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Favorite Die Manufacturer?
- Thread starter DavidABQ
- Start date
I have dies from several manufacturers and I've had even more in the past. I've probably owned 100 dies throughout my life.
My favorite are Lee dies with a Hornady lock ring on the seater die. They work well, make accurate ammo, include the shell holder, the factory crimp die is wonderful and they offer them to you at a reasonable cost. I also like that the collet on the sizing die will often let the decapping pin (rod) slide up instead of breaking the pin. If you ever have a stuck case this design also makes it easy to get it out. The lock rings are the only downsides I see, but you can get a Hornady lock ring for a couple of dollars.
I also really like Redding dies. I've never had a problem with them and they work well.
I've used Hornady dies the least, but I've also never had a problem.
I've had a few Lyman sets that I've gotten great results with, but I also had a used 22-250 set that wouldn't seat the bullets deep enough even when screwed all the way in. Since it was used I can't blame this on Lyman. I have no idea what happened to this die before I got it, although it didn't look modified.
I've also had several sets of RCBS dies and they are my least favorite out of the bunch. I wanted to go with these because 85% of my reloading equipment is RCBS and I love it. However, I've had the most issues with them. On one pistol set I got the seater die would cut into the bullet as it was seating it. RCBS sent out parts to fix this, but it still occasionally crushes the cases trying to seat the bullet. This is a 380 die, so having read one of the above posts in thinking maybe I should try a Hornady die.
On another set of rifle dies I got it was crushing the shoulders. I replaced this set with Lee and never had another issue. The lock rings are also a poor design in the RCBS dies Imo. The set screw tightens into the threads of the die mangling the threads. So if you adjust it later the lock ring is hard to screw and unscrew because the die threads are buggered up from the set screw. I also have had issues with the small vent hole getting clogged up with lube requiring cleaning about 10x more often than any other die I've had. I've also broken a bunch of decapping pins as well as bought several used someone else broke and then got fed up with. I've also seen several with bent decapping rods although I've never done this on one. These are just the kind of problems I've had with RCBS dies. I do have sets that work great, but I've had far more problems with them than any other brand. I do like their shell holders and other equipment, but I honestly think that most people buying their regular dies are just buying them for the name.
My favorite are Lee dies with a Hornady lock ring on the seater die. They work well, make accurate ammo, include the shell holder, the factory crimp die is wonderful and they offer them to you at a reasonable cost. I also like that the collet on the sizing die will often let the decapping pin (rod) slide up instead of breaking the pin. If you ever have a stuck case this design also makes it easy to get it out. The lock rings are the only downsides I see, but you can get a Hornady lock ring for a couple of dollars.
I also really like Redding dies. I've never had a problem with them and they work well.
I've used Hornady dies the least, but I've also never had a problem.
I've had a few Lyman sets that I've gotten great results with, but I also had a used 22-250 set that wouldn't seat the bullets deep enough even when screwed all the way in. Since it was used I can't blame this on Lyman. I have no idea what happened to this die before I got it, although it didn't look modified.
I've also had several sets of RCBS dies and they are my least favorite out of the bunch. I wanted to go with these because 85% of my reloading equipment is RCBS and I love it. However, I've had the most issues with them. On one pistol set I got the seater die would cut into the bullet as it was seating it. RCBS sent out parts to fix this, but it still occasionally crushes the cases trying to seat the bullet. This is a 380 die, so having read one of the above posts in thinking maybe I should try a Hornady die.
On another set of rifle dies I got it was crushing the shoulders. I replaced this set with Lee and never had another issue. The lock rings are also a poor design in the RCBS dies Imo. The set screw tightens into the threads of the die mangling the threads. So if you adjust it later the lock ring is hard to screw and unscrew because the die threads are buggered up from the set screw. I also have had issues with the small vent hole getting clogged up with lube requiring cleaning about 10x more often than any other die I've had. I've also broken a bunch of decapping pins as well as bought several used someone else broke and then got fed up with. I've also seen several with bent decapping rods although I've never done this on one. These are just the kind of problems I've had with RCBS dies. I do have sets that work great, but I've had far more problems with them than any other brand. I do like their shell holders and other equipment, but I honestly think that most people buying their regular dies are just buying them for the name.
