Easing into shotgun reloading

There is nothing wrong with the Winchester hulls you already have.

Great , how different are they to the ones I bought (WINCHESTER AA-HS HULLS 12ga USED 2-3/4" 8 CRIMP *500/BOX) Can they be loaded as if they were both the same hulls ?

There is something I feel I should add to this conversation . I have 2 shotguns and in 10 years I've shot at the most 150rds total from them . I'm not a shot gun guy , I'm heavily into precision rifle reloading and shooting although I've not shot as much as I'd like lately . My main shooting buddy is a handgun guy and that's what I shoot most as of late which is ok but I'm not a handgun guy either . I have them and shoot them but there is very little excitement doing so .

I'm only doing this to have ammo if needed , when needed and not to go shoot shotgun every weekend . My guess is at least for the near future the most I'll load any one hull is twice seeing how I'll have close to 1k of them here shortly . I can't imagine I'll shoot 2k rounds any time soon . Meaning how many times I can load each hull at least for now is less important and if I could get 4 loadings out of any of them that would be enough to maybe last a life time haha .

I've been looking at the Hodgdon data and there are several loads using HS-6 which makes me happy , also see Titegroup is available for 12ga . Those are the 2 powders I have the most of . I notice the data only has 00 buck and #4 . Why is there no triple 0 or # 1, 2, or 3 data ? Logic would seem to be if the same components can be used in 00 and #4 you'd likely be able to use those same components with everything in between ???

I would like this debate worked out
Stick with WWAA like you ordered. Your green hulls are not refillable.
VS
There is nothing wrong with the Winchester hulls you already have.

Since MG has pretty much an unlimited supply of these and he wants to load buckshot he has the right hulls for the job
 
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Metal god, I have loaded 20-16-and 12 GA shells but haven’t done so since I lost my Shorthair in 2005. I recently had a resurgence of interest because of sporting clays and I am back in action, but looking for more modern information. Maybe this will help you.

I have a Lyman 2nd Edition shotshell handbook that shows drawings of various hulls sectioned in half to demonstrate the internal wad construction. That was a valuable lesson to show me why one cannot simply use any hull you have available.

The very common red Winchester AA hull has probably not changed and is described as “Compression formed plastic.” It is virtually identical, and I have used these interchangeably, with Remington “RXP” plastic target hulls. They are typically green, but blue ones are “Peters” hulls, and I have those that are black ribbed, when hack-sawed about 1/2-inch above the outside brass portion, appear to be the same and I have used them without any problem.
The black cases differ externally. Both are ribbed, but one has a “silver” outside base labeled “Remington 12 GA” while the other is brass and labeled “Remington-Peters 12 GA.”
The common smooth red Winchester AA cases are stamped, “Winchester AA.” There is also a “silver” outside base, red, ribbed case stamped “Winchester 12 GA” – which has a plastic base wad inside rather than the AA compression formed plastic – but still looks like the AA, and allows the use of the same wad.

I loaded each of these with 19.5gr of Green Dot, a CB 1118-12 wad (Clay Buster generic white AA wad), 1-1/8oz of #8 and Fed 209A primers and fired them off with no issues. I have also loaded the same hulls as described with Remington *97 (209), Winchester 209 and CCI 209 primers. From the load data that I reviewed, all should provide 1200 fps but the pressures in psi differ. Just don’t use magnum primers like CCI 209M unless the recipe calls for magnum primers.

As you review various possible loads, just pay attention to the pressure generated. I looked up the SAAMI maximum pressure for 12 GA and it is 11,500 psi. My 5 loads above have different pressures, but none are near 11,500 psi., according to the load data I reviewed.

Regarding outside “High Brass”or “Low Brass” shells, that is a marketing concept, suggesting High Brass is more powerful. According to Lyman, 2nd Edition:
“High or Low outside brass is no indication of volume, strength or loading potential. Often, a trap, or field load, which has low outside brass will actually use a higher inner base wad to reduce volume and better accommodate its lighter charge.” (but the wad you use for the lead will be smaller as well).

