I don't believe I've ever been present for an AR slamfire, likely for the reasons mentioned in Slamfire's post. And all the slamfires I've been present for except that one round of LC ammo, have always been with handloads.
AR15’s slamfire. They slamfire in battery, I met a credible source who claimed witnessing an out of battery slamfire, with Government M4’s, firing federal Gold Medal match. I have no idea how that could have happened. This appears to be an out of battery AR15 slamfire, the shooter was using factory ammunition, it is very puzzling
https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=423194
I have not heard of any other out of battery slamfires in AR's and of the ones I have heard, I don't know how it could happen. I have had, seen another, and heard of in battery slamfires.
Mine occurred during the NRA standing slowfire stage of a highpower match. I was using the brass colored WSR primers. Winchester nickle primers used to be the primer I preferred to use, never had an issue, but these brass colored WSR are thin and pierce easy. My AR also slamfired, in battery.
The bud with whom I was squadded, his AR slamfired with a Federal primer, during his standing relay. Years later, he had another AR15 slamfire with Federal primers during the standing stage and stopped using them.
What characterizes the standing stage from all other stages is that the rifle is loaded single shot while standing. (That you shoot the standing stage while standing ought to be obvious from the name.) However because you are standing, most people lower the muzzle, drop the round in the chamber, and hit the bolt release while the muzzle is down. Enough slamfires occur standing that it has become evident that the little extra bolt acceleration due to gravity is enough to set off the occasional primer.
The NRA banned loading on the stool. I used to see shooters balancing their muzzles on their shooting stool, drop a round, hit the bolt release. I will bet someone’s rifle slamfired through the stool and that is why it is now illegal to load on the stool. I can just imagine the consternation on the line when some poor schmuck blew out the bottom of his shooting stool with all his equipment inside. I hope no one shot their foot. A 223 round in the foot would cause a nasty wound.
I have stopped dropping the bolt on a round in the chamber, I put a round in the chamber and lower the bolt half way before letting go. I also do this with the rifle sort of level.
You will get DQ'd if your round lands in front of the firing line. I want whatever future AR slamfires I might have to hit the berm. Loosing 10 points is better than having to go home.
I also use CCI #41 primers as they have thick cups and are hard to pierce. These are excellent primers in the AR and I shoot HM scores (seldom HM standing scores anymore) all the way out to 600 yards with the things.
My recommendation, always feed rounds from the magazine to slow the bolt, if you drop a round in the chamber, lower the bolt half way before letting go.
Member Hummer70 says he's looked at the ammo every time there's been a slamfire at a match he's attended, and thus far has always found high primers among the shooter's remaining ammunition. So, high primers are most often the cause—just not always.
I don’t see how high primers can ignite unless the primer is seated in a shallow pocket. For a primer to ignite, the anvil has to be firmly set and the anvil/primer gap cup set. As CCI has said, and as many posts have shown, high primers are the most common cause of misfires. I am of the opinion the high primer cause is basically a red herring, a misdirection. One poster related in battery slamfires he had in a AR10. He had removed the crimp on military ammunition, but left the brass donuts in the bottom of the pocket. By putting spacers into his primer pockets, he created the conditions for a firmly set anvil and setting the anvil tip/primer cake gap.
Just to unsettle people, here is a list of slamfires, some out of battery, in rifles other than Garands, M1a’s, or AR15’s.
Slamfire in DPMS 308
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=467039
I had a slam fire once in my DPMS with regular primer reloads. I have since switched to mil spec primers or magnum primers for my auto rifle reloads. I also use the Lee factory crimp on all reloads for my autos. Kinda had to double up on supplies because I use bushing dies and match primers for my bolt guns in .308 and .223. I like to keep my brass separate too because I want to just neck size for the bolt guns and full size for the autos.
