Gun break-in

http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9

I've used Ed's Red for years both as a cleaner and as a lubricant.

Ed worked for the "Rifleman" magazine and Ruger for years, and came up with the original formula after consulting with an organic chemist. It's cheap, it works and you can make it up yourself! Ed worked with an organic chemist to ensure compatibility and effectiveness.

Ed's Red Cleaner: Equal parts by volume of: ATF transmission fluid, Kerosene, Turpentine or Mineral Spirits, and Acetone. He says the addition of lanolin to the mix helps with adhesion. As I don't add lanolin, I can't say how much he's recommending. Use the link to see his recommendations.


Ed's Red Lubricant/Protectent: Equal parts of ATF and Kerosene. It's ok to divert as much as 4 oz. per gallon, while making up the cleaner recipe without affecting its properties.

Regards, Rodfac
 
I have always used CLP since that is what I used in the Military and it worked well.

I ran out of CLP and used some synthetic motorcycle oil I had in the garage last time I cleaned my AK-47.

The "motor oil" seems to work a lot better and is for sure cheaper.

Also someone above said CLP was used since Vietnam, I think LSA was used by the Military until the 80s when they started using CLP. I know I went through basic training in 1978 and we used LSA, which was crap back then.
 
I just looked at the price of that CLP and Breakfree stuff..
No thanks...
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False economy, and a prime example of limited thinking.
"Condoms? Nah, I'll let her worry about that..."

How much is even one of your firearms worth?
How much is one box of (even reloaded) ammo?
Good chemicals and good cleaning equipment are just part of the equation.

Sure, you can go cheap...use a rusty Brillo pad and old McDonald's french fry oil for all I care.

You can also use a ballon for a condom...or so I am told :rolleyes:

I will not endorse any of the above. Of course, I also paid for my own vasectomy. And I didn't choose the cheapest doc in the phone book. Ten years later, so far, so good. :)

Just something to think about...
 
because we all know the Germans make good stuff!

orionengnr said:
Quote:

False economy, and a prime example of limited thinking.
"Condoms? Nah, I'll let her worry about that..."

How much is even one of your firearms worth?
How much is one box of (even reloaded) ammo?
Good chemicals and good cleaning equipment are just part of the equation.

Sure, you can go cheap...use a rusty Brillo pad and old McDonald's french fry oil for all I care.

You can also use a ballon for a condom...or so I am told

I will not endorse any of the above. Of course, I also paid for my own vasectomy. And I didn't choose the cheapest doc in the phone book. Ten years later, so far, so good.

Just something to think about...
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Please explain the the difference between commercial 'gun oil' and common 10W40 engine oil... Wait, don't because i will.. There is no difference except the price, packaging and marketing technique. You just fell for marketing 101 in its most basic form.
shamwow1128.jpg


You call it cheap. I call it being resourceful.. Go ahead and use the commercial gun products if you've got the money to burn - just don't try and suggest they're any better, 'cause you're dead wrong. I've got 20+ years of experience using conventional and synthetic 10W40 engine oil along with Hoppe's with excellent results
 
Just wondering!
Has anyone ever tried chainsaw bar oil as a lube on the rails of semi-auto's instead of grease?

I use nothing but Stihl chainsaw bar oil in my chainsaws and it has doubled the life of chains and bars. It doesn't sling off like thinner c/s oils.

As far as something being a lube and solvent all in one. Try ATF(transmission fluid). It had lubrication as well as detergent/cleaning agents.
 
Many people will laugh at the idea of using ATF for gun lube but it really does a very good job. The demands in an automatic transmission are pretty heavy duty. It is not the best anti corrosive oil out there but it does dissolve carbon and lubricates very well. I was surprised when I tried it. It also makes a very good lubricant for locks, pocketknives and most of the applications normally filled by 3 in one oil. And it is inexpensive and available everywhere. I still like Breakfree CLP for cleaning and wiping down a blued gun. Breakfree Collector is a very good anti corrosive product. Maker claims it will protect bare steel for 5 years and does not turn into a gummy varnish over time or evaporate off.
 
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You can also use a ballon for a condom...or so I am told
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(puffing out chest) Well, it would have to be a really big balloon....:D

OK, I kid.:o



Most "gun oils" are just straight 10w with no additives. Engine oils have lots of additives. If you think about engine oils, in the past 30 years they have come miles and miles in creating a formulation that cleans, protects and lubricates. There has been literally billions of research and development dollars invested in engine oils. Where "gun oil" is still the same old same old that it was when Great Granddad was learning how to clean and lube his new 1903 rifle in the army.

Use what ever you want, but I prefer a modern engine oil (dino or synthetic) over a straight weight gun oil. I also use the new fangled lube/rust protection sprays and especially like EEZOX in that role. Also use straight silicone spray dry lube where it makes most sense. In most cases it hardly matters what you use as long as you use something.
 
Many people will laugh at the idea of using ATF for gun lube but it reallt does a very good job.
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I've had guns brought to me that someone has badly neglected. Caked with lead, gun powder residue, even rust, and want to kow if I can do anything with them. Seems that Black powder guns can be the worse for long term neglect.
First thing I do is check if loaded and the second thing is tear gun down and soak it in ATF for as long as it takes.

On new guns ATF helps break down the packing oils/greases and provide's a descent lubrication.

Hydraulic oil is also good to use as its high in detergent agents and isn't red:rolleyes:.
 
