Heavy Barrel 6.5 Creedmore Suggestion

Well those mags are cheaper, but I still don't think I'd choose the Boyd's At-One over the other factory chassis style stocks. If I were going to buy a $600 chassis like the X-Ray 180 chassis that you are interested in I wouldn't be putting a $400 barreled action in it. I'd be building a rifle from the action up, starting with a custom action.
 
Taylor have you fired one of those cheap barreled actions yet? I have one in the cheap factory stock. 10 shot groups at 100 yards with sand bags can be covered with a quarter that has room to spare. That is with a target that shifts in the wind as well. Another person showed up with one of the high dollar chassis rifles. His did a bit over 1 MOA at 100 yards with two brands of match ammo.

The Savage will hold its own with many provided the shooter can do their part. I have as of yet to see a Savage that would not drive tacks right out of the box. That includes a cheap .243 Win with a thin sporter barrel. With Federal Fusion it shot half MOA out of the box using the Nikon scope on it.
 
m&p45acp10+1 said:
Taylor have you fired one of those cheap barreled actions yet?
Click to expand...

I shoot the cheap rifles all the time, in fact I have a Howa .308 I just bought for $400 and dropped into a Howa Alpine stock that I paid $200 for used. I also shoot a lot of old Stevens 200 rifles, most have new barrels on them now but I still run use a .223 and .243 in factory plastic stocks and they shoot great. However, I still wouldn't buy a $600+ stock and drop a factory barreled action in it. I just think the factory chassis on the most of the other rifles suggested here are better than the At-One stock, and they are easily degradable for less money than buying a new $600+ chassis.

I have three factory barreled actions in McMillan stocks that most would cost $500-700 to buy, but I picked them all up used and don't have more than $400 for the most expensive and less than $200 on the cheapest. The problem is they all but one shot great before dropping them in McMillan stocks, the only reason the other didn't was because it came to me without a stock. The other was a M670 Winchester that I sent the factory stock off to have a recoil pad installed, the stock was lost and I never got it back. The last one was a M70 EW that I hated the B&C stock on and almost sold the whole rifle before I ran across the McMillan it sits in now, sold the B&C and it made my used Edge FW stock the cheapest of them all.
 
The beauty of buying a nice stock is much like a good scope....you can always take it with you on the next build ( just keeping that action which can be paired with very good barrels.) I also will chime in that I am 2 for 2 on the Boyds stocks and the added value they bring if you take the time and bed your barrel/action into them. I was wary but both provided me with inexpensive upgrades that instantly made a impact on the way the rifle shot. Then when I went back and did the DIY bedding with the kits...wow. I will be buying a Chassis MDT for my Savage 12FV as a comparison to the Thumbhole Varmit style stock from Boyds. Mainly for the periods of time when my hands/wrists are flaring up ( Rheumatoid Arthritis) and I need a pistol grip style to keep shooting :) And also cause I will no doubt pick up another 12 FV in the future in either 223 or 6.5....and name it the Varminator
 
Is there a reason why Boyd's is not a good choice or why you would avoid it? Not saying I am stuck on Boyd's, just don't know enough about the subject of building a rifle to know why certain stocks are preferred/not preferred/not a good choice or how it effects the rifle as a whole apart from the other parts/components.

You can tell me I am way over my head... no hard feelings if I am, perhaps I am. Lol.

What would be a better choice stock then or what would a "better" build be then? Is the Howa still a good choice? How well can a build be with $1200 not counting the scope (have money aside for scope).

As you can see I still have much to learn and just hoping to see if I can get pointed to the right direction.

Not looking to get a super rifle (don't know what other term to use) but hopefully you get the idea.

I looked up rifle builds online and came across many but this one showed a picture diagram. https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2018/3/19/build-your-own-precision-bolt-action-rifle/
 
I don't mind the Boyd's stock at all, I just don't think it's a great stock. The At-One is a poor attempt at a chassis stock and while functional it is limited. You're limited on pistol grip and forearm styles. Same with the other chassis the X-Ray 180 you linked, it is severely limited as to what you can do with it. I just think a chassis system like MDT that allows parts interchangeability is a far better option.

Also I don't think you're in over your head, but I don't think you are considering everything. The barreled action I turned you onto is $400 but you need to add probably around $35 for transfer fees, so it's now $435. The stock is $189, but it looks like they sell the extra forearm and pistol grip seperately, so you'll be over $200 for that with shipping. Next buy the DBM bottom metal and two magazines like you linked and you're in for another $120 at least plus add your rail for another $60. Now you have a total of around $810 and you'll still need to assemble your parts. When you assemble everything you would be better off bedding your barreled action into that At-One stock which if you don't do yourself will set you back at least another $125 and that puts you to $935 +/- for your rifle.

That's why I've said you're better off buying one of the Chassis style rifles you linked earlier. At least the stocks on the ones you linked are more modular and you can change out a few parts to make them more custom fit to you. Right now the ABA Howa 6.5 Creed is far cheaper than anything you can put together yourself, and connects a lot of things you seem to be looking for. It also retains the ability to upgrade butt stock, pistol grip, and forearm. Now you might want to thread it for a suppressor or brake, but you'll still have less in the rifle than if you start with the barreled action I linked you going the route you seem to be wanting. Plus you can sell off the parts you don't like to help recoup some money to buy the ones you do. That just isn't an option with the X-Ray 180 or At-One stock.

If you just wanted to put together a varmint/bench rifle by putting it in the Boyd's, bedding it, and putting your optics of choice on top then what I linked is still a good option. However, I don't really think that's the rifle you're going for. These are the reasons, I'm now trying to steer you away from the direction I originally sent you.
 
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Thank you for the reply.

I knew I was missing something but didn't know what it was and yes I'm also looking for a particular look. Guess now I know why the other posts were suggestion to just get one instead already built instead of building one myself.

Thank you for the link you provided. Guess will have to decide which one to go with now.
 
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