It was my .308. I was using some match primers because that was all I had at the time. I did fire up about 60 other rounds that day without incident.
http://m14forum.com/ammunition/101272-favorite-primer-m14-2.html
07-30-2011, 07:41 PM
hagar the horrible
Joined: Feb 2007
From: Columbia, SC
Posts: 291
I have never seen a slamfire with a Garand or M1A, but I have seen plenty with AR'15s, and in every single case it was a winchester primer, or the shooter did not know. I make it a point to ask. Had a friend in AZ that got a slamfire, no damage to the rifle, warned him about using winchester primers, and a couple of weeks later he got another one, this time damaging the rifle pretty bad. He switched to Remington 7.5's after that..
20 Feb 2008 Shotgun News,
Article “ Micro Galil, The Ultimate Krinkov”
Author Peter Kokalis
Page 12
“Most Kalashnikovs have inertia firing pins, without an associated spring. The initial lot of Galils brought into this country by Magnum Research INC. also had no firing pin springs. The Micro Galils that I examined in El Salvador were not equipped with spring-loaded firing pins either.
Military small arms ammunition primers usually have relatively hard cups, which are not easily touched off. American commercial cal .223 Rem ammunition, including Winchester ammunition often features fairly soft primer cups. In 1983, Winchester ammunition in particular caused several slam-fires and all Galils offered for sale in the United States were quickly retrofitted with strong firing pin strings. “
29 August 2007
CENTURY INTERNATIONAL ARMS, INC.
236 Bryce Boulevard
Fairfax, Vermont, U.S.A. 05454
Tel: (802) 527-1252 Fax: (802) 527-5631
Date: August 29, 2007
Subject: Galil and/or Golani Semi-Auto Sporter Rifle
We are requesting that customers who purchased the Galil and/or Golani Semi-Auto
Sporter that have serial numbers between GAL00001 and GAL02393 send in their
firearm to us as we have modified the bolt and are installing a new firing pin and firing
pin spring to ensure that your Golani offers you the utmost safety and reliability. All Galil
and/or Golani rifles that have the letter "F" or "X" on the bottom of the receiver front cut
off have already been upgraded and your rifle does not need to be sent in to us.If you
are a dealer, please provide us with the names, addresses and contact information of
the purchasers of these Galil/Golani rifles. We will contact them directly. If you are
contacted by these customers, please have them call us at 1-800-270-2767 to obtain a
return authorization. We appreciate your cooperation in this matter and hope to have
this situation resolved as quickly as possible
http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/ak-47-talk/89974-ak-slam-fire-question.html
AK slam fire question
11-05-2008 Hi guys
I thought I would throw this out there to see what you guys think might be causing a slam fire with my AK.
I took my Romy G to the local range to sight her in. I loaded up the mag with 3 rounds each time 40 rounds total. On two occasions after I fired the first shot the second went off right away. I can only describe this as a slam fire. It seems that when I fired a round something happened when chambering the new round and caused the second one to go off without pulling the trigger. I was using Winchester
White Box 7.62x39 (local range doesn’t allow wolf which is of course what I have plenty of)
11-10-2008
So I cleaned it all up and checked over the FCG real close and everything seems to be in working order. I am not getting the "hammer follow" issue. The disconnector is retaining the hammer when the trigger is fully depressed. And the trigger hook is is grabbing the front of the hammer.
I also took the bolt down and cleaned it up real nice.
I took it to the range over the weekend and put about 90 rounds of wolf down range and not a single issue. Nothing that resembled what happend when using the Winchseter ammo. I did check one of the rounds that were chambered to see if there were any marks on the primer and there was but it didnt go off.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=6193244#post6193244
AK47 Saiga Slamfire
I have a Russian Saiga 7.62x39 That I love more than anything to shoot. The other day I took it and a few hand guns to the range (in door) The weekend before I picked up 700 rounds of the military ammo at the gun show Boy did I have a rude awakening. Slipped in a 30 round mag, dropped the bolt and un loaded 30 rounds without a miss fire. You have no idea how quiet it got there. I had the range officer on me so fast. After a lot of wounderment we found the problem. The primers in the military loads are soft. I have seen that happen in the SKS but never in an AK. I guess I wanted to share this adventure with everyone and a warning. With the range dude there I loaded up a 5 round with this ammo and it did it again. I then re loaded the 5 round mag with some Wolf 122gr. HP Steel Case and everything went back to normal. Just wanted to share this miss hap and be sure where your muzzle is pointing when you lock and load.
