(Though you said most newer pistols are usually drop safe, PT92 and some of my options aren't newer pistols, or did you just mean actual manufacture date of that particular pistol and that they've made changes from older PT92's?).
Sorry that can be a bit confusing. Pistols, with the exception of frame materials, really haven't changed much for some decades. By newer I mean designed in the latter half of the 20th Century, which is pretty much anything you'd find unless you were buying a collector item or an antique.
Someone mentioned a mechanical safety in addition to the FPB? Seems like you're talking about another automatic/involuntary safety mechanism? Mind explaining that?
That's my error, my apologies. All the safeties discussed here are mechanical in that they mechanically stop the gun from firing. I meant a separate manual safety. A firing pin block functions without activation from the user (automatic). A manual safety is triggered by the user. Almost all modern production guns have firing pin blocks (with some 1911s as an exception). Some guns have a manual safety in addition to the firing pin block. For instance the Beretta 92 FS has a firing pin block as well as the manual safety.
Oh and the shotgun, thought about that and I want something that is also better at the range and better for a little distance. I also don't want something that becomes little more than a baseball bat when a loved one is near the baddy.
A shotgun prints much smaller groups than many anticipate, at least generally with the stock choke. It's not like the movies or cartoons. The group size increases with distance, but the pattern starts very small.
Finally I don't want something that terminally deadly. I want something that I can just give a warning arm or leg shot if someone is only holding a knife, but can open up center mass if pulling a gun on me. Legal (not to mention moral) aftermath is a thought here as well.
Any time you discharge a weapon you face the risk of an individual losing his/her life. Shooting to "wound" minimizes this reality. If you discharge a firearm, you aim center mass. That's the standard for civilians as well as police. The idea of shooting to wound is a complete fallacy and opens up a world of legal complications. If you shot someone in the arm or leg just to "wound", then in court the defense could argue that obviously your life wasn't in grave danger and you shouldn't have shot in the first place. You give a command to the intruder to stop (you SHOUT this command; one of the funniest things is taking courses where instructors tell students to do this and people mumble as if they're meek when they're about to shoot a gun). If the intruder doesn't stop and continues to move towards you and you feel your life is in danger, you aim center mass and press that trigger to the rear. You can stop and re-evaluate after each shot or a number of shots, that's up to you. A standard is to say "I shot to stop the threat". Many interpret this as stopping the forward motion of the person attacking you.
Another reason for aiming center mass is that under stress accuracy goes to hell. Even police officers are lucky to maintain 30% of their normal accuracy when in a defensive shooting. If you aim for an arm or leg and miss that might give the intruder time to close distance and assault you. You also run the risk of the missed shot ricocheting off your surroundings or passing through a wall and hurting someone else. Aiming center mass is legally and tactically the safest option.
What kind of condition can I expect on a police trade in though (the site you linked in your personal message was lawmens)? And I mean internal/barrel wear. I don't mind some holster wear.
A common phrase regarding police trade ins is that they are carried a lot and shot a little. Often they're shot for qualification and not much else. They typically have external wear from holsters and from riding around on a duty belt all day, but usually they are just fine internally.
IMHO if choosing between the Taurus and the Beretta I would go Beretta everytime. The Taurus is not a bad gun. One of the better ones they make but you are comparing a low end clone to the actual gun they cloned.
+1. It's a knockoff versus the real thing.
You might want to consider a Revolver. They still sell a lot of them and can be found in a lot of homes. You do not seem to have any experience with handguns or semi autos in general. Do you know how to clear the various jams they may have? Are you willing to spend money to find the ammo which the gun prefers? How about shooting a few hundred rounds to make sure it is reliable? Just a few things to consider. A revolver can be put away and 25 years later, can be taken and used. No worries about limp wristing either. You just load it and press the heavy trigger to shoot.
A revolver was my first handgun, for many of these reasons. However I think some of them are actually misnomers. Revolvers can go out of time and when they jam you're really screwed (much rarer than a semiautomatic jam but much harder to fix). You're typically limited to 6-7 rds. Will that be enough? Maybe, maybe not. If the person you're talking about doesn't shoot much, as it sounds in this example, then they may need greater capacity to get those shots on target or there may be multiple attackers. Regardless of a revolver or semiauto, you want to put a certain amount of ammunition through the handgun to check function. Any firearm if stored properly will be fine in 25 years. Any firearm, even a revolver, if stored improperly will be a paperweight in 25 years. There are many reliable semiautos these days.
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