The 2nd edition Lyman lists a LOT of loads, but here is one for 1-1/4-oz of shot, which I would imagine what you’d need if you’re using 00 shot. It considered a “heavy field load.”
Win AA compression formed hull; Unique 24.0gr; Win 209 primer; Win AA12R wad; 1245fps – 9820 LUP
LUP=Lead units of pressure, so cannot be equated to psi.
The Alliant 7-96 issue lists NINE loads with 5 different primers and wads for a 1-1/4oz load in a Win AA hull, using Unique powder. The velocity is 1220 fps but the pressures range from 9500psi to 10,700psi
with charges that vary from 22.5gr to 24.0gr of powder. The difference is due to the type of wad used!
So, pick a hull and primer, then a recipe from any source (Hogdon Reloading site is a good start); wads from Clay Busters can be matched to work with those you may need in the recipe. You will probably have to bite the bullet on powder unless you can find a recipe that uses what you have on hand. Common powders I’ve seen are Red Dot, Green Dot, Blue Dot, Unique, 70-X, 800-X, Herco, Clays, International, Universal, Titegroup, HS-6 and Longshot, just to name a few.
 
Speaking of cost: at least for target or birds/rabbits. Cabela's in my area has been selling Herter's shells in 1-oz and 1-1/8-oz, either #7.5 or#8, for $59.99 a case (10 boxes), plus tax= $63 and change.

I have enough empty hulls, and I was able to get 25-lb of #8 shot for $36. All in all, since I have the equipment, I can reload a case of 1-oz loads for $57.00. It's getting pretty close to how much is my time worth?
 
I would like this debate worked out
Not really what I would call a debate. Each is better for certain things.

The AA hulls are built for multiple loadings and perform very well with bird shot. They have a tapered hull. The plastic side is thicker near the head and thins out as it reaches the mouth. You will find many sources of load data for them because they are so popular. Their only downfall is in loading buck shot. #4 buck fits just fine. But if you load 00 they stack in rows that are sets of 3 pellets each layer. In a tapered hull the bottom 3 pellets don't quite fit right. The straight hull design of the other Winchester and many other manufacturer of hulls work quite well for 00 buck. The rows stack neatly and give good patterns. You might get an extra loading or 2 from AA hulls, but that is not the only thing to consider. I have, and load both types of hulls. When you get the AA hulls cut one down the middle so you can see the taper. Do the same with one of your other shells that you already have. It will give you a better understanding of the case and how they are assembled.

As to hulls not being reloadable....if it was loaded once I can load it at least a couple more times. Just need data. Check out Mannyca on youtube and his "How many times can I load _______shotgun shells. https://youtu.be/tUdujvONPow
This one is Winchester universal shells. He did a bunch of them with different brands, including AA hulls.
 
. . I notice the data only has 00 buck and #4 . Why is there no triple 0 or # 1, 2, or 3 data ? Logic would seem to be if the same components can be used in 00 and #4 you'd likely be able to use those same components with everything in between ???

There is data for larger shot in specialty data manuals. Ballistic Products has a buckshot manual with a plethora of data for all sizes. Most of the locally available shot is 00 or #4 buck. So that is what sells the most and is easiest to load. When you get into larger shot it stacks in rows of 2 pellets per row and can be difficult to get good patterns with standard wads. Specialty wads help, but are not available at local stores. You might find the specialty wads and shot cards at your local store, but only if loading buckshot is fairly common in your area. The in between sizes don't fit well in even rows for 12 gauge. But they might in 16 or 20. Watch some YouTube videos from Bubba Roundtree Outdoors. Search buckshot loading. He is in South Carolina, where shotguns are the weapon of choice for deer hunting with dogs. He explains and shows many different loads and sizes of buckshot.
 
I got the ballistics products manual when I started loading. I read the entirety of the actual manual part before I looked at the data. I could then search through, picking really any one, or combination of, component (s) and find a few different loads. I was then able to start compiling a list of possible loads I wanted, then narrow it down to a list with a few different components as possible.

I've still got the book, and no use for it, should you desire it.

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First, understand that with shotgun you are as likely to get too little pressure as you are to have too much pressure. The key is following a recipe and doing so consistently.

You have to decide if you want to go down the ballistic products route, you will make fine loads and they sell each component.

The other popular data source is Lyman if I remember right. Find a load and then buy some once fired hulls. Rem STS are popular as are Win AA. Then build the loads as instructed. I use the Lee Load All. Works well enough. With slug or similar, you may need to weigh each charge because a bushing isn’t big enough.

Buckshot will be a little tougher. I would load some birdshot to get the hang of loading and patterning. Then try buckshot.
 
I shoot a lot of shotgun; it is my main hobby.
You match the hulls you have to the wad you need as well as the primer. Are there acceptable substitutions? Yes, but for now stick to published recipes. You do not "work up a load" like you would for your precision rifle shooting The recipe is what it is. Most shotgun powders are also usable with handguns; lots of crossover there. Yes, there are recipes for TiteGroup, but TiteWad was developed for shotgun.
Buckshot pellets are stacked by hand in lieu of using a MEC or similar to dispense.
The Lyman manual is good; I still prefer the online data from Alliant and Hodgdon for the latest up to date data.
 