They came loose in a can which my brother has. I will contact him and tell you just what is was. I do think I remember that there were 500 Rounds military Surplus. Egyptian
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...ired?p=8841078&highlight=slamfire#post8841078
Very clean SKS that slamfired?
Hi all,
So picked up an SKS from wholesale the other week, stripped and cleaned the entire thing (including bolt), shot 20 rounds of PPV out of it the other day with no problem, cleaned it; then today I shot 10 rounds of federal ammo and had a slam fire on the last second clip. This was pretty scary for me because the FP was clean and moves freely in the bolt. Do you think it could be an issue with the ammo having sensitive primers?
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=7180249#post7180249
Browning Automatic Rifle (BAR) Slamfire in 270 Win. Neck sized cases.
It's good to think you had the good common horse sense to ask that question. Some have assumed nothing is any different since the cartridge is what it is, 30-06 or what ever high powered rifle round, and then necked it as with their bolt actions. A man came into the gun shot I worked in with a really nice, well was a really nice Browning semi auto, I think it was chambered in 270 win., no matter. He said he had been necking for a while for that rifle without problems. I doubt he considered now and then chambering issues as problems. Either way, all it took was one slam fire to ruin his day and rifle, and fortunately not his life!
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=6493506&postcount=4
Thread:
Anybody know why "they"advise against .308 for M1A
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Today, 09:48 AM #4
Hatterasguy
Member
Join Date: January 4, 2010
Posts: 670
I recently had a slamfire issue on my FN49 and I suspect it was casued by using commercial .308. I have yet to take it back to the range to confirm.
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Out of Battery Slamfire in FN49
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=543905
Hey all,
I recently had an 'out of battery slamfire' in my, two piece firing pin, FN49. I had made 8mm Mauser ammo from milsurp 30-06 cases. The dimensions of the cases (30-06 and 7.92x57mm S) are identical at the base and only need to be cut down to the correct length, sized and trimmed. The problem with making your own ammo for the FN49 is that it is a very robust firing mechanism that will ignite a sensitive primer before the round is seated in the chamber. I was using CCI 200 Large Rifle Primers which are reasonably sensitive for bolt action rifles and, I have found out, too sensitive for semi auto rifles. Even though I've used these primers for years in my FALs, and WASR AK47, I'm going to stop and use CCI 34 Large, 41 Small, or milsurp in the semi auto rifles.
The 'oob' slamfire caused the receiver and bolt carrier to become a bad fit! I searched (Google) and found a gunsmith in Missouri who could fix the rifle. His name is Guy Snelen at AMG International in Humansville, Missouri. He repaired it, test fired it, and sent it home to me. If anyone needs a good gunsmith, get in touch with Guy.
Kaboomed 8mm Egyptian FN-49 .... Now A Floorlamp!!!!
http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=132165.0
« on: July 03, 2014, 06:26:50 PM »
My LGS gave me this Kaboomed Egyptian FN-49 today. It's a CAI gun. To add insult to injury it was the second time it had kaboomed. The owner had it "fixed" and then it let loose again after a few rounds. I think I would have quit the first go-round.
The funny thing is when I took it apart I could not find any reason it let go unless it fired out of battery. The gas setting was fine. The only broken part was the rear of the extractor when the kaboom bent it out and cracked it.
When it let go (8mm Romanian surplus) it looks like all the force went straight down and bulged the mag and in turn stretched the sides of the mag well in the trigger group/guard assembly. I got the mag pounded back in shape and bent in the sides of the mag well opening true.