RCBS has never disappointed me.
I've had Lee dies that worked well and one set that disappointed me and was replaced with a set from RCBS.
My experience with Lyman's customer service was dreadful. I'll never touch another of their products again, but I know other people have had different (better) experiences.
I have no experience with dies from Hornady, Redding or Forster, so I can't comment on them.
I've had Lee dies that worked well and one set that disappointed me and was replaced with a set from RCBS.
My experience with Lyman's customer service was dreadful. I'll never touch another of their products again, but I know other people have had different (better) experiences.
I have no experience with dies from Hornady, Redding or Forster, so I can't comment on them.
Kevin Rohrer
New member
These companies make quality dies:
*Lyman
*Hornady
*RCBS
*Redding
*CH/4D <--best value for the money, but you have to buy direct, which can be a hassle
*Dillon
*Forster <--have no experience w/ them
*Lyman
*Hornady
*RCBS
*Redding
*CH/4D <--best value for the money, but you have to buy direct, which can be a hassle
*Dillon
*Forster <--have no experience w/ them
I will add in that I love the LEE O ring locking nut.
Some hate them, but for me, they stay exactly in place (yes you can disturb them but it takes some effort) As noted, I don't like to damage threads with the RCBS rings.
Spin the die down, snug it tight with a wrench and you are exactly where you left off for sizing or seating.
If anything is off, its easy to adjust unlike the hex clamp rings you have to futz with (sizing)
I got 10 of them years back, I am about out now, will have to pick up another pack!
Some hate them, but for me, they stay exactly in place (yes you can disturb them but it takes some effort) As noted, I don't like to damage threads with the RCBS rings.
Spin the die down, snug it tight with a wrench and you are exactly where you left off for sizing or seating.
If anything is off, its easy to adjust unlike the hex clamp rings you have to futz with (sizing)
I got 10 of them years back, I am about out now, will have to pick up another pack!
Ya know, thinking about this and reading responses, including my own I really don't know that I can label any single die manufacturer a favorite. Looking at over 40 years of dies when I get right down to it seems each manufacturer has features I like and features I dislike and even using dislike stretches it a little. I also see wherepersonal taste enters into things, for example RC20 mentioned:
While I don't hate them I really don't care for them which is likely why my Lee dies for the most part have Hornady locking rings on them. Hell even my RCBS dies for the most part have Hornady locking rings.
Regardless of brand they all get the jobs before them done, they all work. Each die seems to have good and not so good features and much of those come down to individual preference. This just being for basic dies.
Ron
I will add in that I love the LEE O ring locking nut.
Some hate them, but for me, they stay exactly in place (yes you can disturb them but it takes some effort) As noted, I don't like to damage threads with the RCBS rings.
While I don't hate them I really don't care for them which is likely why my Lee dies for the most part have Hornady locking rings on them. Hell even my RCBS dies for the most part have Hornady locking rings.
Regardless of brand they all get the jobs before them done, they all work. Each die seems to have good and not so good features and much of those come down to individual preference. This just being for basic dies.
Ron
jetinteriorguy
New member
For straight wall revolver I like a combination. Hornady new dimension sizing/ decapping die and bullet seating die in combination with Lee powder through die and Lee collet crimp die for magnum rounds. On .38sp though I'll substitute the Lee seating/crimp die but use it only for crimping.
Per Reloadron:
I don't know its always features, but what suits a persons feeling for how things should be done or how they should work.
When I could do it, I set up Windows with a yellow background and black print.
Why?
I had a psych book done in black print on yellow pages in my one year of collage, they had done studies and found that was the easiest to read and they did their book in it as they said "we do all these studies and then we don't do anything with what we found" so we did.
Over the years the programmers and techs that work on the stuff I can't said they hated it, then after a while it was, you know, its a lot easier on the eyes than a glaring white screen!
