Is this a bad idea?
- Thread starter JSG81
- Start date
That is exactly why I asked here.
I said earlier that my understanding is that now the j frames have the same length cylinder for both 38 special and .357. I cannot stress enough how easily I could be wrong.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
silvermane_1
New member
Don't ever put a 357 mag cylinder in a 38, even if it will fit!, there JSG81.
There is a big difference between physically fitting in the frame window and "fitted" to work properly (timing).
Additionally, the OP's S&W 442 is made with an Aluminum frame.
S&W does not put .357 in aluminum fame guns. They do in OTHER alloys with greater strength, but NOT in aluminum alloy frame revolvers.
There's a reason for that.
The problem with fitting a .357 cylinder into an aluminum J frame gun would be that the gun COULD get fired with .357 loads which would likely lead to frame stretching (and cracking) in short order. Same result if you had the .38 cylinder reamed to take .357 brass. YOU might only shoot appropriate load levels, but if the gun can physically take .357 ammo, it could, someday, be shot with .357 ammo and that would be a bad thing.
Shoot .38s in .38 Specials or replace that .38 Special gun with a .357 gun if you want to shoot .357s, Anything else is asking for trouble, and the problem with asking for trouble is, eventually you might get it!
arquebus357
New member
I'm confused. If your gun has a .38 Special cylinder why would you be getting "rings". My impression is that you get "rings" from shooting .38 Special rounds from a longer .357 Magnum cylinder.
stinkeypete
New member
recapping:
1. It's a bad idea. Cylinders are not (usually) drop in parts for many reasons.
2. .38 Special is not some "weak sister" cartridge. I have a reloading manual from WAAAY back with the warnings "Do not use maximum loads in anything other than new strong revolvers." These are now called "+P" loads. .38 Special is arguably comparable to 9mm. Hot-rodders get in arguments about how hot they can load 9mm so we just say "Yeah but .357 Magnum" and they admit defeat by a country mile. Nothing wrong with .38 Special or 9mm unless primary purpose is hunting deer.
3. The OP wants to know the best powder for reloading. Two things:
a. BULLSEYE. Fast powder.
Bullseye is an "ancient" fast powder. There are ample recipes for Bullseye. It smells like gunpowder should. Maybe it's a little bit dirty but I never really noticed. It's got a grand history and anything W231 can do, Bullseye can do.
Bullseye's middle aged competitor is W231. Maybe it's a little better but you really can't tell much of a difference. HP38 is a special can with graphics and marketing specifically for most handgun reloading. You take W231 and put it in a HP38 can and now it IS HP38.
b. Unique. Medium speed powder.
With heavier bullets a slower powder is better. Like Bullseye, Unique is one of the grandpa cowboy powders. It can do it all but is a bit chunky for metering, especially for very small loads, which is where Bullseye is best anyhow. Unique is really good.
2400 works but is only "better" than Unique as we get up to .357 magnum loadings and if you already load for .357 magnum this is good. Likewise for the shotgun powders like Blue Dot- they work too but if you reload shotgun shells they are even better.
To me, .38 Special is like oatmeal. I guess all the cool kids are eating Greek Yogurt and Kashi now. Take some real oatmeal and cook it up with milk, add some brown sugar, chopped walnuts and some blueberries- mmmm. Granted, you need to learn to turn on the stove and it might take a few minutes longer, but oatmeal is classic. And tasty.
1. It's a bad idea. Cylinders are not (usually) drop in parts for many reasons.
2. .38 Special is not some "weak sister" cartridge. I have a reloading manual from WAAAY back with the warnings "Do not use maximum loads in anything other than new strong revolvers." These are now called "+P" loads. .38 Special is arguably comparable to 9mm. Hot-rodders get in arguments about how hot they can load 9mm so we just say "Yeah but .357 Magnum" and they admit defeat by a country mile. Nothing wrong with .38 Special or 9mm unless primary purpose is hunting deer.
