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Is this a bad idea?
- Thread starter JSG81
- Start date
I'm surprised to hear that the cylinder on your old 37 is the same length as cylinder on your 442 with the J Magnum frame.
There should be no surprise, that they are the same length, they're both .38 specials. The model 442 in .38 Special is not built on the "magnum J frame" its the standard J frame.
To the best of my knowledge, the longer "magnum" J frame was ONLY used for guns made in .357 Magnum. J frame guns made in .38 Special (and in .22LR) use the regular J frame.
To the best of my knowledge, the longer "magnum" J frame was ONLY used for guns made in .357 Magnum. J frame guns made in .38 Special (and in .22LR) use the regular J frame.
I'm under the impression that two things happened with the introduction of the J Magnum frame around 1996: 1) steel frame guns went from .38 Spl to .357 Mag, and 2) Airweights went from .38 Spl to .38 Spl +P.
There are exceptions like:
649-3 1996 Change to .357 Magnum frame
649-4 Nov 1996-1999 Reintroduce in 38 Spl+P using Magnum frame
I am curious as to the different frame sizes. It would be easier as a manufacturer to use the same size frame. That's what they did with K frames, the .357s had less gap between the front of the cylinder and the frame than the .38s because the cylinder windows were the same, but the .38s had shorter cylinders (making a larger gap from the front of the cylinder to the frame).
I am curious as to the different frame sizes. It would be easier as a manufacturer to use the same size frame. That's what they did with K frames, the .357s had less gap between the front of the cylinder and the frame than the .38s because the cylinder windows were the same, but the .38s had shorter cylinders (making a larger gap from the front of the cylinder to the frame).
Part of the reason is timing. Consider this, say you're making the J frame .38s for 35-40 years or more, and then somebody figures out how you can stretch the frame enough to fit .357 into it, and make it at a marketable price point. Cool....
Now, do you STOP making .38s on the standard frame? snd have the tooling and jigs unique to the .38 frame sit idle, gathering dust, rusting, and making you no money???
OR do you continue to make .38s on the .38 frame (which are still selling well) and then ALSO make .357s on the longer frame, keeping the market you had and have for .38s and now adding .357.
Now turn that around a bit for the K frame. You've been making the K frame size since the dawn of time (well 1902, anyway) in .38 special. The frame ALSO happens to be large enough to fit the .357 when it comes along, so you can make .357s on that frame with minimal changes.
Another point to consider, you mention the gap between the front of the cylinder and the frame, and how the shorter .38 cylinder has a larger gap. This is true, but it doesn't matter. The size of the gap between the front of the cylinder and the frame doesn't matter for anything other than visual aestheics. What matters is the BARREL/CYLINDER gap, and that is kept to standard tolerances with a short cylinder simply by having the barrel extend deeper into the frame window. An obvious example of this is the N frame guns in .45acp. Very short cylinder, compared to .357, .44Mag or .45 Colt. The barrel extends deeper into the frame window, up to the front of the short cylinder, keeping the barrel/cylinder gap within standard tolerances. The short cylinder is a "long" way from the front of the frame window, but its the normal distance from the rear end of the barrel.
Doing it that way means you don't have the change the frame at all for a short cartridge with a short cylinder, all you have to do is cut a few more threads on the barrel shank where it screws into the frame. Simple, easy, and cheap compared to altering the frame.
Thanks. I think I figured out the cause of my confusion. I either read or inferred that the new (in 1996) frame lug (which isn't really a lug) was only used on J Magnum frames, that the presence of the new frame lug meant the gun was built on the J Magnum frame.
So that's not the case...the new frame lug, while being used on the new J Magnum guns, was/is also used on .38s with the old smaller J frame. That explains it.
So that's not the case...the new frame lug, while being used on the new J Magnum guns, was/is also used on .38s with the old smaller J frame. That explains it.
Basically yes loading .357 brass to 38+p power ranges is the idea. My main reason for wanting to do this is to not have the sticky rings in my other .357s.
If you are having sticky rings thats not an ammo problem or a cylinder problem thats a "I didn't clean my gun very well" problem.
I always clean my guns when I get home and I shoot a lot of 38s in my 357 guns. And I start off by wetting the charge holes with WD-40 or the Walmart equivalent and letting it sit for an hour or so. It is a penetrating oil.Then the crud rings usually brush right out with a brass bristle brush.
Then I wet again with normal made for guns cleaning solution and brush and then run wet patches till its clean. And I don't don't try to remove the black rings on the front of the cylinder. Just clean it off. Its going to get dirty again anyway.
If you need 38 special brass there is 6 pages of it on gunbroker. And if its in stock Starline is the best you can buy. Buy it direct for the best price.
https://www.gunbroker.com/Reloading-Supplies/search?Keywords=38 special brass&Sort=13&PageSize=24