How do i stop surface rust on reloading equipment

Here IMHO is the best in depth test of gun oil products and how well they work for different applications .
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

The one thing I've learned is just because it's the best for preventing corrosion does not mean it's best for guns . Some of the best corrosion preventer have wax or silicone in them . I personally don't want to continually apply a wax to the internal working parts of a firearm . It's bound to build up over time and gum up the works . That said the OP is not talking internal gun parts so any of them will do-ish .

The other thing to keep in mind is that some as UN pointed out will stay oily and tacky which would not be good on the internals of a powder measure .

I also have the Hornady powder measure and it almost instantly started rusting . Not sure why you would not make those drums out of stainless steel ???

I don't remember what I use for the powder measure but think it's Oneshot . I how ever use CorrosionX https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-Te...90496513&sr=8-4&keywords=corrosionx+lubricant and love the stuff . It has no wax and if left alone will dry one the surface rather then evaporate leaving a film of protection .

When I bought my Lee CTP I was told the 3 blued support rods/bars will rust . I wiped CorrosionX on them and they have not rusted . I put in on my outside pad locks and the ones that would stiffen up every year have not done so since I used CorrosionX on them . That was one application 3 years ago . Great stuff . The last thing I used it on were my LE Wilson case gauges . I bought the 9mm and 45 acp gauges a few months ago and they started rusting right away . I applied a coat of CorrosionX on them , wiped off and let dry . I can handle them and no rust has come back . Now that application is new Only 6 or 7 weeks but I've used them a lot in that time and have no finger print rust on them .

I like this stuff so much I use it on my bores if the firearm will be stored for long term . It's in the test linked above and was NOT one of the best performers but it's worked well for me .

Anyways that's my $.02
 
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One more plug for Corrosion X. Also it is practically a miracle product for things that should move, but don't. I've taken a trash can and cleared my bench of 90% of the common stuff that everyone loves; Corrosion X is on every bench in my shop. You won't see the aerosol cans very often, but they are especially useful for getting lube into tough spots.
 
For those like me that have a new respect for Hornady one shot after reading that corrosion test I linked . Keep in mind the Oneshot they used was NOT the standard red can case lube . It was Hornady's One Shot TAP HD-Extreme Gun Cleaner/Conditioner and Dry Lube
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/92...ner-conditioner-and-dry-lube-5-1-2-oz-aerosol

The other thing to point out is WD-40 Specialist has several products under the specialist product name . The one used in the test was Long term corrosion inhibitor . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00631GWS4/ref=twister_B0083V8KIW?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Also after reading the test again I'm actually surprised how bad CorrosionX did in comparison to most others . I say this because I use it on a daily bases and it's been great for me . The one thing I noticed that's different is I use the pump trigger spray bottle while the test used the aerosol spray can . Maybe the aerosol goes on thin and evaporates quicker . Not sure but based on my use It should not have failed so quickly .
 
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It's also an issue of how the test was conducted. Does your equipment get subjected to similar treatment? In general, a number of things are fine for dry indoor conditions that won't cut it outdoors. A couple of more worth mentioning and designed specifically for corrosion resistance in storage are LPS-2 and LPS-3, intended for up to one year and up to two years protection, respectively. If DIY-guy follows up with his third test set being kept indoors, I won't be surprised if, for a number of products, he gets no corrosion in a practical time frame in that situation.
 
For those who use the Hornady One Shot stuff:

http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/msds/OneShotGunCleanerandDryLube-aerosol.pdf

Some of the highlights:

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
Page 1 of 7
HMC-004
Prepared to OSHA, ACC, ANSI, NOHSC, WHMIS, 2001/58/EC & 1272/20
08/EC Standards
MSDS Revision:
1.0 MSDS Revision Date: 11/01/201
1
1. PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION
CHEMICAL RESPONSE CARD:
1.1 Product Name:
Hornady
®
One Shot
®
Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
RESPONSE
TEAM PPE:
1.2 Chemical Name:
See ingredients in Section 3
1.3 Synonyms:
#9990, #99901
WHMIS:
1.4 Trade Names:
Hornady
®
One Shot
®
Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube (aerosol)
1.5 Product Use:
Dry Film Lubricant
HEALTH:
2
1.6 Manufacturer's Name:
Hornady Manufacturing Company
FLAMMABILITY:
4
1.7 Manufacturer’s Address:
P.O. Box 1848, Grand Island, NE 68802 USA
PHYSICAL HAZARDS:
0
1.8 Business Phone:
+1 (308) 382-1390 / +1 (308) 382-5761
PERSONAL PROTECTION:
B
1.9 Emergency Phone:
CHEMTREC: +1 (800) 424-9300 / +1 (703) 527-3887
(CCN 10740)
2. IDENTIFICATION OF RISKS
2.1 Hazard Identification:
Danger! Extremely flammable aerosol. Vapor Harmful.
Excessive inhalation of vapors may cause dizziness,
nausea, and headache, loss of consciousness or even death if
exposure is prolonged. May be harmful or fatal
if swallowed. Repeated exposure may present additional hazards. Flammable liquid and vapor. Danger of
serious damage to health by prolonged exposure through inhalation. Breathing vapors may cause drowsiness
and dizziness. Causes eye and skin irritation. Toxic to aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse
effects in the aquatic environment. Possible risk of impaired fertility. Aspiration hazard if swallowed. Can enter
lungs and cause damage.
Hazard Statements
(H): H220 – Extremely flammable gas. H225 - Highly flammable liquid and vapor. H304 -
May be fatal if swallowed and enters
airways. H315 - Causes
skin irritation. H336 - May cause drowsiness or
dizziness. H361 - Suspected of damaging fertility or
the unborn child. H373 - May cause damage to organs
through prolonged or repeated exposure. H411 - Toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects.
Precautionary Statements
(P): P210 - Keep away from heat/sparks
/open flames/hot surfaces – No smoking.
P261 - Avoid breathing dust/fume/gas/mist/vapors/spray.
P273 - Avoid release to the environment. P281 - Use
personal protective equipment as required. P301+310 - IF SWALLOWED - Immediately call a POISON CENTER or
doctor/physician. P331 - Do NOT induce vomiting.
Poison Schedule: None. HazChem Code: 2[Y]E
2.2
Routes of Entry:
Inhalation:
Click to expand...

