Latest Rust Blue project: Ruger Speed Six
- Thread starter marklmurray
- Start date
marklmurray
New member
Thanks!
I think I did 6 rustings on this, but it may have only been 5. At about 4, I could have stopped, but went one or two more 'for good measure'.
I did a CZ82 several months earlier and only did 4 on that one. I've had it to the range several times, so there are a couple hundred rounds through it since the refinish and, so far, there is no (zero) wear marks from the recoil spring on the barrel (it's a blowback operated semi - the spring surrounds the entire barrel). No wear anywhere else, either. This gives me a great deal of confidence in the toughness of a rust blue finish.
Of course, the durability and number of rustings necessary may vary greatly depending on the composition of the steel. I think I've been pretty lucky so far. I do try to be as careful as possible (for me). I always use distilled water, and I de-grease after every carding with acetone. One other thing I've taken to doing is heating up the metal (with an old blow dryer) before applying the rusting juice.
I think I did 6 rustings on this, but it may have only been 5. At about 4, I could have stopped, but went one or two more 'for good measure'.
I did a CZ82 several months earlier and only did 4 on that one. I've had it to the range several times, so there are a couple hundred rounds through it since the refinish and, so far, there is no (zero) wear marks from the recoil spring on the barrel (it's a blowback operated semi - the spring surrounds the entire barrel). No wear anywhere else, either. This gives me a great deal of confidence in the toughness of a rust blue finish.
Of course, the durability and number of rustings necessary may vary greatly depending on the composition of the steel. I think I've been pretty lucky so far. I do try to be as careful as possible (for me). I always use distilled water, and I de-grease after every carding with acetone. One other thing I've taken to doing is heating up the metal (with an old blow dryer) before applying the rusting juice.
marklmurray
New member
It's really quite a simple process:
- Take the gun apart
- Strip the old finish
- Clean the metal
- Let the metal rust (with a little help)
- Boil the metal to turn it black
- 'Card' the converted rust (brush off the powdery black stuff)
- Repeat steps 4,5,6 at least 4 times
- Soak the metal in oil for 24 Hrs
- Put the gun back together
For me, the most challenging parts of the process are the diss/re-assembly of the gun. The actual rust bluing is pretty much just waiting, degreasing, and boiling water.
Here are a few good articles to get you more details, but it really isn't much more complicated than that. It's easy, but will take several days (it's why the call it 'slow' rust bluing).
http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Archives/Aug03/HowTo.htm
http://www.finishing.com/4400-4599/4469.shtml
http://powderburns.tripod.com/brown.html
In my opinion, the extra time is really worth it. Rust bluing provides a really tough (for bluing) finish - a good bit tougher than commercially hot salt blued finishes, in my experience.
Good luck to you!
Zhillsauditor
New member
I have heard good things about Loural Mountain Forge's Gun Browning and Degreaser. As it is a degreaser, it is (supposedly) more forgiving of oil contamination. Anyway, I plan on using it, but won't start until I finish up refinishing the wood on a marlin 39m (a couple days now). Even then, I will be polishing the rust out of the old Iver Johnson.
And, since my eyes are always bigger than my stomach, I just bought a Colt 1903 for a follow up project.
marklmurray
New member
I've heard the same about the Laurel Mountain product. I never used it mainly due to cost. Although, thinking about how much acetone, de-natured alcohol, and rubber gloves I've gone through, it's probably at best, a wash.
I love those 1903's and have thought of getting one of those as a project as well. Are you planning to put a high polish on it? It could just be a myth about rust bluing not working as well with highly polished metal, but that's what's always given me pause about re-finishing a Colt - doing it justice with a high polish.
However, the more I do these rust blues, the more I'm convinced that the process imparts much more depth to a 'matte' finish than does regular hot salt bluing.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results of your Iver Johnson and that Colt. Good Luck!
marklmurray
New member
I don't know, as I haven't carried any of the gun's I've rust blued. I can tell you, though, that in the process of researching, it was pretty universally agreed that rust bluing produced the toughest and most wear resistant of all the 'true' blue finishes. Way beyond cold blue, and better than hot salt blue - just slightly south of parkerizing, though.
The CZ82 I did earlier this year, though I don't carry it, has been to the range several times and has had several hundred rounds through it and shows no wear at all - none. It's a straight blowback design, so the recoil spring surrounds the barrel and this is usually the first place that wear occurs on these guns. So far, the barrel is still pristine. Just anecdotal, I know, but it's all the data I have at the moment.
My personal opinion: It will wear as well, if not better than any factory blue finish.
I would tend to agree with this. I had my Security Six bead-blasted and hot blued by a local Smith for $125. No complaints, he did a great job, but it seems to scuff pretty easy. I have a couple scuffs on the barrel that came pretty easy. Not sure how, it only goes to the range.
I want to thank you. A while back I read your post and thought to myself, "I can do that" I did with two revolvers. Both turned out pretty good too. One was an Official Police made in 1932 and the other was a Smith made between 1948 and 1952. Both turned out pretty good! In the beginning they were rusted with deep pitting in places. Not to mention some springs and a bolt were missing. I got them cheap off Gunbroker and thought it would be fun to play with them. They both are now in fine form and shoot just fine although I use some pretty mild loads with them.
Thanks!
Thanks!
marklmurray
New member
That's awesome to hear!
There's nothing like being able turn an old 'beater', that would have otherwise ended up as someones 'truck gun' or sat in a pawn shop, unloved, into a gun that looks and shoots, sometimes, 'better than new'.
Police trade-in's, a C&R license, and Rust Bluing, have been my 'downfall'
leadcounsel
Moderator
I'm inspired!
I just bought a similarly unloved Security six for $300. I had considered paying a professional to refinish it, but may take a stab at it myself.
I just bought a similarly unloved Security six for $300. I had considered paying a professional to refinish it, but may take a stab at it myself.
Pond James Pond
New member
Quite tempting to try on my Astra 680. However, in the rusting phase how do you ensure the bore does not suffer from rusting as well? Surely that would pit the surface. Do you seal it with wax, an oiled rag stuffed in, a rubber bung at each end or something like that?
marklmurray
New member
I don't do anything special at all. I am careful not to get any of the rusting agent in the bore itself, but if any rust did form in there, it would just get converted to black oxide like the rest during the boil. I suppose you could run a brass brush down the bore each time to 'card' any black oxide that formed during the cycle, but I've never heard that it was necessary.
I would also think, that if the bore was chrome lined you'd have even less to worry about.
Oil, grease or wax would come out during the boiling phase and 'contaminate' the water - I have no idea what effect that would have on the conversion of the red rust to black, but you'd definitely have to re-de-grease completely after each cycle.
Thanks to everyone else as well for the latest kind words!
Mark
Pond James Pond
New member
As I understand it, this is a particular type of fluid used: not just a case of dabbing the gun with light salt solution.
I also assume that one could not use something like Tetra Gun bluing solution.
That might be the fly in my ointment: my guess is no one is going to sell rust bluing fluid over here...
I also assume that one could not use something like Tetra Gun bluing solution.
That might be the fly in my ointment: my guess is no one is going to sell rust bluing fluid over here...
marklmurray
New member
As I understand it, the commercial rust bluing solutions are really just mild acidic solutions. I've had good luck with Brownell's classic rust blue and Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown and degreaser.
However, do a little googling and you'll be able to find 'recipes' of rust bluing solutions that other have used with good results. They usually use ingredients like Vinegar, Hydrogen peroxide, and salt - there's really nothing magic - just something that accelerates the formation of rust.
In fact, with the right conditions (humidity), you could probably do it without any solution - it would just make an already slow process a good bit slower.