One thing I did notice was that the stock was repaired poorly after it let loose the first time. It would not have taken but a few rounds to have split it again. It is one of those beech CAI replacement stocks and it split darn near perfectly in half.
I could fix the stock but why bother, I'd never-ever trust the rifle. The guy got away twice with nothing but hurt feel-goods and a lighter wallet and I don't want to be the odd man out with a injury.
I was thinking of parting it out or selling it as is but I think I might make a gun lamp out of it instead to preclude anyone getting bad parts or crazy ideas of trying to shoot it.
I glued/screwed the stock back together well enough to start making a lamp of it. It will be real easy to do.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=665024&highlight=French+7.5+Bullet+Diameter+info+Request
http://web.archive.org/web/20060506045913/http://members.nuvox.net/~on.melchar/75french/sainfo.html
These articles were available on-line, but the links are dead, so I copied
my post from an other board (two posts here as we are limited to 20000 characters):
Disclaimer: This article contains information that may not be appropriate for your particular firearm. Consult your gunsmith in regards to the safety of firing your particular firearm. Consult your reloading manuals for all safety procedures when reloading ammunition. We are not responsible for typographic errors. Your mileage may vary.
What follows is a reproduction of an article from Handloading Magazine on the 7.5x54 MAS, prefaced with comments by myself, updating the magazine article with considerations for the MAS semi-auto rifles.
Update: Reloading the 7.5x54 MAS.
By Paul Pelfrey
While the reprinted article that follows is essentially accurate, the author did not take into consideration the availability of the various semi-auto French rifles that would later be on the market at an affordable price. This article should be applicable to the MAS-44, MAS-49 and the recently imported MAS-49/56 rifles. With the data in table II of the article below, I didn’t need to reinvent the wheel to start my experimentation. My load was the 150 grain Sierra FMJ spitzer, loaded on Norma brass, with Winchester WLR primers, packed with 44 grains of AA-2520 powder. I had had a good experience with this load through my MAS-36 bolt action rifle and decided to give it a go in the MAS-49/56. The MAS-49/56 I had acquired came from SOG and was still in the arsenal wrapping when I received it. After a thorough cleaning I took it and 50 rounds of my handloads. I first test fired the rifle with some surplus Syrian ammo I had. I was disappointed. The Syrian ammo was rife with hangfires and dead primers, and those rounds that did fire would not actuate the bolt properly. Most of the rounds stovepiped none ejected fully. I then took my handloads, loading a single round in the magazine at a time and easing the bolt forward. To my delight, the rounds were rather accurate, keeping inside 1.5 inches at 50 yards, and the brass ejected cleanly. After 10 shots loaded one at a time I loaded two rounds. This time, I let the bolt fly forward on it's own to chamber the first round. The round immediately slamfired as the bolt closed, and the second round chambered. My finger had been outside the trigger guard. I unloaded the gun, then reloaded two rounds. This time, the round did not fire when chambered. However, when I pulled the trigger, the rifle fired both rounds in rapid succession. My first thought was that this was a repeat of a phenomenon that I had experienced with an SKS carbine. In that case, the modern lube I had used on the SKS was too slippery and allowed the firing pin to travel forward with the bolt actuation with sufficient inertia to impact and detonate the primer. In that case, removal of the lubrication solved the problem. I disassembled the MAS rifle and dried the components completely and reassembled it. The slamfire problem persisted. My attention turned to the handloads. Checking the primer seating depth and dimensions of the case turned up nothing out of spec (except the smaller rim diameter, per the Handloader article). I then chambered a Syrian round and then removed it. Examining the Syrian round showed a slight indentation on the primer. I then left the range to ponder my next move.
Next weekend I returned with more handloads, this time using CCI regular and match primers, and Remington primers. During this session my handloads still suffered from slamfires while the military French and Syrian ammo did not. Conclusion: Commercial primers are too thin to operate safely in the French MAS semi-auto rifles.
