Lets talk patches

A patch cutter that works really well is one of these punches. I modified it by sawing off the long shank and then center punching, drilling, and tapping it for a short 5/16 x 18 hex head screw. Now I can chuck a 1/2 inch socket into my electric drill and cut out enough patches in an hour to last me all year.

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I tried pre-cut patches one time and really never cared for them.

Everybody prepares their patching differently and of course, you have to find what works best with our rifle. In my rifles and even in my smoothbore Fusil, I've always used pillow ticking.

If you go to a material (yard goods store) you want to be sure that the material you are buying is a "natural" material - cotton or linen. We all know where cotton comes from - linen is woven from spun flax. When you buy yard goods, the majority of cotton is "sized". This allows the material to look like it is pressed and very neat. I found that with any material, you should wash it first to remove the "sizing". Check the end of the bolt for what the material is as well. It should say 100 % cotton or 100 % linen, etc. If someone gives you material and you aren't sure - take a small cutting and give it the "flame test" with a kitchen match. If it contains any polyester, etc. - it will usually "drip" and you'll be able to tell that it isn't 100 % natural.

Over the years, I've tried a wide variety of patch lubricants. Anything from Crisco to tallow to bacon grease. Quite a few years ago, there was a guy advertising in Muzzle Blasts where you could send $ and he would send you his "secret" to patches and lubricant which would improve your shooting scores. My brother and I sent for the info and it was well worth the money. His secret was the use of a water soluble oil that you diluted and soaked your patching material in. After trying it, we found that it worked great. It helped cut down on fouling and it had enough lubricant to easily get the ball down the barrel. Our groups tightened up. I washed my pillow ticking to remove the sizing, cut it into strips that were about a yard long and soaked it in the solution. I'd pull the ticking through my fingers to "wring" it out and then set it in the sun to dry. After it was dry, I'd roll it up and I'd store each roll in the little plastic container that 35mm film used to come in. The last batch I made, I think I used up around 3 or 4 yards of 60" ticking - I still have a bunch of it at home.

Everyone has to work their own system out as far as what work for them. I always keep a strip of the lubricated ticking tied to the strap of my hunting pouch along with a plain, washed strip that I can cut a quick square off of to use as a spit patch between shots. Of course to do it this way, you have to use a short starter to seat the ball and patching material just under the end of the muzzle and then use a patch knife to cut it.

I don't have the name of the water soluble oil with me here in AZ but if you check with an automotive supplier they should be able to help you out. We got it at the NAPA store and a quart of it wasn't that expensive. We mixed it with the water and then kept it stored in an old milk jug for the next time we needed to make patches. It's just another option to give a try.
 
I've been using the Napa cutting oil and water for lube. Works good.

It's a water soluble oil, so it does mix well with water. It's in a blue plastic bottle. 1 pint is about $8 with tax. I'm using a mix ratio of 15% oil and 85% water.

A lot of the guys at the local club are using cheap window cleaner as a cleaning agent. They keep 3 or 4 oz in a spray bottle and mist a cleaning patch. Then swab the barrel with it every few shots. They say it helps clean some of the fouling between shots. I bought some and a spray bottle but have not had a chance to go shooting and try it out yet.
 
That guy in Muzzle Blasts was Dutch Schoultz and what he sold was his system for shooting a muzzle loading rifle accurately. He still sells it from a web site: Black Powder Rifle Accuracy System.

Dutch is now in his 80's and doesn't shoot any more. Selling this is his only income besides social security. It's the best $20 I've ever spent on black powder stuff without question.

BTW, he now recommends Ballistol instead of the cutting oil.
 
[QUOTEPatches cut at the muzzle are always better.
][/QUOTE]

Could you explain how this is done. I'm guessing you cut a square patch and seat the ball with the short starter, then trim the excess?? Is this right?
 
The ball is started and then the excess patching is cut flush at the muzzle with a patch knife.
Folks often use strips of patch material that have been pre-lubed so there's some excess to hold on to in for cutting it.
 
