I just bought a Dan Wesson

My DW has arrived! It is in very good condition, although seller never bothered to clean it after shooting. But with some Hoppe's #9 it quickly became an attractive looking gun with minimal signs of use and cool "plum colored" bluing in the frame :-))) I am going to try to go down the range in the afternoon to test fire it, but everything looks fine. Lockup is tight and with a minimal play, timing seems to be ok too. And let me tell you: this gun is easy to clean! You just remove the barrel and have an easy access to everything. Cleaning forcing cone is non issue at all. I like it!

I do have a question though... This gun came with two barrels 2" and 6". It came in DW plastic box, but I am not sure if box is original. The box says model 15-2V which calls for vented rib barrels. However both barrels a non-vented and with short under-lug.
I know of a guy selling a 12" barrel and I entertain the idea of buying it. However this guy doesn't know if the barrel is for Model 15-no-dash or 15-2. And since he's not local, I can not just "try for fit". Please take a look at the picture below, as I'd like to confirm the fit of the barrel. From what I gathered on the Internet model 15-2 has a pin on the frame and hole on the barrel's shroud (circled in red) and model 15-no-dash has a different meanings of fitting the shroud. Can someone confirm that I indeed have model 15-2 ? What's the difference in shroud fit between two models?

Thanks!

DW1.jpg
 
The style before the one you show was called "The Porkchop" because it had an "L"-shaped extension sticking down from the chamber end of the shroud. IIRC that was the model 15. The "L" is really easy to spot so that's what I'd ask the seller, never mind the exact model details which seem to be confusing him.
102178_01_dan_wesson_arms_357_mag_4_barr_640.jpg

If the barrel has no "porkchop" you should be fine with any 15-2 series barrel. Bear in mind there were also several barrrel nut styles, make sure you get the correct (or at least complete) kit to fit or you mught have troubles getting the nut int/onto the shroud.

As for the barrel list on the box it sounds like the barrel was swapped out as there were several versions. A "nothing" (which is what you describe), a "V" (vent rib), & a "VR-H" (vent rib heavy barrel) with a full length underlug & an "H" Heavy non vented.

There was also a "Model 14" which was strait, no porkchop, but the front sight height was very different & it was fixed. Go here for a blow-by blow of all the variations & send him the link, maybe it'll help you both figure out what exactly he has.
http://www.danwessonforum.com/archive/shroud-types/
 
Last edited:
And let me tell you: this gun is easy to clean! You just remove the barrel and have an easy access to everything. Cleaning forcing cone is non issue at all. I like it!
Click to expand...
Consider: removing, cleaning, replacing the barrel requires you to re-set the cylinder gap, not to mention the work involved with screwing and unscrewing the barrel nut. (yes, this is not "serious work", however go with me for just a second...) all for the purpose of cleaning the revolver.

At minimum, you are likely to alter the point of aim so that upon re-assembly, the sights will maybe need re-adjustment.

I believe a thorough cleaning is absolutely in order for any gun that's new to you, but as a routine thing? I think it's a poor idea. As a once-a-year or once-every-ten-range session kind of thing, it's better suited. Obviously, if you are choosing to swap barrels for whatever reason, it's obviously a fine time to do such a cleaning.
 
While I agree that pulling the barrel every time is a bit much, once or twice a year, depending on how many rounds fired annually. I would mention that you can easily re-gap & tune for same POI by tweaking the muzzle nut. It only takes a few tests of 2 rounds, probably no more than 3 minutes.

I pull the side plate & do a thorough clean semi-annually. Other times there are easier ways to clean things like forcing cones.
 
Sevens, of all people on this fine forum you probably know better that anybody that I take cleaning ... hmmm... a little too far :-))) Although I am much more relaxed nowadays and don't go for a cleaning after every box of ammo I shoot.