3. The OP wants to know the best powder for reloading. Two things:
a. BULLSEYE. Fast powder.
Bullseye is an "ancient" fast powder. There are ample recipes for Bullseye. It smells like gunpowder should. Maybe it's a little bit dirty but I never really noticed. It's got a grand history and anything W231 can do, Bullseye can do.
Bullseye's middle aged competitor is W231. Maybe it's a little better but you really can't tell much of a difference. HP38 is a special can with graphics and marketing specifically for most handgun reloading. You take W231 and put it in a HP38 can and now it IS HP38.
b. Unique. Medium speed powder.
With heavier bullets a slower powder is better. Like Bullseye, Unique is one of the grandpa cowboy powders. It can do it all but is a bit chunky for metering, especially for very small loads, which is where Bullseye is best anyhow. Unique is really good.
2400 works but is only "better" than Unique as we get up to .357 magnum loadings and if you already load for .357 magnum this is good. Likewise for the shotgun powders like Blue Dot- they work too but if you reload shotgun shells they are even better.
To me, .38 Special is like oatmeal. I guess all the cool kids are eating Greek Yogurt and Kashi now. Take some real oatmeal and cook it up with milk, add some brown sugar, chopped walnuts and some blueberries- mmmm. Granted, you need to learn to turn on the stove and it might take a few minutes longer, but oatmeal is classic. And tasty.
The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson says the .357 mag J frame guns were built on the J magnum frame, not a standard J frame.
Cylinder length went from 1.53 in the .38 Special, to 1.60 in the Magnum guns.
Looking at my model 442, I don't see how you could fit one in the shorter frame.
Cylinder length went from 1.53 in the .38 Special, to 1.60 in the Magnum guns.
Looking at my model 442, I don't see how you could fit one in the shorter frame.
I ran across that being mentioned - however - I also ran across multiple times that people mentioned the dimensions of the J frame had changed & the newer ones all used the same cylinder.
If you don't mind looking too much - what's the copyright date on the book you have?
Evedintialy - no one bothered to view the youtube video I linked to either that shows a guy sticking a .357 cylinder into a 360 .38 special - but he did it
Read the Q&A also since it answers a lot of the things you say.
Anyhow - just because you can do something isn't a reason you should do something & I never did say it was a good idea to do it - just that it looks like it can be done.
For that matter, reaming out the chambers might also be possible - but - an even worse idea since that would ruin the gun.
When I weighed 330 pounds, I could down 12 cans of Light beer in a sitting & still "Blow legal" at the end (for s short time anyhow). That didn't make driving home after the right or even brightest thing to so.
Last edited:
1911_Hardball
New member
I would expect it to fit. The Model 360 is a .357 Magnum.
https://www.smith-wesson.com/firearms/model-360-357-magnum38-sw-special-p
The only difference in the 360 and 360PD is stainless vs titanium cylinder.
I suspect the guy in the video either misspoke or didn't know what he had. It's possible that they made a special agency/government contract run chambered for .38 Spl, but the frame is a magnum frame.
EDIT: As far as "drop in" goes with regard to revolver cylinders; sometimes it works, usually it doesn't.
If anyone buys a cylinder and the timing, carry up, BC gap, and amount of endshake are all spot on I strongly suggest that he buys a lottery ticket immediately.
Last edited:
I think the J Magnum frame was introduced around 1996, which was also when the Airweights were rated for +P. They had longer barrels, longer cylinders, and longer frames. They were the same size as their .357 cousins, BUT I wouldn't assume the metal was the same.
I'd suggest buying some .38 SPL brass with the money instead of getting a .357 cylinder.
Better safe than sorry, and you never know who might be loading it with real .357s down the road.
I'd suggest buying some .38 SPL brass with the money instead of getting a .357 cylinder.
Better safe than sorry, and you never know who might be loading it with real .357s down the road.
You have all helped me reach that same conclusion. I need to get out of the house more and stop having poor ideas.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
