lowering the hammer down?

Wow . . . I didn't know that this was such a difficult procedure . . :eek:

Kind of reminds me when my doctor told me not to pick up heavy objects and do a lot of bending over when setting them down . . . he told me to set them on something higher, not the floor. I follow his directions . . . I had to move a 100 pound anvil int he shop . . pick it off the floor where it was sitting and move it the length of the shop. I carefully picked it up and carried it the length of the shop but then realized I had nothing higher than the floor level to set it down on. I had to put it back down on the floor and go get a heavy wood crate. Once I had the crate in place, I could easily bend over, pick the anvil up off the floor and set it on the crate so I cold follow my doctor's directions. Are you confused yet? :roll eyes:

A valid question from the OP who may or may not be experienced with revolvers . . and everybody is new at one time and has to learn. But the placement of appendages or pencils under the hammer is IMHO more dangerous than learning how to do it right from the get go. Driftwood John illustrates it well. Unload your revolver and "practice". Why complicate the obvious?
 
Wow . . . I didn't know that this was such a difficult procedure . .
Click to expand...
Its not. Its also not a single answer either. The old SA's are different than the newer guns with transfer bars, and the DA's with the same. In those cases, you dont want to keep holding the trigger as you lower the hammer.
 
I learned the way gyvel describes.
Never had an ND or AD that way.
Still use that method on those hot sweaty or cold stiff days.
But mostly I just hold on to the hammer and slowly let it down.
Or just shoot the gun dry. :)
 
DJ and D.Pris,
I'm afraid it's a "new world" out there. What has worked since Colt showed us what a revolver is, apparently isn't good enough without adding complexity. I do "it" the "old" way as well and have never ever had a problem (in fact I do it daily in the shop when testing ,after a service, to verify ignition!). In fact, its such a normal procedure, I don't give it a second thought.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

BTW, my wife's D.A. .38/spl. is treated the same way and likewise, never a problem. When you let the trigger go after the hammer is down, the transfer bar rises and backs the hammer away, just as it was designed to.
 
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When you let the trigger go after the hammer is down, the transfer bar rises and backs the hammer away, just as it was designed to.
Click to expand...
Isnt the transfer bar there as a safety, to keep the hammer off the primer/firing pin in the first place, especially if its inadvertently dropped?

If you keep the trigger pulled while you lower the hammer, youre disengaging that safety feature, allowing for a problem, if the hammer should slip. If you trip the trigger while holding the hammer, and then release it, it cant fire, even if you intentionally let the hammer fly.
 
FWIW, I am happy this question came up, and also to read the various methods and ideas here. Although I have thousands of rounds through my K/L frame Smiths, I recently purchased a shrouded hammer/humpback 638 for CC, and lowering that hammer is clearly NOT as secure as it is with fully exposed hammer. While I wouldn't call it dangerous, one certainly needs to be more careful with the smaller contact point on the humpbacks.

I also have always done it the old way. By first pulling back on the hammer (before pulling the trigger) you assure that your thumb has a good grip of the hammer, AND is used to the spring tension.

Just on first impressions, releasing the trigger while the hammer is being lowered under tension feels a little tricky (two points of concentration vs one), and blocking the hammer with a finger doesn't work if you like to cock/de-cock with your support hand. However, I would like to practice both more and decide.

Very happy to learn the transfer bar testing methods though, I switched to a revolver for AIWB CC, since I could never get comfortable with chambered/"half-cocked" semi there. Note that you don't even need a pen/pencil - the firing pin is clearly visible from the side, and at any angle, so you take away any potential gravity differences in operation.
 
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Gyvel,
I haven't inserted any sarcasm, no need for any.

As we've said- we believe simple is best.
It doesn't have to be overly complicated, and the more steps, devices, and actions you put into lowering that hammer, the more you actually reduce safety, not increase it.

Lowering the hammer in a controlled manner with trigger held back and muzzle in safe direction works equally well from any type of revolver through any type of pistol through lever-action rifles and any rifle (pump, breaktop, etc) that has an external hammer.

It's easy, simple, quick, involves no fumbling. You're welcome to your opinion, and to do whatever you like with your own guns.

For those of us who find it safer to just get the hammer down with the least fuss & risk, it's control hammer, keep trigger back, and lower hammer.

I watched a father try to teach that hammer/trigger let-off coordination thing to his 10-year-old son on a rabbit hunt with a .22 levergun once.
With a notable addition of complexity, a notable lack of success, and a notable level of frustration for the boy.

