I want to reload, where to start?

The first must have accesory is a set of dial calipers. No way to skip this step. Generally on your 3rd rifle casing reload you will need to trim the casings.

Do you have a workshop drill press ? If so then you don't need an expensive case trim station. Chuck up these LEE arbors in your drill press and done, trimmed in seconds:
Cutter:
http://leeprecision.com/cutter.html

.223 Arbor:
http://leeprecision.com/cl-gauge-223.html

Lastly you don't need a vibratory tumbler , yes they are nice to have but to start out all you need is a wash bucket, water , vinegar , CLR and some salt to wash the casings. Works great as well.
 
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Yep! i have a table top drill press and out in my garage/welding shop I have a stand up drill press, so I'm good there.

More great advice! I can use a bucket and I do have a wash basin near my gun room.
 
You will never need to trim pistol cases, no matter how many times you load them. And they won't shoot a danged bit different if they have been washed, tumbled, spit-shined, or gold plated. That step, no matter how you do it, does absolutely nothing except make you feel good (if you care).

And although you probably already have them in your shop, if you are starting with revolver loads, there isn't even any need for calipers. You will crimp the bullets in the crimp groove or cannelure; the OAL is meaningless so long as the cylinder rotates (assuming you are following published load data). And if you are just dying to know the overall length, a ruler is dandy for revolver loads - there is no need to be more accurate than that.

You said above that your estimate of $600 to get started was "a lot for me right now". So why do you keep looking to spend more than you need to? We have told you how to get started for way less.
 
You will never need to trim pistol cases, no matter how many times you load them. And they won't shoot a danged bit different if they have been washed, tumbled, spit-shined, or gold plated. That step, no matter how you do it, does absolutely nothing except make you feel good (if you care).

And although you probably already have them in your shop, if you are starting with revolver loads, there isn't even any need for calipers. You will crimp the bullets in the crimp groove or cannelure; the OAL is meaningless so long as the cylinder rotates (assuming you are following published load data). And if you are just dying to know the overall length, a ruler is dandy for revolver loads - there is no need to be more accurate than that.

You said above that your estimate of $600 to get started was "a lot for me right now". So why do you keep looking to spend more than you need to? We have told you how to get started for way less.
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I just want to make sure I get what I need and i am listening. My shopping cart is getting smaller at Midway:)
 
By the way, in case you haven't already noticed, Lee dies come WITH the correct shell holder (other brands generally do not) - another benefit and cost savings. And they even have a powder dipper, which is a very satisfactory way to start loading if you do not spend money on a powder measure.

And you said you really wanted a digital scale - I advise against it for now. Not only is it an unneeded expense, but cheap digitals are notorious for inaccuracies and drifting. I still use the original RCBS beam scale I bought in 1975 - it is absolutely guaranteed to be at least as accurate, and probably more, than any digital scale. If you are going to buy a kit, live with whatever scale it comes with at least until you just cannot stand having any extra money in your pocket.
 
Do NOT buy the Lee .44 Mag dies! Get either .44 Russian or .44 Special dies. The .44 Russian dies will let you load both Special and Magnum, while the Magnum dies do not let you load anything except .44 Magnum. It is unlikely that you will ever care about .44 Russian, but the .44 Spl is still a very common round. Even if you currently do not shoot .44 Special, why limit yourself for no reason at all?
 
^ more great advice! I have not placed the order yet. I'm going to stew on it for a week, tweak it and keep reading, learning and digesting the advice given.
 
I'm a benchrest shooter, shooting a Rem. 700 308 cal. I may shoot 30 rounds max. Total for the season 600 on the average. It seems you will be reloading more rounds then me, and different calibers. The RCBS Rock Chucker is perfect for me, you maybe better off not going single stage. I can understand your hesitation, when you make your choice on the press the other stuff is easy. Give a second look at the tumbler tumbler with stainless steel pins to clean your brass, I dry tumbled my brass for over 25 years and just changed. Cleans inside & out even primer pockets also no dry media dust. Wet tumbling is fairly new, most dry tumble. Once I tried it, I gave the dry tumbler, media, corn , walnut & 3 bowls to a shooting friend. Can teach an old dog new tricks.
 