I hate the knurled knobs on dies. So how do you adjust it, or get it to stay. Yep, your nice precision dies and you have to grab a pliers (you can put a nut on them but why would they not come with a nut in the first place?
I like RCBS match seater because you can drop the bullet straight in instead of reaching up under with your fingers like Forster. Better or worse for alignment? danged if I know.
But all in all as he says, they all make pretty darned good dies, I continue to like RCBS for their customer service and I can fix the locking ring and nut!
Bless RCBS, they had the 7.5 Swiss in the match seater set.
So, a bias and fondness for RCBS, with a like for Forster, Lyman and Lee.
Whidden? I just don't know if their price gets me anything more. Same with Redding. They don't have a micrometer seater and the one they add on is tiny. Really?
And so it goes!
I don't know its always features, but what suits a persons feeling for how things should be done or how they should work.
When I could do it, I set up Windows with a yellow background and black print.
Why?
I had a psych book done in black print on yellow pages in my one year of collage, they had done studies and found that was the easiest to read and they did their book in it as they said "we do all these studies and then we don't do anything with what we found" so we did.
Over the years the programmers and techs that work on the stuff I can't said they hated it, then after a while it was, you know, its a lot easier on the eyes than a glaring white screen!
I hate the knurled knobs on dies. So how do you adjust it, or get it to stay. Yep, your nice precision dies and you have to grab a pliers (you can put a nut on them but why would they not come with a nut in the first place?
I like RCBS match seater because you can drop the bullet straight in instead of reaching up under with your fingers like Forster. Better or worse for alignment? danged if I know.
But all in all as he says, they all make pretty darned good dies, I continue to like RCBS for their customer service and I can fix the locking ring and nut!
Bless RCBS, they had the 7.5 Swiss in the match seater set.
So, a bias and fondness for RCBS, with a like for Forster, Lyman and Lee.
Whidden? I just don't know if their price gets me anything more. Same with Redding. They don't have a micrometer seater and the one they add on is tiny. Really?
And so it goes!
ReloadRon wrote:
While I don't hate them [Lee Lock Rings] I really don't care for them which is likely why my Lee dies for the most part have Hornady locking rings ... even my RCBS dies for the most part have Hornady locking rings.
Same here.
If I order a set of dies from RCBS, I also order a set of Hornady Lock rings.
RCBS used to use a split ring like the Hornady and then switched to using one where the screw engages the threads on the die body which I don't care of.
If I order a set of dies from RCBS, I also order a set of Hornady Lock rings.
RCBS used to use a split ring like the Hornady and then switched to using one where the screw engages the threads on the die body which I don't care of.
If I have a tool with knurls it means I should be able to secure it with my hand. And then? I make shop calls, I never leave the house with cut up strips of leather and woo be onto he that grabs a pair of pliers and heads toward one of my dies.
I do not secure the lock ring to the die with the set screw, if in my position there is a die with a set screw that is secured to the die with the set screw it is not my die.
I adjust my die first then secure the die to the press with the lock ring. Again, it the lock ring requires something extra there is leather cut into strips. I could say "you will not believe how tight the lock ring can be...", I have cut lock rings off of dies, around here there is no shortage of lock rings. My favorite are the 6 sided type, I hold the die and tighten the nut.
F. Guffey
Each to his own. I have had too many of those knurled knobs come loose.
I work on big machinery. Largest? 2500 hp and about 25 feet long (EMD, 2 cycle, slow speed, ergo the size)
All fasteners with a specifications on that engine got a torque wrench used with the listed thread condition (dry, lubed, what specific lube etc)
So, a piece of leather may work, a wrench works better and its my choice as I have the feel for the application.
I think having your lock ring set and fixed is by far the more consistent way, certainly less time consuming.
But then as noted, each to his own. Mine suits me.
I always listen to what others do, sometimes it is something that works for me, often not. So it goes. Alpha Centurion shines bright.
I work on big machinery. Largest? 2500 hp and about 25 feet long (EMD, 2 cycle, slow speed, ergo the size)
All fasteners with a specifications on that engine got a torque wrench used with the listed thread condition (dry, lubed, what specific lube etc)
So, a piece of leather may work, a wrench works better and its my choice as I have the feel for the application.
