Labeling reloads

If i'm on the border, I have used "4.1/4.2" and have also used "4.15" to denote the conundrum you are experiencing. In my head 4.15 means it is splitting the difference between 4.1 and 4.2.

Regarding generic labeling I have some boxes that only have a bullet and powder charge listed i.e "H&G 68 4.3 BE" means 45 ACP with a 200 grain H&G 68 SWC with 4.3 grains of Bullseye with an OAL around 1.24 and some type of LPP. On rifle loads I get more specific but for blasting ammo i'm never going to look back and wonder what type of primer was used.
 
When I have a load I use regularly I use the MTM load label, make note of every little thing, cal, bullet, powder, COL, trim length...makes it easier when I want to load the same thing again, just open the box and its all their. when I'm trying something new, I use index cards and make my notes, then add notes from the range test. if it is a new cartage and I'm playing with things I will keep the last card rolled up around a case in the box to compare to the last thing I tried. when running ladders I use a sharpie to mark the case to indicate powder charge, and use different colors with each step up. The corresponding index card will have same colors and charge weight. I also keep a spread sheet with all cartridges, rifles-pistols and things I've tried, and the result.

Recently I got a DYMO labeler (label writer 450) off the CraigList for cheep. its the kind you use to mark file folders or bulk mailers and such. Works great for marking the loads I use regularly. it also has the ability to make barcodes and QR codes that I can scan with my phone. I can link barcodes to my spread sheet (theoretically), and the QR codes can contain all the info you would ever want in a postage stamp size label, can also link them to a HTML page or what ever a guy would want.

my 2cents
 
I had the same situation. I checked several drops to see what the consistency is. If i had drops like you described, I label as: 4.0 +.1-.2 or if I was short then it would labeled as 4.0 +/-.2 for example.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Simplify this, The question is marking the label not making one or what all should be on it.
Click to expand...

Your question was answered several times in this thread . IMHO if you have not read a good enough answer yet . That means you already have an answer in mind and nobody has said it yet .

Now my suggestion is to do what you will best remember . I do this when abbreviating things . It may not be what everybody else does but I understand what it means and that's all that matters . Example ( CHS means to me the distance from head to datum point on a case ) ( Comp is the distance from case head to seated bullet ogive ) ( L-1 or 2 or 40 is times cases were loaded )

Do what you will understand and is repeatable . If your target load is 4.1gr and every charge is under 4.2gr It's pretty obvious what charge weight you should put IMO
 
Hey guy that was not to be mean . There were/are multiple posts with very good suggestions . The fact you had to come back twice to narrow the question that had already been answered says something . Maybe look in before lashing out .

Sorry if I hurt your feelings that was never the intent .
 
It can mean whatever you want. But it did come across as condescending. Next I look and see many more answers that have nothing to do with the question than answers that do. My mistake I guess the answer was simpler than I expected.
 
I use the cheap plastic boxes, I put on BOTH a sticker and write on tge box with a sharpy with all the load info, primer type, powder, grains of powder, grains of projectile, type projectile, lubed-PCed-gas checked-etc, and an idea of what kind of load it is, bunny farts, plinkers, medium load, full mags or just simply "OUCH"
 
Another masking tape fan here. Typical date loaded/bullet/powder and powder quantity, OAL. When I have more than 1 rifle in that caliber I add whether the case was neck sized neck sized and for which rifle or FL sized
 
Ok, in re-reading the thread I see that I didn't see your OP correctly. How dose one label +/- powder drops correctly? In my opinion one would first need to weigh and measure all of the other components, case, bullet, powder, and primer. Inconsistency's of each of the component noted and averaged out. you might find that +.1/-.1 isn't a big deal.

I would note the powder drop used and anything specific to that drop.

If you are dropping, then weighing powder charges. Trickle up to an exact weight as best as your scale can do.

If you are setting up a turret or progressive, I think you would look for a 20ct average +/- and call it a target weight so long as it is within safe load configurations. I would label box as such.

my 2cents
 
Last edited:
So I've put even more thought to this and agree with others that say put the intended charge weight down . Reason being is if they sit for awhile ( months or years ) When you come back to them you know what the charge "should" be . I often just use the box of loaded ammo as my guide do to the large amount of info I log on each box .

Keeping all that in mind , Let's say you are willing to except +/- .1gr and you are consistently throwing +.1gr and you then write 4.2gr instead of 4.1gr on the box . Now months later you look at the box to load more and you see 4.2gr . Well now you load to 4.2gr because that's what it says the load is but you really wanted 4.1gr . But wait , Remember you are excepting +/- .1gr and lets say this time you are throwing 4.3gr consistently . No big deal right you're only .1gr above what's on the box , right ??? no now you're .2gr above the original intended charge .

So as I stated in my first post note what the intended charge is supposed to be and if it's +.2gr or more note that as well . Now I don't use my Auto disc much but I think your idea of noting the disc and cavity you used is a good idea as well . This way instead of having to look at the chart for the disc that's best for that powder charge . It's already noted as well .

