Lee Autodisk question

I've never been a big fan of volumetric powder dispensing so after dealing with inconsistent drops from my Lee PAD for years, I finally convinced myself to spring for a Chargemaster. Best decision I ever made. Now every charge is dispensed by weight to 0.1 gr, taking out the guesswork and making for much less stressful reloading sessions.
 
I've never been a big fan of volumetric powder dispensing so after dealing with inconsistent drops from my Lee PAD for years, I finally convinced myself to spring for a Chargemaster. Best decision I ever made. Now every charge is dispensed by weight to 0.1 gr, taking out the guesswork and making for much less stressful reloading sessions.

Now if you can get that huge machine to mount on top of the lee turret, Hornady LNL, or any of the Dillons, you'd really have something. Measuring to the e nth degree off the press allows for the chance to forget to charge a shell, or double charge.

Now it's time for the thread to take a left turn, lets talk about volume versus measured powder charges.

Perhaps tcoz has tested thrown charges against perfectly weighed charges by shooting both. Then found out the weighed charges shot better. In order for myself to be convinced weighed charges were better , I would have to shoot over a chrono, AND at a target at least 100 yards away. Further would be better.

Bench rest shooters don't weigh charges. They throw them with some very accurate measures that are real close to what they want. Their highly tuned rifles are the key, along with custom made, hand swagged bullets.
 
Lately, I have had a great deal of difficulty with the adjustable charge bar. Sometimes even with the disks. Too many squib loads to be comfortable. On many loads, I have taken to charging with the Lee Perfect. I know that this turns the turret press into a single stage press, but assurance of suitable charges tops all other considerations.
willr
 
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Here's my initial mod. First, yes, I made an ugly mess outta the charge bar. Second, but it works. It throws consistent charges of Bullseye down to 3.2 grains. I cycled about fifty times to confirm. No deviation whatsoever! Third, I need to reduce the radius of the JB weld so I can try it with smaller drops. I went a little farther in than the guy who posted the pic I copied this mod from. His would not have centered the cavity as well under the hopper hole. I will update once I trim the radius and try the smaller charges...
 
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consistent.JPG


Okay, that little revision to the radius worked out well. I have achieved consistency with Bullseye down to 1.9 grains (at minimum cavity setting). Now if only I could find a recipe that called for 1.9 grains.... :cool:
 
Snuffy...
I didn't say anything about weighed charges shooting better than volumetric charges, only that I've never been comfortable with dispensing by volume. Since OP was talking about the Lee Autodisk and my post specifically mentioned that I was tired of inconsistent drops with the same setup, I just assumed that everybody knew I was specifically talking about the Lee system. I'm aware that precision shooters dispense by volume but I'm also aware that they don't use the Lee Auto Disk either. Sorry if I was unclear.
 
My question is, when loaders talk about "working up," does simply going from one to the next Autodisk setting within this range of three qualify, or do I need to be charging my cases without the Autodisk to allow for much smaller increments of increase?

Jumping from step to step is the only thing you can do with the Autodisk.

There are options if that's not acceptable.
  1. Get a micrometer charge bar.
  2. double up with a micro charge disk (now made by Titan Reloading with a 3D printer).
  3. get a case actuated linkage die and use a standard barrel type powder measure. they tend to cost more than the whole pro autodisk.
  4. wait for lee to bring out their micro adjust powder measure that integrates with their belling die. this summer some time is what I read somewhere.
  5. modify one of the cavities of your existing disk with a set screw, to change the amount of powder it throws.
 
I did the same mod to my Lee ACB as shown by Frankly. It works like a charm. I can get down to 2.0 grains with it now and it is extremely consistent One thing to keep in mind though is that this will decrease the max amount that the charge bar will drop and of course the graduation scale will not coincide with the Lee's VMD calculations after the modification.
 
ACB: I have two ACBs and two Pro Auto-Disks and one old Auto-disk. In NO CASE does the drop tube on the measure match up to the cavity in the ACB with any measure or any of the ACBs until the ACB is almost all the way open.
Maybe yours is different than mine, but there is only one way to install the ACB and it puts the cavity quite a bit forward of the drop "tube" in the measure, so I have to open to around 1.0cc before any powder even falls into the ACB. I look at my measures and ACBs and just wonder how any one can use them.
I go back to my original post--I have never found an accurate load that did not have enough range in charge weight to be accurate using an existing cavity. If one wants to shave the PF for action pistol shooting, in my book, a normal powder measure, or even the PPM, would be a lot less problematic.
I am in awe that some can get the ACB to work.
If I can, attached are some of my pictures, showing installation and how far the powder misses the cavity.
 

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attached are some of my pictures, showing installation and how far the powder misses the cavity.

From your pics, it looks to me like your hopper was on backward. Correct orientation positions the hopper hole farther forward. If you were to put it on backward, it would drop the powder about where your pictures show, I think...
 
I have observed the problem of installing the hopper backwards. However, I still have had problems when I was sure the hopper was installed correctly. Hence, I have resorted to the procedures mentioned above.
willr
 
My hopper was installed correctly.
The hopper is installed so the flat/square side is facing the drop tube so one can visually watch it. Installed the other way, on my measures anyway, does nothing for alignment and only blocks the view of the powder dropping down the drop tube.
In an ideal world, the adjustable cavity would be:
1) directly under the hopper feed hole
and
2) open symmetrically so the cavity stays centered with the feed hole.
#1 should have been a basic design consideration that was NOT met.
 
In an ideal world, the adjustable cavity would be:
1) directly under the hopper feed hole
and
2) open symmetrically so the cavity stays centered with the feed hole.
#1 should have been a basic design consideration that was NOT met.

Agreed. That's why I suggested earlier that Lee could have designed/revised this product to have both fore and aft adjusters. Sad when end users have to re-engineer a product to make it work as intended. Shows a lack of commitment by the manufacturer, who has far greater resources to refine its products...

Anyway, I am playing the hand dealt me. My mod (actually someone else's that I copied) does the trick, but I am now working on an improved mod. Will share when complete.
 
Frankly,

That is a BRILLIANT idea.

Do you want to make it a gift to the community? (make it public domain?)

I believe it could be made into a modification of a standard auto-disk without much difficulty.

It is not too far off from an idea I have had about interchangeable cavities that would not require disassembly of the measure.

Lost Sheep
 
I am tempted to create a crude prototype of my drawing. All one would have to do is cut the fore ends off two charge bars and join them....
 
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Lost Sheep,

I went ahead and built the prototype for the centerable charge bar. Thanks for the gentle nudge.

In case you want to see the pics and read my findings, I submitted a blog piece about it here.
 
I really like the concept though and that is a great way to prototype it.

I would think a better approach down the road would be to have the screw drive the bars in opposite directions with one knob. Then you use one setting on the dial instead of having to worry about both sides. The easiest way would be to move the screw drive to one side and have the bars indexed in different directions being driven by the screw which extends the full length of the assembly.
 
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