help me build my dream reloading setup for a first timer

Considering the age of this thread and your specific needs you may do better to simply start a new thread or maybe get a moderator to split your post off into a new thread. You may also get some pointers as to how to treat investments in reloading equipment as part of the business, such as teaching reloading classes.

Ron
 
A Dillon 650 is the way to go for a progressive press and there customer service is the best.

Also you might want to consider a good single stage for working up loads. A Rock Chucker or a Redding press.

For casting a Lyman Mag 25 furnace ... pick your molds carefully. There are some really good mold companys out there.

Ask in the bullet casting section on molds. Them guys there are really good about helping out.

Personally i have not seen any panick buying for reloading components lately. There are plentiful in my area.

Welcome to the world of handloading....
 
I'd recommend putting this in a new thread too.

Also list approximately how many rounds of each caliber you're going to load.

Good luck.
 
I just want to list the mistakes that I, and others I know well, have made when reloading. It may not make your choices easier but it might.

1. Contaminated primers - - - - this happened to me when I was handling each primer before insertion into the case. It cause misfires and frustration. I even went to using a pair of tweezers without success. The primer feeder tubes didn't always drop a primer so I could not trust them. I went to using an RCBS hand primer that you never have to touch a primer and have had no problems since.

2. Seating primers - - - - seating primers with a press without examining them is fine once everything is set perfectly but high primers and crushed primers are never a good thing. Using the hand primer I can run my finger over each primer as I set the case in the block and know it is right.

3. Powder charges - - - - I put all my primed cartridges into a loading block and charge them all before going on to seating bullets. I can visually check powder levels compared to the others around each cartridge and see if a level is high or low. No guessing and no "faith" in a mechanical plungers accuracy. I have never loaded a double charge but I have missed charging a case and it is easy to do. If you check them all at the same time you get good loads.

4. Split and cracked cases - - - - Every step in my reloading process is another chance to find something I missed. I have found split necks on pistol brass only after they were flared - just before charging them with powder. I have found body splits after sizing that I didn't see after polishing.
(you are likely to miss subtle splits and cracks using a progressive press)

5. Bullet seating depths - - - - Just because you have used the book to set your overall length does not mean it will fit in your chamber, especially with auto pistols. You need to check the first round to see if it will chamber. If it does then you can likely load the rest and it will be fine. If you change make, type ot weight of bullets then you need to check again. Trust me, it is easier to pull and reseat one bullet a few times than it is to do it with 150 or more rounds.

6. Crimping - - - - If your gun has a tubular magazine, are shooting a semi-auto rifle, or a high recoil revolver then you need to crimp. Crimping introduces one more variable into the making of accurate ammo. Yes, neck tension will vary and can cause inaccuracy too but crimping just adds to that. Crimp when you have to but otherwise don't do it! (there is likely to be some discussion over this because some feel it evens out the neck tension. For me it did the opposite)

These are some of the reasons that I sold my progressive press and kept my Rock Chucker and Lyman presses.
 
I started out of a Dillon 650. And I knew absolutely nothing about reloading. I bought it since I wanted to buy once, cry once and I wanted the powder check system. When I was learning how to use the press, I broke down the the reloading process into easily managed processes like with a single stage. Once I knew what I was doing, I went full progressive. About the only problems I had was with spilled powder, high primers and figuring out how the press worked and where to look when I had a problem. The biggest problem I run into with it these days is some high primers. So I visually check all my cases when done. I used my 650 for .40, .45, 6.8, .308 and .223/5.56. I use a single stage for my precision cartridges and a M1 Garand.

The 650, 550 and 1050 are all great presses.
 
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