First time reloading for revolver

308Loader,

Did the sound and recoil feel different on that round? I ask, because that is so slow, I suspect a measuring error caused by unburned powder particles tripping the first screen ahead of the bullet getting there. What distance is the chrono set up at?


Shadow9mm,

The trick is getting rid of throat unevenness. Most new revolvers seem to have their chamber throats all reamed by different reamers. A standard accuracy trick is to ream them all to SAAMI maximum to iron that out.

How much it costs depends on how you get it done. When cylindersmith.com was still in business, IIRC, it was about $35. A better price came up when a friend returned a Ruger Redhawk to the factory with a complaint about its accuracy. I owned one that had five chambers that would shoot into under 0.7 inches at 50 yards, with the sixth chamber always opening it up to about 1.5". It was because of that gun my friend bought his copy, but it wouldn't stay in 6" at 25 yards. When the factory returned the gun, it came with a shop paper saying "cylinder reamed". It shot fine after that. So if an argument can be made regarding the accuracy and you can measure the throats, you may be in a good position to argue for free factory service.

This fellow is recommended by some users at the castboolits site. I have no idea what he charges.

You can rent the reamers for about the price cylindersmith used to charge and do it yourself if you are used to tool work.
 
If it felt weak, we can kind of guess that the primer unseated the bullet before the powder got burning fast enough to supply bypass gas around the bullet and maybe backward around the case. Did you get fouling and oxide color on the sides of the case?
 
cases were not sooty or discolored to the best of my recollection. guess I dint look for those ones. when I dumped the cylinder into my collection bag, I could see what I'm guessing is unburnt powder. yellow brown flakes, guessing the graphite or whatever coating was blown off leaving the rest behind as unburnt.
 
"If it felt weak, we can kind of guess that the primer unseated the bullet before the powder got burning fast enough to supply.."

More crimp? Using RCBS 3die set 357-38S P#18212
 
308Loader said:
"If it felt weak, we can kind of guess that the primer unseated the bullet before the powder got burning fast enough to supply.."

More crimp? Using RCBS 3die set 357-38S P#18212
Click to expand...
That's my guess, needs a touch more crimp. On a side note your RCBS set appears to use a roll crimp, which is great for bullets with crimp grooves. However when I bought some extreme plated for 38spl a while back, similar to the Berrys, they recommended a taper crimp. I ended up buying the lee taper crimp die and it worked well for me getting a better grip on the plated bullets without digging into the jacket.

$17 on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-90781-Die-38-Special/dp/B00162TJL2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2KI2CGTQWDNX7&keywords=lee+taper+crimp+38spl&qid=1645578868&sprefix=lee+taper+crimp+38spl%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-1

or $12 on midway, but shipping.....
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016834814?pid=696792
 
Last edited:
The 38 Sp is usually easy peasy to deal with and 231 has a great track record. However, most 38s loaded with 231 are probably with heavier bullets.

The plated bullet may also have the potential to start moving with less "break away" force than a traditional cast bullet or a well crimped in jacketed bullet.

I am thinking that your combination of cold weather shooting, powder selection, bullet weight and bullet type may have all combined to put you on the ragged edge of poor ignition.

I load a lot of 108 gr and 120 gr cast in the 38 with either Promo (bulk version of Red Dot) or TiteGroup. All of the 38s loads I have checked over a chrono have some amount of powder position sensitivity (up to 100 fps difference), but never any real indications of "poor ignition". Note that the powder position sensitivity never seems to end up hurting point of impact on targets.

With your choice of bullet, I am really thinking you might want to try your TiteGroup.

Also be sure to do some testing with powder forward and some testing with powder to the rear.
 
Thanks. I'll try some TG this weekend and see what it does for me. Kind of trying to phase out the use of TG for various reasons, but still have 3/4# to play with. I don't hate it, just looking for maybe something different. Found some W231 and W244 and want to give them a go. loading for 32-9-45 auto and of course 38. Initial research shows 231 will cover all 4 relatively well. Only way to know is to try.

Also have a taper crimp die that should be here tomorrow. Will try that out as well to see if I can get better grip on the bullet without cutting into the plating of the Berry's. Was trying to be mindful of that on the last test. looked like I had a good curl into the bullet without any flaking of the plaiting material. would seem to be not enough hold?

Try, try, and then... Try again. Maybe that is the appeal of this hobby. If I could make perfect all weather shooting loads that did what I expected every time this would be boring.

Thank you all for your input as usual. I apricate your wisdom.
 
Nick, would I be able to measure the chamber throats accurately with calipers? or do they need to be slugged with a led ball or something?
 
308Loader said:
Thanks. I'll try some TG this weekend and see what it does for me. Kind of trying to phase out the use of TG for various reasons, but still have 3/4# to play with. I don't hate it, just looking for maybe something different. Found some W231 and W244 and want to give them a go. loading for 32-9-45 auto and of course 38. Initial research shows 231 will cover all 4 relatively well. Only way to know is to try.

Also have a taper crimp die that should be here tomorrow. Will try that out as well to see if I can get better grip on the bullet without cutting into the plating of the Berry's. Was trying to be mindful of that on the last test. looked like I had a good curl into the bullet without any flaking of the plaiting material. would seem to be not enough hold?

Try, try, and then... Try again. Maybe that is the appeal of this hobby. If I could make perfect all weather shooting loads that did what I expected every time this would be boring.

Thank you all for your input as usual. I apricate your wisdom.
Click to expand...
too much roll crimp on a plated bullet can cause problems. you most likely would not see flaking it will just dig into the jacket. With enough crimp you could cut through the plating.

berrys crimping vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PpopVnN2tc

I enjoy tinkering with my loads, just not fighting with them. Don't give up on the W231, It should work well for you. If its a crimping issue you might very well have the same problem with other powders so best to get it sorted out now.

In relation to checking the sizes of the cylinder throats I have never been able to get a good measurement with calipers.

What I have done is grab a .357 and .358 bullet and measure them to make they are the correct size. Bullets are easy to measure. After that I just push them through the throats, kind of like using a pin gauge. A .358 will fit through mine, but not a .359.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top