Lead, hate the stuff!

I had Single Six that when using the really cheap exposed lead bulk ammo that would get like that---using plated loads fixed the problem

As for cleaning---I sat in front of tv for a long time with a cloth working it off--using your finger nails helps. Good luck
 
I get the same thing on my M57 and it annoys the heck out of me. I use a soft brass brush and soak the gun with either Hoppes or it seems like Balistol works good too. I've also noticed leading just forward of the forcing cone, and when I slugged the barrel I noticed it got real tight just as it reached the forcing cone. I haven't had a gun smith check it yet but I'm guessing the barrel is in very tight and is sqeezing the forcing cone slightly causing it to spit a little lead. I only shoot light lead loads now when I use lead and it is barely noticeable after many rounds and much easier to get off. Mostly I use the Copper plated bullets from Extreme Bullets, in fact they are all I shoot anymore in all my handguns and just like the heck out of them.
 
Why not move to Berry's plated lead bullets? I shoot them in my Glock and see no sign of bore leading.

One of the best things I ever did was start shooting at an indoor range that doesn't allow lead bullets. It forced me to start shooting only slightly more expensive plated bullets. I was downright surprised to see how much easier it was to clean my guns. I'd shot pretty much nothing but lead all my life and I'm no spring chicken. Sure, I knew jacketed or plated were cleaner, but I didn't think they were that much cleaner. I think you'd have to beat me with a stick to get me to go back to plain lead now.

To the OP. Are you sure it's lead and not just the bullet lube and such? That stuff is just as messy as the lead.

And I'll second waxing your guns. I started doing that recently and what's left on the gun pretty much just wipes off with a rag after shooting.
 
Certain, no. But it has happened with several different bullets from different places using different lubes. (type unknown, but blue, green & "clear") They all do it.
Plated is the cure, but when I get free bullets well ya know......
 
I don't consider plated bullets for revolvers (what we're talking about here) because I want the crimp groove definition. Coated bullets are the far better option.

But this is evading the issue of how to clean the outside of the cylinder and what might cause the problem. This gun should have no inherent issues with shooting lead bullets or requiring any workaround in choice of bullets.
 
Evidently since it is not leading the barrel then load and hardness should not be the issue. May be an alignment issue? Did you check top and bottom gap? Even then the idea that it's not on the face or cone is puzzling but I would say possible that alignment can do strange things with lead (or copper for that matter).
I don't consider plated bullets for revolvers (what we're talking about here) because I want the crimp groove definition.
Kind of lost me there. What do you mean by "crimp groove definition"? Do you mean traditional lead crimp groove vs. Copper plated or jacketed?
 
Coated bullets are the far better option.
You mean "coated" as in Powder coated?
I'm going to wait on that till I find out what the long term effects are with that method.

May be an alignment issue? Did you check top and bottom gap?
Can you explain that more I don't quite get your point.
 
I'm going to wait on that till I find out what the long term effects are with that method.
how long do you need? 2k? 5k? 10???? effects on gun, nothing but a shiny bore with a dry dusting. the PITA level increases slightly with standing bullets on e-z bake oven trays.

I don't think I can honestly say I have shot ten thousand through the same firearm. some can, but not me. but my Tri-Star 9mm has at east 5k down it, looks fantastic. I will never be able to go back to bare lead and it's hassles.
 
May be an alignment issue? Did you check top and bottom gap?
Can you explain that more I don't quite get your point.
Check gap with a feeler gauge and If the cylinder is misaligned a difference in gap from side to side or top to bottom will tell it.

Could be a bent yoke, tweaked crane, and if it throws the cylinder off angle from the Barrel it can cause the lead to peel as it the bullet enters the cone.

Also sometimes the cone face is not squared to the barrel as a defect. Not as much a peel effect as a wider gap will cause the gases to escape more from that the rest of the gap and build up can occur.
 
I've been thinking about this a bit more, and I have seen the type of "residue" the OP is talking about. It's only been observed in 22's in my case, shooting plain lead bullets, and I took it to be a result of too soft lead. A switch to plated ammo "fixed" the problem so I had sort of forgotten about it. I've also seen in on the muzzle of 22 rifles.

How to remove it? I don't remember doing anything unusual...a rag and some solvent. I may have gently scraped it off with a pocket knife blade. I may have just left it and time took care of it. It's been a long time since I shot plain lead 22 bullets.
 
Could be a bent yoke, tweaked crane, and if it throws the cylinder off angle from the Barrel it can cause the lead to peel as it the bullet enters the cone.
If that were the case wouldn't jacketed rounds spit?

Check gap with a feeler gauge and If the cylinder is misaligned a difference in gap from side to side or top to bottom will tell it.
Can you explain the measuring with feeler gauges better I can't figure out where to put them to measure barrel misalignment?
 
Kind of lost me there. What do you mean by "crimp groove definition"? Do you mean traditional lead crimp groove vs. Copper plated or jacketed?

I mean bullets with a crimp groove, preferably inexpensive, so I shoot lead and coated lead. If there is such a thing as a plated bullet with a crimp groove, I have yet to find a need for it.
 
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