Drail wrote:

This whole concept of a gun needing to be broken in is absurd. It's not a small block Chevy. It either works out of the box or it doesn't. There will be wear on moving parts when used like any other mechanical device but it's not going to last any longer or function any better because you "broke it in" with some special lube. Just shoot it and stop worrying about it. Lube it, shoot it, clean it, wipe your nasty fingerprints off of it, lightly oil the exterior. I would love to meet the person who came up with this "break in" foolishness
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Great point. :)

I agree but it seems there a few manufacturers whose handguns "require a break-in period". I'm not going to name them but I think everyone knows who they are.

Me. I like to clean off the packing grease, lube my pistols and run 'em right out of the box.

Something about pistols that require a "break-in" makes me very leery of them.

For example, why were they shipped from the factory not ready to go?
 
agree but it seems there a few manufacturers whose handguns "require a break-in period". I'm not going to name them but I think everyone knows who they are.
Me. I like to clean off the packing grease, lube my pistols and run 'em right out of the box.
Something about pistols that require a "break-in" makes me very leery of them.
For example, why were they shipped from the factory not ready to go?
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Really? Most all (I say it that way in case one doesn't) auto mfg require an engine break in. A car is more expensive than most guns, why can they ship one to me and have me break it in and a gun mfg can't? Engines at least have a oiling system built in to them. A gun might sit on a shelf for years before it finds a home, they are packed accordingly. The breaking in is, surprise, SHOOTING something you were going to do anyway so what's the problem? One or two extra cleanings? Really, get over it.

BTW: you already said you clean and lube before shooting so you're all ready doing some of it!
 
Really? Most all (I say it that way in case one doesn't) auto mfg require an engine break in.
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Not so much anymore. Actually, not for the past 15-20 years in many cases. CNC machining is so much better now, it's easy to hold tolerances in high volumes that used to be special hand finish one off jobs (blue print) before. The recommended break in is currently for the ring and pinion differential gears. The tolerance on them is about zero and they heat up as they polish each other. That is why you are told to vary your speed initially, so the gears have time to cool off. Jumping on the freeway for 500 miles in a new car can really heat the differential fluid. To the point of turning it black within 50-100 miles.


Some guns actually do need break-in periods. Mostly lower-end guns, but still.
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My experience is that break in periods that are actually needed are for high end custom guns that are intentionally held to the very low small side of the tolerance spec. They are "tight" and any small burr or lip will bind them up. IMO, the Smith should have hand cycled the piece to final polish them to a buttery smoothness before sending it to the customer. But that would cost more $$$ and might impact the finish. Most high end gun customers want to see that expensive piece of art in a pristine condition and for the $$ paid who can blame them? The low end guns (at least the cheap one's I've dealt with) had "issues" that needed to be corrected. They failed because they were made poorly and that was found early. Different than a break in - at least to me.

Nearly all commercial guns from reputable manufacturers will operate at 100% reliability after a pre-shooting cleaning and lube. A few will have escaped QC with problems and a few will have a non-favorable tolerance stack-up that causes issues. That's why a gun should always be shot for 1-200 rounds before it is a known good one. The consequences of a failure are too serious, so as R. Reagan said, "Trust, but verify".
 
Not so much anymore. Actually, not for the past 15-20 years in many cases. CNC machining is so much better now, it's easy to hold tolerances in high volumes that used to be special hand finish one off jobs (blue print) before. The recommended break in is currently for the ring and pinion differential gears. The tolerance on them is about zero and they heat up as they polish each other. That is why you are told to vary your speed initially, so the gears have time to cool off. Jumping on the freeway for 500 miles in a new car can really heat the differential fluid. To the point of turning it black within 50-100 miles.
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Actually, I think most new cars still have a prescribed engine break-in period. I know my MINI did, and looking at BMW owner's manuals, it's there too: Vary both road *and* engine speed for the first 1200 miles, keeping the engine RPM below 4,500. And BMW is no slouch in engine-building, so their manufacturing tolerances are probably as tight as anyone's.

The Corvette owner's manual has a prescribed engine break-in as well (keep it below 4,000 RPM for the first 500 miles, but don't lug the engine), as do the new Mercedes models (in the C-class, it's suggested to stay below 2/3rd of maximum RPM for the first 1,000 miles while varying engine and road speeds.) There's a break-in procedure in the Cadillac STS owner's manual, the Dodge Caliber owner's manual, and the Honda Civic owner's manual. In fact, I haven't found a make or model yet that doesn't prescribe an engine break-in period. It's seven-for-seven so far, so I'm going to quit looking. :D

It's true that manufacturing tolerances are much higher than they used to be, and totally ignoring the break-in recommendations won't turn your engine into a weak, oil-consuming mess the way it would decades ago, but there is still break-in wear between moving parts as they mate.
 
From cougar gt-e
Not so much anymore. Actually, not for the past 15-20 years in many cases.
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Well I'll only talk to some newer cars then. 2004 Mini-Cooper engine break in was required. 2006 Dodge 3500 break in required. 2007 Nissan Altama Hybrid break in required. So lets recount European car yes, American Diesel truck yes, Japanese car (assembled in the US) yes. So I wonder where "most" are? I would like to know if someone has one, or knows with the ability to show all of us an automobile that does NOT recommend a break in period. I'm not trying to be a smart a$$ I would really like to know. And I believe others would like to know as well. Also what dealer does not PREP a car before delivery as this would be part of the break in process.
 
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