Marlin Model 60

[hw3tnt]

Too stiff recoil spring on mod 60 Marlin

My recoil spring is so stiff, it is very very hard to pull the bolt back to eject by hand. Is there a certain amount of pressure that it takes to pull bolt back? I thought of snipping off about 1 inch of the spring to make it easier to recoil. Is that an answer. Thanks H#3

 

[Hugo]

Model 60 feed problem

Hey guys,

I've been fighting this bear since I got my '60, and think I've finally closed in on the problem...

First: My rifle definitely REQUIRES at least a 40 grain projectile; Anything lighter fails to generate enough back-pressure to fully work the bolt, and thereby creates failures to feed...

Second: Extractor Spring MUST be in its slot; No Slot, No Ejection...

Third: The Feed Arm must not interfere with the closing of the bolt; That last one is key...My rifle was experiencing Failures to Eject, Light Strikes, Punctured Cases of rounds that were "next in line" (Still sitting half-way in the feed throat), and overall stiffness when working the bolt.

I cleaned everything, and cleaned it again (going so far as to disassemble the action on numerous occassions); sometimes, this seemed to remedy my problems, but not usually. Finally, upon analysis, I realized that the feed arm seemed to be under too much tension, and was interfering with the operation of the bolt! Looking closer, I found that the arm was canted (relative to the channel in the feedthroat through which it must ride), and was making contact with the feedthroat. This cant was severe enough to cause it to bind due to friction, and not allow the bolt to push it down properly when closing (and causing the bolt to "bite" into the next round); This also created undue friction against the bolt, which caused it to not lock into battery (thereby causing light strikes), and prevented the smooth operation of the bolt during extraction...

So, what was the cause? The Extractor Spring, which also serves to provide tension to the Feed-Arm, was being driven off its post (and into the side of the Feed-Arm, thereby causing it to cant...) by the Sear-Spring!

The Non-Sear end of the Sear-Spring uses the Extractor-Spring mounting post as a stop and, when placed BESIDE the Extractor-Spring, would force the Extractor-Spring OFF its post! This also caused the end of the hook of the Extractor-Spring where it went under the Feed-Arm and "Last-Shot Hold-Open Lever" to rub against the inside of the action, but not enough to hinder the function...

The Cure? By placing the end of the Sear-Spring ON the coils of the Extractor-Spring (For me, 1 coil was enough), it stopped driving the Extractor-Spring from its post; and, I believe, actually helps to retain proper positioning!

The results? Fun, Flawless, Functioning!!!

I apologize for my wordiness, but I wanted to try to be concise...I hope it helps...

 

[Smaug]

Just bought a used 60.

I too, had the opposite experience to L_Kilkenny. My new 10/22 was junk; wouldn't feed anything reliably, and wasn't notably accurate either. After two trips back to Ruger, it finally was OK. But I was pretty disgusted by that time, so I sold it. I do understand that my 10/22 was the exception, not the rule. Rugers are usually pretty solid; I love my other Rugers.

Bought a used Ruger 77/22; fantastic gun. Easily twice as accurate as a stock 10/22.

Yesterday, I bought a Marlin 60W. Scoured here, google, and THR and found some good info. Big Shrek: great post, thanks for the info. I'll keep it in mind. I fired 5 rounds through it, and one of them stovepiped. The gun looks pretty clean inside, the round was Federal bulk HV. I'll check that wire when I have it apart to do the once-over. Hopefully, I'll be able to take it out to the range Sunday and give it a good work-out.

So far, I'm impressed with the slim and trim lines, and great handling characteristics of this gun compared to the 10/22. The only thing I think I miss on the 10/22 is the proper drilled & tapped scope mount holes in the receiver, instead of the cheezy clamp groove of the 60.

 

[BFR 475]

The only problems I ever had with my model 60 was a brick of bad Remington Thunderbolt ammo that jammed in all my 22s and when my trigger guard was cracked. The cracked trigger guard allowed it to fire the first shot, then jam each shot after that. Otherwise mine has performed flawlessly for years and many thousands of rounds.

 

[Marco Califo]

Marlin 60 question: Look familiar?

The last two times I shot my Marlin 60, it ended with a round jammed as in the picture below. That particular round does look like a Rem Sub Sonic, or Thunderbolt, both of which cycle it. When at the range and the gun is assembled, this is deep inside as you look into the receiver, back from the magazine tube, but the round did not feed into the chamber. When this happened, both times the bolt would not stay open. With the gun disassembled, I had to pry the round out of where it is shown. I also noticed a lot of fouling after not too much shooting. Most of the rounds were Rem Yellow Jackets. That photo is at time of disassembly, and yes, I cleaned it after that photo.