Hello all! I recently bought a Henry H010 45-70 government and was looking for the round counts and problems with parts wearing out. I have a problem shooting guns that are new and I just want to know that this gun will be handed down to my children ( with proper care and maintenence ). Thanks in advance for the replys!
Henry H010 45-70 round count and durability
- Thread starter T_PRO_Z
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I only have a Henry H001, it was my first rifle and Henry repeating arms had only been established a few years by then.
The one thing that has broken was the magazine tube follower breaking.
I contacted one of their customer service team, they couldn't offer me a new follower to repair it, but did tell me they would mail me a new one. About a week later I had a new magazine tube with a beefier follower.
So pretty outstanding customer service there. I wouldn't worry about it.
The one thing that has broken was the magazine tube follower breaking.
I contacted one of their customer service team, they couldn't offer me a new follower to repair it, but did tell me they would mail me a new one. About a week later I had a new magazine tube with a beefier follower.
So pretty outstanding customer service there. I wouldn't worry about it.
As far as "fact" goes, you need to separate process and design from material.
Cast is not a material, it's a process.
Any number of different materials (and steel formulations in the context of guns here) can be cast.
Cast parts do not in & of themselves use "lesser" materials.
Cast parts are not in & of themselves "lesser" parts.
A cast part can be, with the right design & material formula, the equal of a forged part, in a specific application.
(Don't wander off on a tangent, I did NOT say identically-dimensioned parts.)
A forged part is not automatically a "better" part for a given application.
A forged part is not always & automatically either superior FOR A GIVEN APPLICATION, OR NEEDED FOR A GIVEN APPLICATION.
"A forging is a higher quality material" is NOT a fact.
A forging isn't even a "material", it's a process.
A properly designed & finished cast frame, made of quality cast steel, doesn't have to take a back seat to a forged frame.
People were whining about those absolutely inferior cast (gasp!) Rugers 40 years ago.
My inferior 1975 cast Ruger Security-Six .357 is still running strong.
My inferior cast Ruger GP .357s are stronger than my forged Smiths.
Ruger's inferior cast bolt-action rifle frames blowing up make the headlines daily. (NOT!)
My inferior 25-year-old cast Ruger International .30-06 can hang with any new forged Winchester or Remington bolt-action frame without hanging its head in shame.
I'll ask again, since I have a steel Henry .45-70, a steel Henry .44 Mag, and had a steel Henry 1860 Model here for a bit- what inferior MATERIAL is used?
Not talking about PROCESS (cast), asking about MATERIAL (steel).
Denis
Cast is not a material, it's a process.
Any number of different materials (and steel formulations in the context of guns here) can be cast.
Cast parts do not in & of themselves use "lesser" materials.
Cast parts are not in & of themselves "lesser" parts.
A cast part can be, with the right design & material formula, the equal of a forged part, in a specific application.
(Don't wander off on a tangent, I did NOT say identically-dimensioned parts.)
A forged part is not automatically a "better" part for a given application.
A forged part is not always & automatically either superior FOR A GIVEN APPLICATION, OR NEEDED FOR A GIVEN APPLICATION.
"A forging is a higher quality material" is NOT a fact.
A forging isn't even a "material", it's a process.
A properly designed & finished cast frame, made of quality cast steel, doesn't have to take a back seat to a forged frame.
People were whining about those absolutely inferior cast (gasp!) Rugers 40 years ago.
My inferior 1975 cast Ruger Security-Six .357 is still running strong.
My inferior cast Ruger GP .357s are stronger than my forged Smiths.
Ruger's inferior cast bolt-action rifle frames blowing up make the headlines daily. (NOT!)
My inferior 25-year-old cast Ruger International .30-06 can hang with any new forged Winchester or Remington bolt-action frame without hanging its head in shame.
I'll ask again, since I have a steel Henry .45-70, a steel Henry .44 Mag, and had a steel Henry 1860 Model here for a bit- what inferior MATERIAL is used?
Not talking about PROCESS (cast), asking about MATERIAL (steel).
Denis
So NASCAR engines have forged crankshafts, pistons and other components when a cast piece could do as well?
Diesels have forged connecting rods, camshafts and crankshafts, wonder why?
S&W revolvers are more trim and less bulky than a comparable Ruger.
Is a 500 S&W X frame cast?
Ruger barrels and cylinders are not cast, wonder why? They are made from bar stock which some consider a forging.
You can think that a cast part (of the same material) is the equal of a forging, I know better.
