Manufacturing your own press

I'm a machinist.I have access to machine tools .
I can chucka piece of round stock,turm it down,cut six flats to make a hex,and single point threads to the specs in a machinery handbook.I can make a bolt.
Its not what I choose to do with my time,because I can get a grade 8 bolt at the NAPA store.
But if I need a special bolt,drilled and tapped for a grease zerk,with holes drilled for grease ports .. I might make what I cannot buy.

So,I am interested in the "Why?" of making a press,given what is available.

Its pretty tough to pay for the steel billet to machine what someone else is making from castings. Cutters are expensive,and time is money.

You MIGHT make an ultimate press with a jig borer,Thompson linear shafting and bearings,or a punch press die base.But you won't save any money.

I agree with Uncle Nick (that always easy!) However you get co-axial ammo ,its the co-axial ammo you want.
How do you know you have co-axial ammo?? You see,ideas and experiments need to be measured...or you don't learn anything.

So,first build,or buy,a fixture with a dial indicator to check ammo runout.

Then try raising your ram on a store bought press to put an end load on your die before setting the lock ring.An O-ring under the lock ring is another trick.

What happens when you set a part in a vee block? It tries to center.Same with a center drill and lathe center,right?

Aren't threads sort of a spiraled 120 degree Vee,or cone? With an end load,threads are tapered surfaces that will find center. The die lock ring competes,and can throw things cockeyed,like an unsquare receiver face.The O-ring lets the threads be the master.The lock ring maintains a preload on the treads in the same direction press force is applied.

Nothing personal,Jeephammer,but the idea of putting the lock ring on from below probably puts the lock ring on a surface that,if it is not rough cast,was not machined in the same setup as the threads and ram bore.
And it preloads the threads in the direction of the slack.Will the ram force overcome the lock ring pre-load?

Consider and try all the theory,then measure the results with a dial indivator in your ammo co-ax fixture.

as Uncle Nick said,the Bonanza system relies on float. It works.

Collet sizing works.

There is more than one way.

Are you competing bench rest or deer hunting? Or plinking at cans?
When is ammo good enough? If extra hours at the press get your groups 1/4 MOA smaller,great!! If you are a benchrest competitor.
Or,in the same time,you might load 200 more "pretty darn good" rounds.
Then you can go SHOOT!
And maybe the practice will make YOU a 1/2 MOA better shooter.

Or you can make a reloading press.
 
He built his own equipment because there was no equipment available,

I have done that lots of times myself but I own more than a dozen presses and have owned dozens of others in the past. There is no shortage of different designs and new ones are comming out on a regular basis.

There is a lot of verbiage about alignment, I have never seen or read anything about how to accomplish it..

That would be the easy part take the Op’s hypothetical 2” plate and stand it up on end. Now drill a 13/16 hole all the way through. While it’s still sitting there run a 7/8-14 tap in the top inch or so. Now lay it flat and mill out however large a window you want in the “O” shape. Now you have a 7/8-14 tapped hole that is also the same hole as the bottom 13/16 hole you can have a ram run up and down through.

Here is a version done that way but they just milled a pocket instead of a hole would make it more solid but it’s also not something I would worry about if using 2” steel plate, a good idea with the aluminum though.

vittoriopressx350.jpg


Just costs more and takes a lot longer than doing essentially the same thing in a casting like everyone else does.

For the OP, Google “homemade reloading presses” and click on the “images” tab, ou are sure to find inspiration in the photos.

Like this one.

HandmadeReloadingPress.jpg
 
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I have done that lots of times myself but I own more than a dozen presses and have owned dozens of others in the past. There is no shortage of different designs and new ones are comming out on a regular basis.

I never understood the reason for the need for a one way trip to Germany in a striped down B17 with a three man crew but they did it. The reloader that built the hydraulic press lost an arm, again, the press he built is one of the most magnificent presses I have ever seen. To see it the owner had to open the cabinet doors, to watch it run I crawled under the cabinet and instructed the owner to turn it on and start sizing cases.

We (the US )were making round trips to Berlin on a daily bases in Spitfires we got from England. The crewman/shooter/reloader was the camera operator in the B17.

F. Guffey
 
jmorris- Just costs more and takes a lot longer than doing essentially the same thing in a casting like everyone else does.

quoted for truth.