But removing a barrel literally takes less than 2 minutes. I checked today when I replaced the 6" with 2" right on the range. The entire process was less than 5 minutes. The gap remains the same due to use of a special filler provided with a gun. Aiming does not change at all, at least from 25FT. I venture into a guess that shooting longer ranges will require some adjustment. But today my results with both barrels were just about the same without any adjustments between them.

This is a fun gun to shoot! I had no idea I would enjoy shooting a 2" so much. This was the first time I ever shot such a short barrel... to my surprise the kick was almost negligent. Perhaps because I used 38Spl ammo. But for some reason short barrel felt a lot more fun. May be because it's new to me. I have a feeling for next couple of months I will be switching these barrels all the time :-)))
 
Your sounding like a ole seasoned DW revolver shooter all ready. Your right about changing barrels and point of bullet impact. It does not change much till distance starts to get out there. I used mine for to many years for hunting and found I could run the cylinder gap very tight, 1 to 2 th's . But for normal use the 6ths gauge is good to use. I always used a little clp as lube it seems and one drop on barrel treads and just a good snugging down always held it tight for me. Go to EWkarms and check barrel assembly price and use that as a bench mark for used OEM barrel assemblies. EWK's prices are great. No use paying more. EWK's barrels are also a different twist that helps to stabilize heavier bullets- for us hunters??

Gota have some nice side view photos for use DW guys.
 
Your sounding like a ole seasoned DW revolver shooter all ready. Your right about changing barrels and point of bullet impact. It does not change much till distance starts to get out there. I used mine for to many years for hunting and found I could run the cylinder gap very tight, 1 to 2 th's . But for normal use the 6ths gauge is good to use.
Click to expand...

I sound like that because before I buy any gun I read a whole bunch of info about it. My theoretical knowledge exceeds my practical on-hand experience by a mile :-))) I am still fairly new to revolvers in general...Now, I have a question... or a few.

Firstly about the gap. I understand that closer gap provides better accuracy, but may result in locking of the cylinder as gun gets hot. The question is: will closer gap reduce the amount of leading from not-so-great ammo? I recently bought 500 rounds from a known reloader and not only they are dirty, but also they're leading so badly that after about 100 rounds it took me an hour to clean the end of the bore and forcing cone. Will tighter gap help with this kind of issue?

The second question is about stocks. DW target stocks are be beefier than SW and not as comfortable for me to hold. Are there any stocks for DW out there that match the size and shape of SW target stocks?

Thanks.
 
Cylinder gap:
If you check each chamber you'll find a very slight discrepancy, which is normal. I set 3~4 thou with regular feeler gauges, at the tightest chamber. Will it stop leading? No! but it will probably stop any lead spitting you may experience from the gap.

Leading is usually either the wrong lube, bullets driven too fast or a bad lot of alloy used for the casting. I've heard excessively hot burning powders can cause it as well. Because of this all you can do is live with it for now & clean the deposits out by brushing.

Stocks: There are several different stocks for the DW including some really nice custom ones from a site specific to the DW's. They do custom work too so they could probably make exaxctly what you want.
http://lbcustomgrips.com/

Another route you could take is to get Hogue wood monogrips which were made for the DW's as well. That's what I ended up doing. They are a very different shape from what you were thinking of, but they made a huge difference for me.
 
Thanks for a reply... I saw some finger-sculptured Hogue grips for DW in runner and exotic wood. May be I'll give one a try. Would you mind answering a few more questions? Is Model 15-2 that I apparently have called "small frame" or "large frame"? And also will front sights made for caliber .44 fit on 357 barrel shroud? They are the same shape, but I am not sure about the size...

Thanks.
 
DW used to sell a "carve your own" grip block, I will make a Jordan style grip for mine-"someday". Pachmayrs work fine for me.
I do not think adjusting the B/C gap with help with a leading problem, sounds like the bullets are too soft.
 
Aid- Yes a closer cylinder gap can cause a quicker build up of lead powder and copper residue. That's why I use it for hunting not play time at the range. But with time reloading for your DW you will find some powders burn much cleaner than others and shooting time can be lengthened with a tighter gap . But it will plug quicker than when the gap is at 6th's for sure.