I do write a lot on my loaded ammo cards/boxes and really don't need to because I can look at that same info up in my load data binders I keep that has even more data for each load . How ever as I stated earlier I often use the data on my ammo boxes to load the next rounds . I should add that I'm a low round count loader usually not more then 100 at a time . I use a single stage for all rifle loads and a Lee classic turret press for all hand gun loads so I don't really have the ability to crank out hundreds at a time , well really the time I tend to only spend an hour or so at a time at the bench . Rarely more then two hours .

I realized I had not explained in detail why I gave the answers I did earlier , Hope that helped .
 
Metal god I think we are both feeling better tonight! What you state here in your last post makes a lot of sense and more or less reinforces what I've been doing.

For all that have replied. I do keep a load notebook that records every load I make with details of every component used. Even the general measurements of the length, diameter, actual weight. Along with case head stamp. If over the course of the load development I change OAL that too is noted and if it is a large change I start a new load entry. For each load there is also space for notes as to how it performed and overall impression.

For the record I do not load rifle calibers.

The question I have been asking myself is about marking the powder charge and since I load most everything with the Lee Auto disk measure using the fixed disks there is no adjusting it. What you get is it. So for now I have been marking the disk cavity number and the weight that I've been getting with that disk. So I guess I've been asking myself if all that information is really needed to be on each box. The info printed and kept with each load is so that I know what is in each box as to cal., bullet weight and about how hot it is. Whether it is a light target load, a medium target load or a hot and heavy load.

As far as sharing loads, I try not to as it could be an unsafe practice. What works well in my guns may not work in others of course. So if I do have to relay all load data to someone else I understand telling them #40 cavity on the Lee Disk isn't going to help anyone unless they were of course using my disks.

So I really do thank everyone for their input and time, though all the extras about making labels, what to include on the label and so forth. The question was meant to be pretty specific about a certain part of the label as simple as that was.

So thank you all again, I believe the question has been answered by a few good members.
 
kmw1954 , I recommend you consider getting the Lee auto drum . The reason I don't use my Lee auto disc is because the discs NEVER threw the charge I wanted . During load development I weigh out each charge on a beam scale while also using check weights to be sure I'm actually getting the intended charges .

When doing so I'd come up with some very good , consistent and accurate loads . How ever when it came to cranking them out on my LCT press . The auto disc never was able to throw the charge I wanted . So I went to the lee auto drum which allows you to charge to any weight regardless of powder or cartridge .

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...RED--CENSORED-=itwine&utm_content=100-018-937

I also later went to the charging bar instead of the discs in the Lee pro auto disc which also allows you to charge to "pretty much" any handgun charge . It's not large enough for rifle loads really
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precisio...qid=1512714576&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+charge+bar

Forgive me if you are not using Lee products but if you are either one of these will allow you to consistently charge to the weight you actually want and not break the bank . If you are using the Lee auto disc , getting the charge bar help my reloading a lot and it's only like $11 . win win :)
 
Right now I have 3 Lee powder measures, 2 Auto Disk and 1 Auto Drum. In the time I've owned the Drum I've had to send it back twice already and both times they pretty much replaced every part in it. I have used it with both my 9mm and 380 loads on both an old 3 hole turret press and a Pro 1000 progressive. With the HP-38, AA#5 and the Ramshot Silhouette powders I've gotten very consistent drops with both types of measures. By that I mean I can hold 0.1gr of my target weight when checked on my beam scale. Which I think is pretty consistent for a volume measure.

So with having sent it back twice I've kind of lost confidence in the Drum which is a shame because I do like it. On my Christmas list is an upgrade kit for my Disk measure. So far I've been fortunate in that the charges I'm using I've been able to get 3 levels other than for the 380 which I'm only getting 2 at best.

I am not Bullseye shooting so I feel I can live with the 0.1gr fluctuation in powder charge as even when I load that on purpose I cannot tell the difference in performance or feel..
 
I used the MTM labels but soon tired of the fact that they stick too much and are a pain to remove and replace. I switched to using a label machine.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/Brother-P-Touch-PT-D210-Label-Maker/dp/B013DG2FNW

The labels are professional looking, easy to remove and replace but stay put until you are ready to replace them. As for how much information, for me it depends on what it is but I keep detailed records of my loads so sometimes I just put the minimum on the label with a reference number that gives the full data in my log book.

I have been very happy with this method.
 
I only put the lot number on the label. All other data is kept in a spreadsheet accessible from phone/pad/puter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
When using the auto disc, I just throw 10 charges and then put the average on the label. That being said, I haven't used mine in a long time, I'm all Auto Drum these days except for rifle stuff. For precision rifle I throw short with the PPM and trickle up for developing a load. Once I've developed a load I set my Lyman 55 and forget it. For rifle plinking I use the Lee PPM with an adapter on the turret.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top