Take a look at a case sitting in a case holder, wiggle it. Then take a FL sized case, lube it, then slide it up in a FL die. Not too far or it will stick but just before it does wiggle it. Could that case be aligned in that die any more precisely than you just did with your fingers ? That case holder has slop for a reason, it is to allow the case to align to the die

There are some bragging quality press' available and if I had access to a full machine shop and some stainless I am confident I could build one that would make jaws drop. That does not change the fact it would not do any better a job at loading regular ammo than a $80 dollar Lee

If you really want a bragging rights press get one of these and some Wilson chamber dies

http://www.cowboysew.com/product8a.htm
 
jmorris- Just costs more and takes a lot longer than doing essentially the same thing in a casting like everyone else does.

The builder of the hydraulic press was not like everyone else, he had one arm. Again, he started modifying existing presses, he rendered all of them scrap. To reload he had to start over with a new press that did not exist.

F. Guffey
 
Could that case be aligned in that die any more precisely than you just did with your fingers ? That case holder has slop for a reason, it is to allow the case to align to the die

I am the only reloader that has noticed the RCBS Rock Chucker ram kicks forward at the top and back at the bottom when the ram is raised because the toggle hits the linkage. When it comes to alignment the Rock Chucker would not align if it was not for the case; the case aligns the ram with the die. We could go all the way back to me claiming my favorite shell holder is the RCBS shell holder because it fits like a hand-me-down shirt; it only fits where it touches.

As sure as there is an advantage to loose shell holders there are advantages to shell holders that fit. My shell holders that fit were designed for cam over presses, that is one advantage and then there are other advantages.

F. Guffey
 
I am the only reloader that has noticed the RCBS Rock Chucker ram kicks forward at the top and back at the bottom

you must have the only Rock Chucker in the world that has enough slop in his press to allow lateral movement of the ram movement then. My ram is a slide fit and the only movement on my ram is vertically not laterally. All the lateral movement occurs with the movement of the rim and base of the case within the case holder while the case is aligning itself to the die. The die also has no lateral movement either, just a by the way.

Any forward or backward kick or cam over you think you see or feel is the in the linkage
 
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I have three Rock Chuckers, I have had a total of 5. One I modified one Rock Chucker with clearance between the toggle and linkage, it was one smooth running press.

And then there was the day at Cabalas when a reloader made a video of the Rock Chucker being put thorough its paces. The video was shot from the top of the press without a die installed. On the Internet it almost turned into a mob scene; it was the Chinese this and Chinese that and RCBS selling American jobs. It was an ugly scene.

I was the only reloader that stated I have 4 Rock Chuckers that were made in the USA that have linkages that get tangled up and go into a bind when the ram is raised without a case in the shell holder to keep it aligned.

I will tell you it is not easy to get a reloader away from the key board when it comes to checking the bottom of a press. I can only guess they are afraid they will smash their little fingers.

F. Guffey
 
I seriously doubt anyone will ever wear the bore enough to where it would be problematic and as I have demonstrated it would not matter a whit if you have 1/10 an inch of slop as long as the ram does it's thing and pushes the case into the die when you operate it
 
There is going to be two, maybe three guys understand this...

The longer the ram support block the better it will guide the ram.
Common bearings will allow ram to misalign, bushings often wear fairly quickly.
It takes a press pin bearing that preloads to keep slop out of the ram, and they aren't cheap, and it takes experence to install one correctly.

Build the frame before your drill for alignment!
Doesn't matter how much bolting, riveting, welding or whatever, once the frame is solid, then bore ram & die holes in a straight line, directly through.
Warpage doesn't matter when the bores aren't there to misalign yet...
If you want a truly aligned set, then they have to be bored on a lathe, honed/lapped to finish size.

No, you don't spin the frame, you mount your frame on lathe cradle and use a boring bar between centers. This allows you to support the boring bar.

*IF* you had a long enough reamer, you could skip the lathe/flying boring bar, but that would take one LONG reamer!

To keep brass from moving around, and to keep the head flush/square with the ram, use a collet to clamp the brass in place.
Collets nearly perfectly center the brass with the die, hold the brass head in place so it doesn't get cocked off center and bend the brass/head.
There is also no issues with pulling the rim off the brass since a collet is virtually 100% contact with the available rim material.

I'm sure there are other ways to make an 'O' frame press yourself, this is what I came up with for nearly perfect alignment, the collet kept the slop out you get with a common shell holder...
 
Collets nearly perfectly center the brass with the die, hold the brass head in place so it doesn't get cocked off center and bend the brass/head.

You are missing a important point JH

If you were to lock the case in place with no wiggle movement the case would have to be perfectly aligned with the die to enter. With a locked in place case a offset of .001 would damage the case. Now take that case and put it in a case holder that allows 1/10 th of a inch of movement laterally and you can use a hammer to force it into a sizing die and it will be ok. Of course getting it out again could be a problem.

