I want to reload, where to start?

Like the OP, I am at a similar stage... just getting started, and need to know the basics plus want to spend money on quality equipment that won't be tossed once I learn what I am doing and advance in the hobby.

I plan to reload 9mm and 300 blackout rounds, mostly shooting subsonic loads in both. Maybe shotgun reloading, but it has been said that shotgun reloading can be a fool's errand, so we can put that on the back burner if necessary. I would also be shooting subsonic shotgun loads with a silencer as well, would those loads make reloading shotgun ammo more relevant from a financial or supply perspective?


Is the Lyman 49th edition book still the "best" for someone just starting out and wanting to absorb all the basics? The Amazon review of this book says it doesn't cover reloading 300 blackout. Is that accurate?
 
just getting started, and need to know the basics
Click to expand...

Is the Lyman 49th edition book still the "best" for someone just starting out and wanting to absorb all the basics?
Click to expand...

The 49th is a very good manual to start reloading any cartridge . Yes it may not have specific loads for some of the newer cartridges but the basic reloading process is the same you'll just need to find load data elsewhere . It will be the same with most well respected manuals . There are many new powders you will not find in most of the well respected manuals as well . That does not mean they are out dated . They all will help you get started as well as help well into you're experienced years .

You are really jumping into the deep end right off the bat . Most just want the ammo to go bang at first then move on to the more complex aspect of reloading . You not only want them to go bang but do it in a very specific way .

plus want to spend money on quality equipment that won't be tossed once I learn what I am doing and advance in the hobby.
Click to expand...

I've bought a lot of reloading stuff over the years and there has only been one thing or types of things I've grown out of and that's dies . I started with Lee dies and even Redding standard dies and have moved on to bushing dies . I guess the cheap digital scales you should stay away from as well . For $40 some work pretty well but will not last , at least the two I've went through have not . I only use digital to weigh brass now and stick with a beam scale for powder . All pistol charges are checked with check weights and a beam scale then just thrown from a powder measure . 99% of rifle rounds are all weighed using a beam scale . I will throw some of the ball powders that are for plinking and range fun .

That all said , it appears you have no plans on loading any match type ammo . It appears you are going for close range SD/HD type of loading . I'm thinking your basic standard dies should work just fine for your application and calibers .

Now I load all my match ammo on a single stage press and have since I started reloading . I do now use a Lee turret press to load hand gun ammo because a single stage and hand gun loading gets old fast . Just to many die changes for me . If you've never loaded before I recommend learning on a single stage . How ever to your point of not wasting money . A turret press may be what you want but as others have said . Having a single stage around comes in handy all the time . I de-prime all my cases regardless of caliber before any case prep . That is all done on my single stage press .
 
Lyman's 49th was my beginners bible for my first year of reloading. I think I got it off amazon for $20. Best dam handloading investment period. I had the manual before I even got my press kit as I was not quite sure what type I wanted.
 
Bullet loading trays - http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/110254/mtm-universal-reloading-tray-50-round-plastic-red

I'd recommend at least two to start with; I have 5 now.

Case prep tool - http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Multi-Tool/dp/B004MCMCYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451359298&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+case+prep+tool

I use a Lyman, but pretty much everyone makes one. You won't use the chamfer/deburring tools for pistol reloading, but the primer pocket cleaning bits will come in handy.

Check weights - I'm pretty sure everyone makes check weights and I'm not sure you have to spend real money on them; they are all probably about the same. Just get them and use them.

Also, if you're going to load .38/357, you should consider cast bullets as they are typically cheaper than plated/jacketed bullets.

Side note: I have been reloading now for just over one year now, so I've got a couple bits of unsolicited advice: One, EXPECT to make mistakes; double and if you're uncertain, triple check your work. You're guaranteed to make a few out-of-spec bullets; double checking every step can prevent most mistakes from being unhealthy.

Two, ANY step that involves primers or gunpowder unequivocally requires eye and ear protection. It might seem silly at first, but trust me even just a primer detonation is very loud in a closed room. I haven't detonated any gun powder yet (knock on my wooden head), but I imagine that would be louder.

Three, whatever powder you're using at the time should be placed somewhere on the workbench in plain sight, and should stay there until you're done reloading your last bullet. No other powder should ever be sitting on your table top, lest you somehow forget which one you're using.
 
Bullet loading trays - http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/110...nd-plastic-red

I'd recommend at least two to start with; I have 5 now.

Case prep tool - http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Pre...case+prep+tool

I use a Lyman, but pretty much everyone makes one. You won't use the chamfer/deburring tools for pistol reloading, but the primer pocket cleaning bits will come in handy.

Check weights - I'm pretty sure everyone makes check weights and I'm not sure you have to spend real money on them; they are all probably about the same. Just get them and use them.

Also, if you're going to load .38/357, you should consider cast bullets as they are typically cheaper than plated/jacketed bullets.

Side note: I have been reloading now for just over one year now, so I've got a couple bits of unsolicited advice: One, EXPECT to make mistakes; double and if you're uncertain, triple check your work. You're guaranteed to make a few out-of-spec bullets; double checking every step can prevent most mistakes from being unhealthy.

Two, ANY step that involves primers or gunpowder unequivocally requires eye and ear protection. It might seem silly at first, but trust me even just a primer detonation is very loud in a closed room. I haven't detonated any gun powder yet (knock on my wooden head), but I imagine that would be louder.

Three, whatever powder you're using at the time should be placed somewhere on the workbench in plain sight, and should stay there until you're done reloading your last bullet. No other powder should ever be sitting on your table top, lest you somehow forget which one you're using.
Click to expand...