I think having your lock ring set and fixed is by far the more consistent way, certainly less time consuming.
But then as noted, each to his own. Mine suits me.
I always listen to what others do, sometimes it is something that works for me, often not. So it goes. Alpha Centurion shines bright.
I have Redding, Forster, Hornady and Lee dies on my bench and they all have their place. For a newbie I think either RCBS or Lee dies would be my first choice simply because of cost. My favorite neck sizer of standard chambers would be the Lee collet dies. I get consistent run outs of less than .001 on most loads. I use a Lee universal decapping tool, Forster and Redding micrometer seating dies, Hornady pistol dies. I have several pieces of RCBS equipment some ten years or more old and all still function perfectly and wish that I had bought a Rockchucker for my first press. However as long as my old Lee is functioning I don't see the need to replace it until I go the arbor press and Wilson precision dies
Quite frankly I don't think any of the major reloading companies would have been around as long as they have been if they produced shoddy equipment so go with what you want and can afford
Quite frankly I don't think any of the major reloading companies would have been around as long as they have been if they produced shoddy equipment so go with what you want and can afford
Quite frankly I don't think any of the major reloading companies would have been around as long as they have been if they produced shoddy equipment so go with what you want and can afford
Nothing seems to deter Lee from offering the Loadmaster, which isn't a lot of use to anyone but engineers, inventors, and machinists...definitely not for a newcomer, so why would anyone else buy one except from a frustrated beginner who just wants rid of the thing? Mine worked to a point, but not if I wanted to feed cases with it. It sits in a box for someone else to try. A fellow at the range is interested. I will probably just give it to him rather than make excuses for it or have to defend against him having any issues with it.
My Junior has been turned into my COAL adjuster at the range.
Two or three presses does not hurt.
Used ones as long as in good condition are fine and cheap.
I hope to get the other Rockchucker up for the nit noid work once my bench is recovered (I got too far into this with too many calibers before I realized I need a good brass storage system)
The 2nd Chucker was a freebie so no money out for that. More press than I need for what will likely be the M die station, but it was free.
Two or three presses does not hurt.
Used ones as long as in good condition are fine and cheap.
I hope to get the other Rockchucker up for the nit noid work once my bench is recovered (I got too far into this with too many calibers before I realized I need a good brass storage system)
The 2nd Chucker was a freebie so no money out for that. More press than I need for what will likely be the M die station, but it was free.
I started on Lee and still use them almost exclusively for all pistol and high volume rifle. I have a set of redding dies in 270 for a precision rifle I load for. I do believe the full length sizer die is superior to the Lee. The seater as well. Lees neck collet die makes ammo that is just as accurate though. I've gone on to all full length sizing now as my brass is usually toast after 5 firings max (primer pockets loosen). I don't see where I'm overworking the brass in that load cycle by FL sizing, and I have to FL size after the 3rd firing anyway for acceptable chambering and bolt lift after firing.
I honestly can make nearly as accurate of ammo with the Lee set as with nice expensive redding dies, though. Even when comparing both FL size dies. I have tested, and the redding gets the edge. The finish of Lee dies is heavily prone to rust, I've found. That's my biggest complaint with Lee. Otherwise I think they offer a good value. I have no issues loading accurate pistol ammo with Lee dies on a Lee classic turret. I seat and crimp in one step, even with cast bullets. Apparently this is tricky according to some but I've never really had any issues getting it right and making accurate ammo. Even with my cheap lees.
I honestly can make nearly as accurate of ammo with the Lee set as with nice expensive redding dies, though. Even when comparing both FL size dies. I have tested, and the redding gets the edge. The finish of Lee dies is heavily prone to rust, I've found. That's my biggest complaint with Lee. Otherwise I think they offer a good value. I have no issues loading accurate pistol ammo with Lee dies on a Lee classic turret. I seat and crimp in one step, even with cast bullets. Apparently this is tricky according to some but I've never really had any issues getting it right and making accurate ammo. Even with my cheap lees.
