Gun break-in

Another Mobile 1 user here as well..

Standard mineral oil-based engine oils will work equally well.

After an oil change, i will turn all the new oil bottles upside down to drain every last drop from the plastic containers that didn't go into the engine into another oil bottle. You'd be surprised how much wasted oil there is in those containers!

I haven't bought "gun oil" in over 20 years! :cool:
 
I use the same products that I use on a routine basis. After giving a new revolver a thorough cleaning to remove the heavy shipping lube, I give a lube job with Rem-Oil. For my auto-chuckers, I'll use the Rem-Oil,and Pro-Choice's Pro-shot grease on the slide rails. I don't use any special "break-in" products. For cleaning, I rely on good old Hoppes #9!
 
Xfire68 said:
I use Eezox synthetic gun solvent/lube
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How can something be a lubricant AND solvent?? It's an oxymoron :confused:

Use oil to lube your firearm, and solvent for cleaning and lead and copper removal. Hoppe's 9 and Hoppe's 9 copper solvent
 
How can something be a lubricant AND solvent?? It's an oxymoron
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How can something be hot and cold? i.e Icey Hot! LOL

I don't know how it does what it does and if I did I would probably be a littler richer then I am but, it does clean powder and dust and dries to a dry lube and it does work fantastic!
 
Solvent/lube:
The carrier is the solvent, when it evaporates, it leaves a lubricant.
WD 40 is a classic example, though it is not a good lube.
 
How can something be a lubricant AND solvent?? It's an oxymoron
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Never heard of CLP (Cleaner/Lubricant/Protectant)?
There are many examples.
The military has been issuing CLP since at least the Viet Nam conflict.
BreakFree CLP is probably the most well-known commercial example...although not necessarily the most effective example.

This thread may provide some guidance:

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

And yeah, I'm another Eezox convert. :)
 
I'd go for something that's less viscous like break-free. The initial break in of a gun is likely to produce some grime w/ shavings and burrs mixed in as the parts mate. A thicker solution can suspend these particles, but a thinner one should let them move away from the part. It's also easy to flush with BF which is helpful if you're going to clean the gun frequently while breaking it in.
 
I think that with any new gun there is going to be a certain amount of friction as the parts mate with each other -- otherwise it's not breaking itself in. You don't want to shoot it with inadequate lube because the action can become sloppy. I use Breakfree CLP in the early stages and a very small amount of light grease on the rails of pistols later on. IIRC Glock pistols have (or used to) a copper/gold colored grease on the rails which is for initial break-in. In any case you don't want to use so much that it sprays into your face or soaks into your holster or pants. When I apply the CLP I let it dry overnight to insure that the non-lubricating "cleaner" fraction has evaporated and I'm left with the lube.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Solvent/lube:
The carrier is the solvent, when it evaporates, it leaves a lubricant.
WD 40 is a classic example, though it is not a good lube
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Thanks, that makes sense

I just looked at the price of that CLP and Breakfree stuff..:eek:
No thanks! 10W30 Engine oil and Hoppe's has been working just fine for me for over 20 years
 
It really is not that expensive as you only use a little bit. It's a spray and a half second blast in the area you need to clean and lube is all that's needed.

What I like about the most is that it repels dirt and dust and even burn and unburnt powder. That is something that oil based lubes can't do as they tend to attract dirt and dust which will cause ware.
 
I use Breakfree CLP for my gun oil needs. I haven't noticed it "repels" dust and dirt. Seems about like any other oil in that regard. It is a good lube and I'd use it on any firearm, new or old, that needed oil. My revolvers don't usually get additional lube as the residual ATF from the Ed's Red seems to be enough.
 
Field strip, clean as if you had already shot, then assemble, lubricate as normal and shoot as normal.

That's what I do.

Tabdog
 
This whole concept of a gun needing to be broken in is absurd. It's not a small block Chevy. It either works out of the box or it doesn't. There will be wear on moving parts when used like any other mechanical device but it's not going to last any longer or function any better because you "broke it in" with some special lube. Just shoot it and stop worrying about it.:D Lube it, shoot it, clean it, wipe your nasty fingerprints off of it, lightly oil the exterior. I would love to meet the person who came up with this "break in" foolishness.
 
I got converted to Eezox last year and it does a great job. But, it's hard to just toss 50 years of habit, so I still use Hoppes in the tube.
 
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