Once the mouth of the case enters the die the movement of the case in the case holder is what the brass uses to center itself to the die. The ram simply supplies the force to get the case in and out
 
If you want a truly aligned set, then they have to be bored on a lathe, honed/lapped to finish size.

No, you don't spin the frame, you mount your frame on lathe cradle and use a boring bar between centers. This allows you to support the boring bar.

*IF* you had a long enough reamer, you could skip the lathe/flying boring bar, but that would take one LONG reamer!

It’s called a king pin reamer.

{Edit: Removed copyrighted material. See board policy on how to post copyrighted material}


They have been around longer than we have. They are used to ream two separated and undersize holes so they don’t have any slop and a ground king pin can be installed. Cars and trucks have been using these since they were invented.

You are already located on the other end before you cut the bore on the near side and are still located on the near side when you finish the far side.

kingpin1.JPG
 
*IF* you had a long enough reamer, you could skip the lathe/flying boring bar, but that would take one LONG reamer!

If the king pin has been allowed to get into the steering knuckle a bushing with a larger diameter is required. The reamer pictured was used to ream the bushings to fit the king pin.

And to remove the king pin from the end of the axle heat was required and or a press. Some pounded on the end of the king pin and then there were those that were persistent; they pounded on both ends of the king pin thinking they started to remove it from the wrong end..

That is the reason I would knurl and then ream, I have always favored knurling because of the threaded rings, the rings are a good place for grease to hide.

F. Guffey
 
I have rebuilt around a bazillion Formula Vee’s and have always used new bronze bushings and then reamed to fit the king pin.

Knurling was always looked at as “shade tree” because instead of getting a precision fit, you are taking a sloppy fit and roughing up the ID of a hole to reduce the gap between the OD of another part.

Valve to valve guide clearance was/is also done this way. One of those things one might do low buck or maybe to sell and pass the problem on to another.

If a knurled surface was ideal they would start with is vs resort to it.
 
JeepHammer wrote:
I have a customer sitting on a $3 million machine no one makes the control computer for anymore and it's 6 years old...
It's $300 worth of scrap now, been looking for a control computer for almost a year!

I attended a seminar back in 1983 which concerned using general purpose desktop computers (at that time a Commodore VIC-20) to replace custom hardware and programmable logic controllers (PLCs). Could you do something similar? Using a generic PC with an appropriate interface card and programmed in Visual Basic for Applications?
 
JeepHammer wrote:
Hdwhit, I try to tell people that, but everyone wants light weight 'Wonder Materials' and CNC controls now...
You don't need aerospace materials or computer control to stamp rivets or bend brass, and when I tell them common materials are heavier, and the machine *Should* be a little overbuilt they scoff...

Once someone bolts it down to their bench it's unlikely a press is going anywhere. And if it does move, it probably won't be a long distance, so I believe - to paraphrase Barbara Streisand - "Cast Iron is Never Having to Get Another Press".
 
JeepHammer wrote:
The two types of presses I can't recommend, open side 'C' press, or a true 'Turret' press.
Guys with the big, old, heavy built true turret presses defend them to the death, but I've never seen one I couldn't walk up to and wobble the turret, and mounted on a center pin, angles the die away from centerline of the ram.
I've never seen one you couldn't wobble the ram sideways in the guide hole, which allows ram to deflect off centerline of the die.

I agree. Thank you for putting it so clearly and concisely.
 
I seriously doubt anyone will ever wear the bore enough to where it would be problematic and as I have demonstrated it would not matter a whit if you have 1/10 an inch of slop as long as the ram does it's thing and pushes the case into the die when you operate it

I meant to say if not for the case alignment on the Rock Chucker there would be no alignment; WAIT! I did say that. I also said the ram is kicked forward at the top and back at the bottom. For me? That has never been a problem and it did not take me long to figure the Rock Chucker does not cam over. When adjusting the die in the Rock Chucker to the shell holder I apply the instructions for the non cam over press.

F. Guffey
 
To knurl or not to knurl? I said I like the ideal of knurling, after reaming the spiral knurl is still there, at the bottom of the valve guide is a vacuum. There is not much that can be done with the vacuum, I like the ideal of the knurl holding and slowing down the flow if oil down the guide.

And I know, shut the oil off with improved seals; back to the ideal of the knurl, a little bit of oil reduces guide ware.

F. Guffey
 
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