Very good advice! Thank You!
 
Not only do I keep the current bottle of powder near my powder dispenser, but I also write the description on a piece of masking tape and stick it to the hopper lid just as a second reference. Same method for my current load recipie, write everything down so if you have to stop your loading for several days you still have your load data.
 
First rounds loaded today, range tomorrow.

My bench, inside of my gun vault

IMG_20160108_175205283.jpg
 
Very nice , looks good and I see you have what you need there . Hope all goes well tomorrow . What will you be testing ?
 
Very nice , looks good and I see you have what you need there . Hope all goes well tomorrow . What will you be testing ?
Click to expand...

I'm shooting some 158g Sierra JSP loaded in .38spcl brass with 4.7g of Unique. I will be using my Security Six. I weighed every charge just like a newb should :D

The only issues will be with my crimp. Some crimped just right and some I had to tighten the crimp up on and hit them a second time. Some seem loose, others felt too tight.

I'm using the LEE 4 die set for the .38/.357
 
Did you use mixed brass ( mixed head stamps ) ? If so I'd say that was your crimp issue . I had the same issue when I used mixed brass . If the case walls are thinner then others the crimp will come out lighter . I should add that my issue was with 45acp , I don't load for any wheel guns
 
Well mixed results..........

No crimp issues but I squibbed one. 14 went through just fine but #15 didn't. I missed a load somehow. Nothing but primer on that one. It's stuck about a 1/4" into the barrel so I won't have issues getting it out.

I'm disappointed in myself but I won't let it deter me, just make me more determined to double/triple check my work.

The ones that went bang were very accurate.
 
That's to bad . It's very important you recognize what went wrong in your reloading process to cause a charge to be missed . If you don't know what went wrong . There is no way to stop it from happening again .

The one thing that helps prevent this is to batch load . That is to charge all the cases at a particular charge weight and set in reloading blocks before seating the bullets . You then visually inspect all the cases ti make sure they all have powder in them .

Did you use the press as a single stage press as was recommended for your first loads ? It is very easy for a reloader to miss something with a turret or auto indexing press . Even more so if these are the first loads ever loaded .
 
I single staged. But what happened was I showed my son how to decap/prime one round, I set it on the bench then had to take him to his mom's. When I came back I inadvertantly stuck it on the press first to seat the bullet.

Just stupid but a lesson learned
 
All is good again. I soaked the barrel, muzzle up, with Ballistol for an hour. Came back and pushed the round out with a brass rod and some light hammer strikes.

Hey, at least I know what a squib sounds and feels like. I have had this happen in a 10.5" Super Blackhawk. Not my first rodeo with squibs
 
It's good that you recognized the squib. I've read horror stories when the shooter fires another round after the squib. I had one as well in my Glock, same deal no charge and the primer had just enough energy to jam the bullet. Smacked out the round with a 3/8" wood dowel. When I load pistol on my LEE turret I have learned to wear a LED head mounted light. I aim the light right at the casing so a quick well lit verification that I correctly charged (and more importantly did not overcharge) the casing before seating the bullet. The light is also helpful when I do 223 .
 
SARuger, glad it worked out. I also seated a bullet on an empty case, luckily I cought it, l was distracted, thought about it, weighed all the rounds, found one. I was lucky. After that I double check, after adding powder I check with a penlight while still in loading block & l made a habit of looking into every case before it goes into the shell holder. I shoot with a competition shooter who lost the sight in his right eye by leaving a brass drop plug in his barrel that removed a stuck bullet when ceasefire was called. When the firing line was hot, he chambered a 6mm round blew the chamber. Was flown by helicopter to the hospital. If things like that could happen to a man that has a lot more time behind the trigger then me, Sure made me double check things. Be Safe
 
Thanks guys! We think alike, I purchased two LED book lights today and clamped them to the press. Now I can see into the casing easily and I will know for sure if there is a load there or not.

Right now I'm just playing with the auto-loader, I'm still weighing out my charges(well all but the one).

I tried the charge bar and that thing is erratic with the 4.7gn of Unique that I'm loading with right now so I switched back to the disc. I got anywhere from 4.2 gn to 5.0gn. The 5.3 and 6.1 holes will not charge enough(4.2 and 4.6 respectively) and the 6.6 hole charges too much(5.3gn) I may have to drill out the 6.1 to get the volume I need for this load.

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Thoughts?
Click to expand...

http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-autodrum-powder-measure

I was having the same issue . The discs never seem to throw the charge I want so I went to the auto drum . It works well but I had one problem with it and I think it was something I was doing wrong so I'll not say what it is . For the prices It's pretty good .

Sorry I did not recommend it earlier . I did not realize you were getting the auto disc . If I would have seen that I would have recommended the auto drum over the auto disc .
 
Last edited:
http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-au...powder-measure

I was having the same issue . The discs never seem to throw the charge I want so I went to the auto drum . It works well but I had one problem with it and I think it was something I was doing wrong so I'll not say what it is . For the prices It's pretty good .

Sorry I did not recommend it earlier . I did not realize you were getting the auto disc . If I would have seen that I would have recommended the auto drum over the auto disc .
Click to expand...

I ordered one last night after reading some reviews.

I'm also having issues with powder clinging to the measure. I'm giving the handle several bumps when loading but it doesn't want to let go. My next step is to run a ground from a nearby water pipe in the house, to discharge all of the static.
 
try some graphite powder on the measure or anything else that contacts the powder. It will help with the static. Don't forget graphite is in the powder to begin with, so as you use it it will do the same thing. This is just quicker.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top