Father & son both intelligent people.
Father meant well.
Son had a problem in releasing the trigger AND concentrating on hanging onto the hammer.

Extending that trigger release across all models of guns involves the necessity of figuring out how to hold each gun, where to let the different trigger types go, and so on.

Control, pull, lower hammer, can be done one-handed from a natural firing position on most "hammer" guns of most types.

Easily transferable from gun to gun to gun.
No fumbling, no need for a two-handed operation, no split concentration between hammer, trigger, thumb/pencil between hammer & frame.
Very basic, very simple.
Just get it done.

If you prefer your way, no need to ridicule those who don't.
Denis
 
So... Smith and Wesson says to put your thumb between the hammer and the frame and in big red print to take your finger off the trigger as you lower the hammer!!!

I think thats advice to listen to over all the other internet BS
 
Sharkbite,
That's why I don't own any S&Ws!! (LOL!) Seems like lawyer speak. The "old " way is universal (as D.Pris pointed out).
I've never "accidentally" dropped a hammer while decocking. Further more, if one has trouble doing it "simply" as described, I would question the wisdom of that individual handling a weapon in the first place! (Not around me anyway!!)

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

PS, the "b.s." comment isnt needed. Especially where ignorance seems to be rampant!
 
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Advice from a gunmaker in such areas is frequently motivated more by the Legal Department than the Practical Department.

How many owner's manuals have you seen that tell you never to load a gun/chamber a round till you're ready to shoot it, or some variation thereof? :)

Sharkbite,
You do it your way.
I'll do it mine.
The original poster can choose what comfort level makes him feel best between the two.
Denis
 
"...Some of you guys are overthinking this..." Yep.
"...Son had a problem..." Biggest one being 10 and likely not with strong enough hands. Two hands is sometimes best. Two brains is rarely. Pop should have left the kid alone to figure it out with a bit of guidance.
Smith and Wesson says they don't want to get sued, so put your finger under the hammer.
"...a hole through the wall or into your neighbors apartment..." Apartment buildings consist of a bunch of hollow reinforced concrete blocks. Only way out is through the door or windows. And you shouldn't be playing with loaded guns in the house in the first place.
 
Here's what we were taught at the academy:

1) Finger off the trigger (and on the frame).
2) Thumb of non-dominant hand goes between frame and hammer.
3) Place the dominant hand thumb on the hammer.
4) Press the trigger (and let off the trigger when the dominant hand thumb feels the hammer surge forward).
5) With the dominant hand thumb, ease the hammer forward while the non-dominant hand thumb is slowly withdrawn.

Cold Steel. That's an interesting story you posted. LAPD and perhaps a few other agencies ground off the single-action notch on their revolvers. This compelled everyone to use DA only.
 
I can't recall 'em addressing that at the Academy.
Or in the AF with our Smith 15s.
Probably thought we could figure it out on our own. :)
Denis
 
Here's what we were taught at the academy:

1) Finger off the trigger (and on the frame).
2) Thumb of non-dominant hand goes between frame and hammer.
3) Place the dominant hand thumb on the hammer.
4) Press the trigger (and let off the trigger when the dominant hand thumb feels the hammer surge forward).
5) With the dominant hand thumb, ease the hammer forward while the non-dominant hand thumb is slowly withdrawn.
Click to expand...

Yep...same here.

Puts a physical block (your thumb)in the way AND makes use of the internal hammer block as the thumb is withdrawn.
 
Yeah, the pinky or pencil must be removed at some point. The point at which the hammer has already traveled more than half way. It is going to have a lot less energy if mistakenly dropped that last bit. On a modern double action you can be sure the trigger is released and the safety measures re-engaged before removing.

Back in the day doctors and dentists didn't wear gloves. I've met a lot of old doctors and dentists who didn't have hepatitis or HIV. They are just wasting time wearing them these days. They can get slippery and cause a needle stick anyways. Because just because not everyone died doing it the old way we should keep on doing it that way.
 
Point being, that is useless for conventional S.A.s. That being the case, if you use common sense and the "normal" conventional method, there still is less to do, less to think about, less motor skills being involved to enhance a possibility of an accident, . . . . the "old " method still works. Besides, if you're one handed, you're sol with the "academy" way!! The old way works!!!
Oh yeah, some of us didn't go to the "academy". Hmmmm.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
After all that I sure ain't going to ask about lowering the hammer on any of my Lever action rifles. :rolleyes: Many of you make a simple job hard. I lowered hammers on 1911 for many years be for the L&C became the ONLY way to carry a 1911
 
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