My Dillon 550 was $439 about eight years ago...still available at that same price.
Scales, five or so manuals, calipers (2x), tumblers (2x), and the tool heads and dies to reload for .380, 9mm, .38 Spl, .357 Mag, 10mm, .45acp, .45LC, .223, .300BLK, .308, .30'06 altogether haven't come close to $2k.

If you bought two 1050s...maybe that would get you there.

Most of us get started for $300-500, and move on from there.

Now if I told you how much I have spent on powder, primers and projectiles in the last eight years....that would be a different story. But that is a month-by-month expenditure.
 
SARuger said:
...dropped the scale...
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Do not drop the scale. I would not load without my loads being confirmed by weight. Most all loads are meted out by volume, but the charges are set by weight.

I suggest you get a good balance beam scale before (or in addition to) an electronic scale.. Even the Lee scale (which is notoriously hard to read) is accurate and more reliable than the less expensive (and less well-shielded) electronic scales. (Reliable, as in gravity is more reliable than electricity).

Modern electronic scales are good, but I always question their readings until either a check weight or a balance beam confirms. My prejudice.

Lost Sheep
 
Do not drop the scale. I would not load without my loads being confirmed by weight. Most all loads are meted out by volume, but the charges are set by weight.

I suggest you get a good balance beam scale before (or in addition to) an electronic scale.. Even the Lee scale (which is notoriously hard to read) is accurate and more reliable than the less expensive (and less well-shielded) electronic scales. (Reliable, as in gravity is more reliable than electricity).

Modern electronic scales are good, but I always question their readings until either a check weight or a balance beam confirms. My prejudice.
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The LEE Turret kit I'm getting has a beam scale. I was going to add the electronic scales but with a tight budget, it was suggested I drop them as they were redundant.

I would NEVER reload without scales.......
 
Keep in mind you are going to need to purchase bullets, primers and powder, and plan on that being an additional $100+ depending on how many bullets you plan on buying, and so the handloading addiction starts, I frequently buy my handloading dies for a new caliber even before I have the firearm !
 
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If for the short term your only loading straight wall pistol casings you won't need calipers. Calipers are mandatory for monitoring case stretching from firing bottle neck rifle casings. Keep in mind you are going to need to purchase bullets, primers and powder, and plan on that being an additional $100+ depending on how many bullets you plan on buying.
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Yeah I know but I know I will need them. I have a set in my workshop now but they are beat up and not good for precision work.

I will be reloading rifle rounds within a couple of months. .223 and 30-30(for a bolt gun) And then at some point 30-30 for a lever,.243 and 30-06
 
I pulled a brain fart see my edited post, calipers are also necessary for establishing you COAL for both pistol and rifle so they are still a necessary item..
 
Primer pocket uniformer. Cuts pockets to proper depth, when seating primers, they should bottom in the pocket & also be below flush with the base of the case. The uniformed case makes this very easy & trouble free. What powder and bullet are you going with. Separate your brass, load the same brand. With a crimp remember all cases should be trimmed to the same length. Its been awhile since I reloaded for hand gun, Work was 357 & 45 auto fun 44 Mag. all were crimped, Shoot only rifle now 308 cal. different ball game. I find reloading just as injoyable as shooting. Just take your time,do the best you can & Be Safe.
 
It's on order, Midway put all of it on sale today so I pulled the trigger. Now to order bullets, primers, and powder for the .357/.38. I have a Security Six and two LCR's(.38) so I will load up some 158g XTP .38 spcl rounds first to plink with and then load some .357mag for the Security Six with the same bullet.

After I feel comfortable with what I'm doing I plan on some .44mag for my 10.5" SBH for target practice. I have always shot the Winchester 240g JSP but want to try some 260/265g but never could find them in box ammo. Any recommendations for a bullet/load in that weight?
 
The S&W mod.13 has a 3"HB used 158gr lead the 44Mag used a 240 gr Sierra HPC jacketed bullet out of a S&W 29 Smiths are known for end shake when using a steady diet of full loads, so instead of shooting 44 Spl. I reloaded mag.cases with a spl load, was easier on the hands. You made good choice's on your equipment. Now your hooked
 
I won't be ordering powder from midway, $39 HAZMAT fee PLUS $10 shipping, I will pay a little more locally.......Primers are the same story
 
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