Lead, hate the stuff!

I had a Dan Wesson in 357 Maximum and never had any problems like yours.
I used a hard cast bullet based on Elmer Keith's 168 grain semi-wadcutter which worked well out to 200 meters on Rams. When I didn't have enough of these cast up I used a gas-checked bullet to reduce any leading caused by hot gases.

I never used jacketed in this firearm. Never had to, shot better than my eyesight.
 
Wogpotter, this thing really has me curious. I'm really wondering where it is coming from (as in which direction). The only way to tell would be to clean the entire cylinder then mark one hole. Use that one chamber only for a range session until you get the buildup and see which side of the forcing cone the buildup is coming from.
 
That's easy, the top. Let me pull the barrel with the TDC marked somehow & see if that reveals anything.
Regarding bullets. This has happened with every lead bullet I've found.

Factory hard-cast 158 Gr SWC @ 950 FPS
146 Gr. Cast WC & 515 FPS
163 gr. Cast RN @ 850 FPS
135 Gr. Cast SWC @ 780 FPS

But never with plated Or jacketed.
 
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<snip>I call it "lead" because it only ever happens if I shoot lead (non jacketed or plated) bullets. It never happens with plated/jacketed loads. Solvents don't touch it, I've tried Hoppes, M-pro-7, Sweets & others all with the same lack of success. It eventually goes away after repeated cleanings (usually 7~10 of them) & it seems to be bullet/lube/powder independent as I always get it with any lead bullet but never with anything else.
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I wonder if the bullets are too hard or too small in diameter and failing to obturate sufficiently to seal the bore, allowing the blow back. I can reach that conclusion more readily with my 327 Federal Magnum gun having the same issue. I am quite aware that I could benefit from gas checks and have purchased some GC bullets.

I would look for how well the bullets pass through the throats.

The remaining question is about the low pressures, if at best achieving only 750 fps. One thing I am doing is switching to small rifle primers even though not shooting high end loads for 327. The correlation would be that you could try harder primers if not already CCI. Also try cleaning brass after depriming to get the best seal of the primers. In other words, maybe its not the gun.
 
For whatever its worth department:

I have recently heard that a product called "Never Dull" works well in removing those deposits. I tried it once and it worked well, only experience so far.

This product is sold in a friction top metal can and is a treated wool like material. Tear off a wad and polish the metal.

I used it ONE time with good results on a blued cylinder with slight deposits.

Bob Wright
 
Bob, I take it you aren't former military. If you were, you'd be intimately familiar with Never Dull. Those who have experienced the joy of endless hours polishing brass belt buckles, etc. will have fond memories of Never Dull. :(
 
Never Dull will work, but it's abrasive. Using it frequently will thin and eventually remove bluing. It is good stuff to have around. I use it frequently in my shop.
 
Doyle:
Bob, I take it you aren't former military. If you were, you'd be intimately familiar with Never Dull. Those who have experienced the joy of endless hours polishing brass belt buckles, etc. will have fond memories of Never Dull.
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I beg to differ with you. I polished a lot of brass, and no, it wasn't harness buckles! But our polish of choice was Brasso, though some preferred the old Blitz Cloth.

As to polishing our sabers..........


Bob Wright
 
LISTEN to Bill Deshivs. I have never seen him give anything but good advice, especially when it comes to finishes.
 
Bob, yes very familiar with Brasso too. Brasso did indeed work great on small stuff like buckles. Where it fell down was on large, heavy pieces of brass exposed to salt air (like ship's bells, Quarter Deck decorations, etc. For that, you really needed the abrasive Never Dull. I don't recall seeing Blitz cloth being used - maybe because the Navy supply system stocked Never Dull so that is what we had.
 
I'm experienced with Brasso as well. Mainly for polishing uniform brasses. I don't think I'm going with anything strongly abrasive. Besides Brasso leaves "the green stuff" that causes NCO's conniption fits of demanding you weed your brass badges.:eek:
 
Back on topic.
If the lead were too soft, too hard (or both?) & undersized wouldn't that lead the bore? I have no lead problems in the bore.:confused:
 
good point, so maybe it's not lead at all......that's my guess anyhow. maybe molten wax lube vapors, mixed with carbons and whatever from non-barrel sealing bullets. but if that were the case, it probably wouldn't be difficul to remove. but I don't think, THINK, you are running fast enough to vaporize that much lead, but I am no expert.
 
wogpotter..l shoot lead cast boolits and get this crud on my cylinder. l don't worry about it on stainless guns but blued guns are another story...The problem wont go away, but you can lessen its effects by WAXING the surface after cleaning your Blued guns. After cleaning take an alchohol pad and remove all grease/oil from surface. Then wax the cylinder and gun with good ole ''Johnsons Paste Wax''..
You will not believe the difference in the lack of effort it takes to wipe the powder/lead residue off that DW after shooting ..


282
 
The gun cleaning mania shows an underlying disconnect with, and fear of, the elements of fire and brimstone that are the physical and spiritual basis of the non-socially subjugated animus of the firearm.
 
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