Diesels have forged connecting rods, camshafts and crankshafts, wonder why?
S&W revolvers are more trim and less bulky than a comparable Ruger.
Is a 500 S&W X frame cast?
Ruger barrels and cylinders are not cast, wonder why? They are made from bar stock which some consider a forging.
You can think that a cast part (of the same material) is the equal of a forging, I know better.
We're not talking about auto parts or revolver cylinders.
A cast frame is not automatically inferior.
Ruger rifle frames are respected industry-wide for their strength & I have never heard of one failing because it used "inferior" cast steel.
I will ask again- what "lesser" material is Henry using?
If your only argument is Cast=Lesser, you're sadly mistaken.
Denis
A cast frame is not automatically inferior.
Ruger rifle frames are respected industry-wide for their strength & I have never heard of one failing because it used "inferior" cast steel.
I will ask again- what "lesser" material is Henry using?
If your only argument is Cast=Lesser, you're sadly mistaken.
Denis
Why can't a part be forged badly or cast done excellent?
Quality control is the important thing. Both cast and forged parts done with modern technology with excellent quality control are as good as their manufacture and heat treatment, and for most things you'll never know the difference.
I think Henry makes a good product and if you or your kids shoots one enough to wear it out through honest use, as long as they are still around they will make it right for you. My only experience dealing with them was one of the best customer service experiences I've had with any company, firearm related or not.
Quality control is the important thing. Both cast and forged parts done with modern technology with excellent quality control are as good as their manufacture and heat treatment, and for most things you'll never know the difference.
I think Henry makes a good product and if you or your kids shoots one enough to wear it out through honest use, as long as they are still around they will make it right for you. My only experience dealing with them was one of the best customer service experiences I've had with any company, firearm related or not.
A very perceptive question and one that escapes many people.
This is a topic where a little knowledge results in strong opinions without facts to support them.
It is true that given identical materials, identical heat-treatments, and identical dimensions, a high-quality forging will likely be somewhat stronger than a casting of similar quality.
A perceptive person will note all the caveats in that statement even without their being emphasized with boldface text. The average person only sees "A forging is stronger than a casting." and many people will extrapolate that to "Castings are inferior to forgings." Both of those takeaways are incorrect even though they're loosely based on a true statement.
In fact, a good quality casting can be not just stronger, but MUCH stronger than a poor quality forging even when the materials are identical. That's without getting into issues like the properties of various materials (there are literally thousands of steel alloys and each alloy has different properties) or how heat-treating affects toughness and hardness of a given alloy.
Make a high-quality forging from one steel and a high-quality casting from a different steel and the casting could easily be stronger based on the differences in the properties of the two steels.
Make a high-quality forging and a high-quality casting from the same steel and the casting could easily be stronger if it is heat-treated differently from the forging.
Even more to the point, what many people fail to realize is that most of the steel used in guns is quite soft in the overall scheme of things. A good knife blade will have an RC hardness that is in the mid 50s to the low 60s. In general, centerfire receivers and barrels are no harder than the low to mid 30s and rimfire barrels can be as soft as the mid 20s.
In other words, there's no point in quibbling over incremental differences in hardness and toughness due to the method used to form the part. It's almost certain that the part won't be as hard or as tough as it could theoretically be made to be.
What really makes the difference in how well a product holds up is the manufacturer's dedication to producing quality products and the level of their commitment to stand behind the products they make. A manufacturer like that will put out a product you can buy without concern--and that's true whether they use cast parts, MIM parts, forged parts, plastic, steel, or aluminum.
For a legacy gun you can't leave just one gun to N children.
Why do you have problems shooting guns that are new?
You could just buy a Jap Browning 1886 off gunbroker. That will appreciate.
I'd avoid one with lawyer engineering such as extraneous safeties like new Winchesters and Marlin. Although I have a stainless guide gun that is a great gun. I plugged out the safety. It's no fun to shoot heavy stuff in but way fun with cowboy light loads.
I've got nothing but good to say about my 357 and 44 Henry even with stout loads.
Why do you have problems shooting guns that are new?
You could just buy a Jap Browning 1886 off gunbroker. That will appreciate.
I'd avoid one with lawyer engineering such as extraneous safeties like new Winchesters and Marlin. Although I have a stainless guide gun that is a great gun. I plugged out the safety. It's no fun to shoot heavy stuff in but way fun with cowboy light loads.
I've got nothing but good to say about my 357 and 44 Henry even with stout loads.