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I use a long strip and seat the ball flush with the muzzle so there's no overlap. You don't want patch material coming over the front of the ball.
 
Like Hawg I use a long strip of patch material (pillow ticking, cut into strips 1 1/4" wide, soaked with 1:6 ratio of Ballistol to water and dried); lay the end of the strip across the muzzle, set the ball on top of the material and start it into the muzzle with my thumb, use a ball starter to push it in until it's flush with the muzzle, hold the strip tight and cut across the muzzle with a very sharp patch knife. I then use the ball starter to ram it down a couple of inches and finish with a solid brass range rod.

Never thought about excess patch material in front of the ball. Seems to me it would get pushed out of the way. But, as Hawg said, seating the ball flush with the end and cutting across the muzzle pretty much cleans it up anyway.
 
Another very popular patch material is #40 Drill Cloth which is sold at JoAnn's Fabrics.
Not to resurrect a dead string, but this was very helpful to me tonight. I was in JoAnn Fabrics looking to buy fabric for patches. I asked about the #40 Drill Cloth and they had never heard of it. They looked it up on their computer and it turned out they had a bunch in stock (and on sale at 50% off).
Thanks for the info.
 
Been using a Murphy's oil soap/Windex mix for many years, both for lubing patches and cleaning. It's always done a good job for me. I lube the patches with a mist as I load the firearm and seating the balls sort of scrubs some of the fouling loose as it goes down the barrel. I shoot complete matches without scrubbing the bore....with good results.
 
I'd seen guys at matches literally "soak" their patch w/ the spray bottle, but your idea of 'misting' sounds more my damp spit-patch regimen
Might try it....;)

Any particular ratio of Murphy's/Windex ? (ordinarily I'd stick with my standard 7:1 ratio water/cutting oil)
 
If you take a large bottle of Windex and mix about a cup of Murphy's in it, you will have a pretty long term supply. I keep some small misting type bottles to carry to the range with me, and an even smaller one to take in my hunting bag. The wife saves me stuff like the bottles that eyeglass cleaner comes in and things like that. I soak down some patches with it after a shooting session and clean the bore with them.....never have had a problem with this system.
 
patches & .32 caliber

I got so sick and tired of dorking with ball size and varying patch material thickness, and so-so accuracy, that I tried some vintage FACTORY .32 Maxiball in my CVA Squirrel rifle. Acurracy was at least as good as my best attempts with PRB and so.....

Track of the Wolf was glad to sell me a Lee .32 maxiball mold, yes they were.
 
Berger's twist calculator comes up w/ an SG=.307 for the 32 Maxi@2,000 (unstable as all get-out)
What the heck, I ordered one last night just for fun.

Columbus took a chance.....
;):rolleyes:
 
Maxi Balls stabilized just fine in my 1:48 .45 TC. They just didn't group well until I reached maximum loads in that gun, then they were tack drivers.
Maybe that's why they are called "Maxi-Balls".

They also worked quite well in my Ruger Old Army. I could carry them pre-greased and wrapped in Saran Wrap in my pocket, rolled around the bullet and twisted shut like Tootsie Roll candies. When loading, I just squeezed them out of the wrapper.
 
Maxi's worked well in my .50 Investarms Hawken with 1:48 twist and I used them for years til I made the switch to round balls. I've got a .50 CVA St. Louis Hawken that was loaded with one for at least 12 years when I got it. I shot it out but wasn't really aiming at anything so don't know how well it shoots them. I've only shot it that one time.
 
Been using a Murphy's oil soap/Windex mix for many years, both for lubing patches and cleaning. It's always done a good job for me. I lube the patches with a mist as I load the firearm and seating the balls sort of scrubs some of the fouling loose as it goes down the barrel. I shoot complete matches without scrubbing the bore....with good results.
Do you think this would work with Windex and Castor Oil? Just wondering because I read a few threads where the Murphy's leaves a bit if residue that builds up over time but, more to the point, I have Windex and Castor Oil in the house.
Thanks.
 
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