If you want a option for a nice grip look to LB Custom grips for a many different size and shapes. And great prices. Hogues make some very nice grips too but with a limited choice of design . I use there soft rubber mono grip as recoil with one handed shots with some loads can be a handful with any slick wood grip.
http://lbcustomgrips.com/
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=lbcustom+grips&qpvt=lbcustom+grips&FORM=IGRE

Check out the danwessonforum too.
 
All the .22s, .38 Spl's & .357's are "small Frame" models. The .44 & the super mags are large frames.

I'm not sure about the sight blades interchamnging but I do know the grips do not because of a different shaped extension between the two frames.

I tried to post a pic of the Hogues on my small frame but Photobucket seems to be having a problem & I can't access my images.
 
Since front sight is so easy to remove I am thinking of buying a fiber optic sight to give it a try. What do you think, does it really help aiming when target shooting? I never had a gun with a fiber optic sights before...
 
My opinion will not be helpful -- I think they are an abomination! :eek: Doesn't mean you might not find them helpful, but I suppose I'm accustomed to a certain kind of sight picture.
 
I have noticed an interesting glitch on my DW. I have a little target on the wall that I use from the other side of the room for dry firing practice. But sometimes I get lazy and fire right from my chair, which creates about 30' angle, as target is higher up. I have noticed that every now and then (not on any specific count) the cylinder gets jammed.

After an inspection I found that occasionally the ammo pulls back because of the upward angle and cuts the edge of the frame shield. Look inside the yellow circle for better explanation. I re-checked with real ammo and results are the same. Higher the anger, quicker it happens. I never seen anything like that before, but almost all my experience is with SW revolvers and they have a counter-clockwise rotation. Anyone else noticed this glitch with their DW? :-)))

DW2.jpg
 
I have both the front & rear sights from the factory replaced with fiber-optics & I love them.
The EWK red front sight & the green fiber optic rear sight are, for me at least a huge improvment over the iron sights that were fitted.

All I look for is the "OOO" sight picture with the dead on hold. The "OOO" surrounded by black is visually very striking.

The rear sight for the Ruger GP-100 (I think, check before orderig) made by Millett is a drop in replacment, but you might, depending on the year of manufacture of your DW, need to replace one spring as some later DW's use a smaller spring & the Millett is too big. Brownells has the spring.

As for the hanging up I've not had that problem except with plastic snap-caps.

Sorry BTW I've been trying to post pics of the setup, but PhotoBucket is having PITA issues.
 
Last edited:
My older eye do tend to like a fiber optic front sight. I have a red and green from ewkarms and find ether help me with picking up the front sight a bit more clearly But then again when young the black front sight was fine too. Guess its a age /eye condition thing .

There is a chance your revolver has a bit of extra for and aft movement do to use and lack of oil . Check your cylinders for and aft movement to see how much wiggle it has.

You have me checking my two 15-2' I have 2 to 3 ths on one revolver and 4to 6 ths on the other. Looks like some bearing shims are in order for my most used revolver before it ends up like yours !! Both allow brass to slide back from the recessed cylinder but no hanging up as both mine have a bit of a smoothed edge to the ramp to easy the brass forword. Look for anything to smooth or debur on yours.

You may find your needs shim the cylinder back a few th's or debur any rough edges on the ramped area of the in your photo??

Loosen the barrel up to see how much wiggle you have between the crane and rear most movement when the cylinder is latched into place.

It does happen with a well used revolvers or one that has been run drier than it could be. They tend to not show wear easily.

bearing kit if needed- http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part.../hammer-shims/cylinder-bearings-prod9858.aspx

I to would have mic my extractor shaft to see if ether the sw or ruger shims will work as mine are still unadjusted from new.
 
>>My older eye do tend to like a fiber optic front sight.<<

Ditto that, and I too have installed a green F.O. front sight on my DW 715 from Eric. Makes a huge difference to me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top