Heck of a welcome,huh!? Please understand its not personal.
The content of your vids is .."controversial".
The engineering requirements on your chamber include size (length and diameter) Form (roundness,cylindricity" )Location/orientation,and surface finish.
Same with the ramp. I'd guess something like a 63 rms finish,and I'd bet it gets monitored at Glock with a profilometer.
I'd bet the gun was in spec.
"Ease of extraction?" With most semi-autos,even war finish chambers,what happens if you remove the extractor?And fire a round? Will it stay in the chamber? I'm thinking its coming out,blowback style.It will probably jam,because without the extractor,the ejector won't work.
The reamer left a round,true chamber to size.Did you use pin gauges to measure the dia before and after? Don't assume. What about taper,or out of round,or belling,or jugging?? We probably don't have an air gauge...
It would be interesting to set your barrel up in my Harig index fixture,true to a pin gauge in the bore,and see what the indicator say happened in the chamber.
Glocks have been known to bulge or blow cases from lack of case support.
Would you suppose your nice radius blend gives about .030 less case support?
You might be able to sell the shiny,but it comes at the price of form and dimension.
Think microscopic on the tool finish. What is the chamber as machined? Little lines go around the chamber like screw threads...sort of.They have peaks and valleys.
Assuming no major flaws,we might just cut the peaks off to plateaus. Take the hair off,if necessary.
Now,when polishing,what do you do when you change grit? Change direction. You want to cross the lines you are trying to remove.That felt and compound is traveling in the same direction as the cutter did,and it will polish down in the valleys,too.
How do I know this? I spent many years building plastic injection molds.
I was sent to Chicago by my employer to understudy a Master Tool and Die Finisher. He was polishing coining dies for a mint when I arrived.
Plastic molds have requirements similar to a chamber.Form and accuracy must be held. Appearance is critical,especially on clear parts. And those plastic walls,injected at shotgun chamber pressures really want to get stuck in the mold.
The basic technique you might try is"draw stoning". Parts come out of a mold in "direction of draw" That would be the stone stroke direction.
You might use a 600 or 800 grit to start on the ramp. Gesswein or equiv polishing stone.Lay it flat on your work and stroke. The stone will break down to conform. The high spots will come off first. Watch the low spots evenly fade.
In the chamber? If you must,...I might use a very fine round stone,but probably a lap. Brass tubing would work. I'd use diamond polishing pasre myself,but you may try your Polish-O-Ray. Put some kerosene with it to make a slurry.
Rest your barrel in a vee block. You need good light. Maybe magnification.
Stroke the brass tube chargedwith slurry flat on the chamber wall.
You must see your surface texture. That is your "depth gauge" Strokea strip about 10 minutes wide on the clock face,full length of the chamber. Then rotate your work,and do another strip. All the way round. (First job the Master gave me to work on was a multi-cavity mold that made plastic caps for spray paint cans! They were sinker EDM finish.)
If your tool finish texture is .0006,from peak to valley,and you take nearly all of it,you might leave .0002 of valleys.. You use your tool finish rms as a gauge as you polish. You sustain form,and you hold dimension to the low spots of the tool finish.And,BTW,we planned our tool finish to hit the dimension...
"The secret of a good polish is a good tool finish"
Now,you have a surface held true by the form of the stone or lap,and all the lines go the same direction as the feeding ammo.(Or extracting)
You knocked the high spots off,leaving a trace of the low.
I don't care if its shiny or not. Its smooth.
If you must buff it a few seconds,light pressure,fine compound,...I like an end brush,myself,for the ramp.Actually a nylon pistol brush and a bit of compound would cross my stone marks if you don't have polishing brushes. . Just a few seconds at maybe 300 rpm.
FWIW,when I cut a chamber,I might go back in with a soft,fine stone.(or not!) The finer small Sunnen hone stones work pretty good.Or I super glue a bit of Gesswein stone on a stick of brass . 600 grit or finer. I run the lathe slow,and stroke in and out. Look real close,you see cross hatch.And I might be in there 20 seconds.Less is more.
I DO NOT wind the lathe up and go in with sandpaper on a stick.
Here is an old trick. The mechanical pencils with the thin lead. Hard lead is best..If you use that as a probe,dragging it on a chamber wall or ramp..you'd be surpised how you can feel any glitch.If the pencil won't feel it,your bullet/brass wont feel it. And it won't leave a scratch.