Solution: CCI, under the name of their parent company, Blount, manufactures a military spec primer. I found a brick at a gunshow in a plain white box. The label read "1000 M-34 Primer for 7.62mm Cartridge". Loading 50 more rounds with these primers solved the problem. Not a single slamfire. Most distributors do not carry this primer, and will only order and sell it in a case lot (5000 primers). The good news is that these primers sell for only about $6-$9 more than the same quantity of regular primers. I would recommend their use in any round that might be loaded in a semi-auto rifle, just for an added margin of safety.
Reloading this round has become much cheaper since the publication of the Handloader article. Lee now makes the dies for this round, and I have seen a retail store price on them for $29.99 (half of RCBS). After talking to the techs at Lee, they are willing to make a tapered expander for necking up the Swedish brass for $15, and if you send them a formed cased with a bullet (no primer, no powder) they will make one of their Factory Crimp Dies for it for $25. I recommend this, inasmuch as a few of my handloads had a problem with the bullets being pushed back into the case upon chambering. This can lead to overpressure and possible injury. Brass is more plentiful now as well. I find Remington 6.5 Swedish at shows for $27/100 and Kengs in Georgia also stocks Lapua 6.5 Swedish for a similar price.
.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=425509&page=2
Tamara
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: March 11, 2000
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 15,880
Originally Posted by B. Lahey
The Prvi was the only ammo I could find, and it seems to get good reviews from MAS 49/56 owners, but I also found one complaint of a slam-fire with it.
The MAS-49 has a massive firing pin to make sure it pops hard military primers. Slamfires are not uncommon with commercial Prvi or FNM ammo. Mine gave Oleg Volk a pretty spectacular bruise on his right thumb with the bolt handle when he chambered a round.
Titanium firing pins were available for a time, but I haven't seen any for a while. Others have reported success in lightening the original FP.
I'd put one round in the mag the first time you let the bolt fly, just in case...
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I don't know a single semi auto rifle design with a captive firing pin. Pistol mechanisms have firing pin blocks, don't know of a rifle with one. Therefore all semi auto mechanisms have free floating firing pins. Because of this, it is my opinion, you want to use the least sensitive primer you can. Commercial primers have gotten ultra sensitive because shooters complain about the round not going off. You find lots of threads on this, and what is blamed, is not the ancient mainsprings in the boom stick, but the primer. Sometimes the ignition mechanism is so inadequate that certain brands of commercial primers won’t ignite, which leads to that manufacturer reacting to the market by making their primers more sensitive. Just before 2000, Winchester made their primer more sensitive, including their rifle primers.
To hammer on the ideologues at the CMP, they are preaching that only high primers and your worn out receiver bridge cause slamfires. They will not and do not acknowledge that the root cause for 99.99% of slamfires is a sensitive primer whacked by a free floating firing pin. Decades previous, the Army and the NRA claimed the only causes of slamfires were high primers and worn receiver bridges and that is nonsense. These guys are so out of touch with reality, they probably believe the nonsense they preach. If you really look at what they are preaching, the only causes of slamfires are shooter misconduct, they totally ignore the action design. In their delusional universe the Garand mechanism is perfect. Well it is not and was not. The only semi auto’s on the firing line decades ago (in quantity) were Garands and M1a’s, so shooters did not have a basis of comparison with other mechanisms. Look at the reports of slamfires in other mechanisms, mechanisms that are totally different from the Garand, no receiver bridge for one thing, any yet, they slamfire with factory ammunition. Which, presumably, won’t have high primers. There are plenty of accounts of slamfires in mechanisms where the reloader explicitly said the primers were below the case head.
If the high primer only theory is correct, then neck sizing is fine for semi auto rifles. So is using the most sensitive primers, like pistol primers for cast bullet loads. There are probably some other dangerous practices that fall out, and have hurt shooters, destroyed rifles, because of the lies of these types.