Target Organs:
Blood, central nervous system, liver, respiratory system, eyes, skin.
Click to expand...
 
I like Hornady one shot and use it all the time. My powder hopper and multiple die sets were degreased when purchased with One shot and all got surface rust.
Nuff said.
 
John Deere makes a product that was designed to prevent rust on hydraulic cylinder rams.

It's called "Fluid Film" and it should be perfect for this application.
http://www.shopgreendealer.com/John-Deere-Fluid-Film-Lubricant-TY22032.html

John Deere Fluid Film has been endorsed for use on John Deere equipment.

It is a superior lubricant, a rust and corrosion protecting, and a long-term penetrant.

It can be used on farm equipment as well as other types of vehicles. Fluid Film keeps snow and ice from building up on moving parts, and cleans wire cables and belts. Use it on work boots to help repel water, or to clean battery terminals. Plus, Fluid Film is environmentally friendly, solvent-free, and non-toxic.
Click to expand...
 
Boeshield T-9 is the way to go. Very popular in the boating community. Not cheap but does the job. Will lubricate as well as leaving a film of coating that will protect against oxidation.


https://boeshield.com
Click to expand...
I did an extensive test years ago in my back yard (the rust capital of the world) on milled (flycut) cold rolled steel. It was then sectioned off and surfaced ground and degreased using acetone and lacquer thinner. I coated sections with automotive polish, WD40, motor oil, boeshield and Rig. It was then put in my back yard in South Florida with the humidity in the 90%'s. The auto wax and WD40 rusted over night. Motor oil a night or two later. I was never able to get the Boeshield and Rig to rust. Not sure if Rig is still sold, but I like it better than Boeshield since it doesn't leave that waxy finish. Boeshield is great for spraying battery terminals also.
 
Not the same. I mentioned it in my earlier post because I was sorry DIY-Guy hadn't included it in his tests. There are two rust inhibiting formulas from LPS plus, IIRC, they make a rust inhibiting grease, too. LPS-2 is a thin brown liquid which I believe was the OEM source of Birchwood Casey Sheath. It has a very distinct odor. LPS-3 is like a thickened version that comes out liquid but becomes a wax like Boeshield does when the carrier evaporates. However, where Boeshield is clear and relatively odorless, LPS-3 is brown and has the same odor as LPS-2. I believe it is a vapor rust inhibiting additive that is responsible for the odor. LPS-2 is good for up to a year of protection according to the bottle, and LPS-3 is for two years. Both are also lubricants. Their pure rust inhibitors (ProCyon and HardCoat) are not.
 
Hornady One Shot

Metal god: Here IMHO is the best in depth test of gun oil products and how well they work for different applications .
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

That’s how I found Hornady One Shot Dry Lube. It works. It’s easy to use. It lasts. It dries, well, dry with no visible residue.

Works as well on my Hornady powder metering barrel as it does on hard-to-get spots in my pistols.

[I did stop using One Shot on the LnL powder coated inside, preferring instead to clean with rubbing alcohol and lube pouring dry graphite through so powder slides through.]
 
That's the same test already linked to in post 21 and it is also posted on this board in the Gear and Accessories forum, where it is a sticky. It's also the same test about which I commented that I was sorry to sehttps://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546316e that the author had not tested the LPS products. Apparently the window on suggestions closed before I became aware of the proposed study, for which DIY guy solicited suggestions in that same forum.
 
That’s how I found Hornady One Shot Dry Lube.
Click to expand...

Yes but was it the correct one you found . When I first read that article I had already been using Hornady Oneshot dry case lube and wrongfully thought there was only one . Turns out the product used in the test is not the same as One shot case lube . I linked the product tested earlier but will again here as well as the other Oneshot products

Actual product tested
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/92...ner-conditioner-and-dry-lube-5-1-2-oz-aerosol

Product I thought at first they meant
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/101274264/hornady-one-shot-case-lube-aerosol

Most Oneshot products
http://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=Hornady+Oneshot+&userItemsPerPage=48

The same goes for all the top performers . They all have multiple products under the same general product line/name but only one of them was tested .
 
I use what I have used for years I coat all bare metal surfaces with a light coat of Vaseline, like Shimpy called Florida the rust capital of the world it is. All my stuff is in the garage gave it a light coat and no new rust ( second hand equip. so had some rust) use it on the machine table of my drill press, on the bolts on my flag pole haven't had a problem. We used petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on all exposed surfaces on all the ships I was on when I was in the Navy worked there no reason why it wouldn't work here and it does.
 
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