Nothing seems to deter Lee from offering the Loadmaster, which isn't a lot of use to anyone but engineers, inventors, and machinists.
the question was about dies not progressive presses. Although I have never owned a Loadmaster I would have to agree with you just from it's reputation. For standard neck sizing though the Lee collet style neck sizers are hard to beat until you are ready to step up to interchangable bushing neck sizing
I honestly can make nearly as accurate of ammo with the Lee set as with nice expensive redding dies, though. Even when comparing both FL size dies.
A shooter/reloader west of Fort Worth, Tx/ wanted to start shooting his 7.7 Japanese. I started with a feeler gage, Rock Chucker, RCBS 308 W forming die and a full length sizing die from Herter. I formed 80 cases that were minimum length, go gage length, no-go length and field reject length, that would be close to 20 cases in each group. The minimum length sized cases chambered, the go-gage length cases would 'just' chamber and the other two groups had to be sized and trimmed.
I made no excuse for using a Herter die, I did not have to adjust the die when sizing the cases to minimum length/full length size, I did adjust the die off the shell holder for the other three groups with a feeler gage.
One more time, I have C&H dies that were made in El Monte, California, printed on the bottom of the display box about how the dies are to be used they state the dies were designed to be used with a shell holder with a height of .125". That was before the Internet was invented.
F. Guffey
I reload with the Rockchucker & RCBS dies. The rings are Sinclair but I use a 7/8 O Ring between the press & lock ring , once its set to the shell holder I lock the ring . Measurements do not fluctuate , I thought they would but they don't. Makes removing the dies much easier. I have them under all my die setups. With a mark on the ring & on the press. Works for me .
Rifle Dies – Among those I have used, I generally prefer Hornady as I like the elliptical expander and floating bullet seater. I load for the 22 Hornet among several other rifle calibers, and the Hornady dies do a great job with the thin Hornet cases that are prone to damage.
I have also used RCBS rifle dies and found them acceptable as well, though I don't care for the small screwdriver adjustment on the bullet seating insert on many of their rifle seating dies. From recent photos, it appears RCBS may be changing over at least some of their seating dies to a larger seating insert that is easily adjusted with the fingers. That would be a welcome change.
Pistol Dies – My preference of those I've use is RCBS. I want to be able to disassemble my dies completely for cleaning and that's one area where the Lee dies and most Hornady pistol dies fall short.
I've damaged two Lee dies by trying to remove the decapping pin collet. Lee uses some sort of mediocre thread arrangement with the collet and disassembly can easily damage the collet threads. I also don't like the “taper” crimp on the pistol dies. It feels more like a roll crimp when adjusting it. Lee calls it a “modified taper crimp”. But I prefer what seems to be the more gentle taper of a typical taper crimp die.
Most Hornady expander dies cannot be disassembled for cleaning. They can probably be cleaned well enough without disassembly, but I still prefer the option to disassemble a die.
I have no experience with Redding, Lyman, or any other dies so I can't offer any first hand comments on them.
I have also used RCBS rifle dies and found them acceptable as well, though I don't care for the small screwdriver adjustment on the bullet seating insert on many of their rifle seating dies. From recent photos, it appears RCBS may be changing over at least some of their seating dies to a larger seating insert that is easily adjusted with the fingers. That would be a welcome change.
Pistol Dies – My preference of those I've use is RCBS. I want to be able to disassemble my dies completely for cleaning and that's one area where the Lee dies and most Hornady pistol dies fall short.
I've damaged two Lee dies by trying to remove the decapping pin collet. Lee uses some sort of mediocre thread arrangement with the collet and disassembly can easily damage the collet threads. I also don't like the “taper” crimp on the pistol dies. It feels more like a roll crimp when adjusting it. Lee calls it a “modified taper crimp”. But I prefer what seems to be the more gentle taper of a typical taper crimp die.
Most Hornady expander dies cannot be disassembled for cleaning. They can probably be cleaned well enough without disassembly, but I still prefer the option to disassemble a die.
I have no experience with Redding, Lyman, or any other dies so I can't offer any first hand comments on them.