No. They cannot be loaded the same with same powder dose, wads, and payload. It is like LC and Aguila: you can try and fiddle around, but why would you want to. Plentiful data exists for the WWAA, and quality components. You are learning.

When I started reloading, that was the first thing I did (load crappy hulls) and the first lesson I learned (stick with quality hulls and matching wads per published data. If you really want to experiment with those hulls, do so. I am suggesting get the known good stuff to work right, first. I suspect you will find you get better results, and then abandon your free hulls quickly when you try those after establishing a baseline of WWAA success. Look at local ranges and you may get WWAA free, too.
 
Re: primers: from 1988 Hercules Reloaders' Guide:

CCI 109 and CCI 209 are basically identical and can be interchanged
CCI 209M (Magnum) is "hotter" and cannot be substituted for CCI 109 or 209. Use 209M only as listed
Rem 209 is "hotter" and cannot be substituted for Rem 97* primers (**)
Rem 209P is not interchangeable with Rem 209

**My carton of Remington primers is labeled 97* (209)
 
Re: primers: from 1988 Hercules Reloaders' Guide:



CCI 109 and CCI 209 are basically identical and can be interchanged

CCI 209M (Magnum) is "hotter" and cannot be substituted for CCI 109 or 209. Use 209M only as listed

Rem 209 is "hotter" and cannot be substituted for Rem 97* primers (**)

Rem 209P is not interchangeable with Rem 209



**My carton of Remington primers is labeled 97* (209)
Another thing to add to this, is the European hulls take a slightly larger primer. It's almost like berdan vs boxer.

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Update-ish

Hey everyone you all have been great and I’d like to thank all that have posted so far . It took awhile but my manual and hulls finally shipped . So now I need some wads and #4 buck or 00-buck . Any links to the buck shot would be great and I'll see if my local place has any . Although not a must I think I’d like to use plated or coated shot , again not a must if its a good/great price I don’t care then .

I’m going to use my HS-6 because I have several pounds and don’t like it much for handgun loading . Hodgdon has both #4 and 00 using HS-6 and Win 209 primers . The wads for each are different WAA12F114 for 00 and WAA12R for the #4 . They seem pretty cheap so I’ll just buy both regardless of what I start with .

I guess I’m just about ready just need a reasonable place to buy the shot ???

Thanks
MG

Oh what are the shells called I have ( the green ones ) there are 3 Winchester 2-3/4 shells to choose from on the website. I just don’t know specifically what the green shell I have are called or which to click on if using those shell through Hodgdon or a manual for that matter ??
 
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If you already bought the wads, fine. But you should check out the Claybuster site for their appropriate "generic." I'm using CB-1118-12to replace WAA-12 for 1-1/8oz in 12 Ga, and CB-1078-20 to replace the WAA wads for 7/8oz 20-GA shotshells.

(claybusterwads.com)

RE: hulls, my Lyman 3rd Edition, Shotshell Handbook does not list any 12GA GREEN hulls from Winchester- just Remington-Peters. If the Winchester website shows the internal construction of those 3 hulls you can cut one of yours length-wise to the brass
base, then cut that section out and compare to those on the site.

However, from the discussions above I get the impression hulls for the shot size you're planning to use are different than those used for common target or hunting hulls.

For shot, I am of no help- I buy shot either at Cabela's or my local smaller gun shop. I haven't seen anything but 7-1/2 and 8 lately.
 
Your green shells are not intended to be reloaded, and will not appear in manuals. They are manufactured for a special purpose, and are single use. You "may" be able to fit a wad, powder and shot and make it go bang. But if you want to use published data, then I recommend you forget about using those green hulls. Not all hulls are intended to be reloadable. If you want predictable results with published data, then acquire reloadable hulls (the ones that are listed in reloading manuals). They will use specified wads.
Most Claybuster wads duplicate bird shot loads.
Using 00 pellets is a narrow speciality load. You may not be able to use the R12 red and 1 1/4 oz wads with buckshot. See the load data, you may need cardboard wads, whatever the load data specifies.
 
The Data specifies the wads I posted above . When I first looked for them I did find the equivalent clay busters somewhere and had planned to just buy those .
 
You need to make sure the green shells are made with the straight hulls or the tapered hulls. Cut one down the length of the case and look at the thickness of the wall and the wad inside the base. If it is a straight hull with a separate base wad, you have polyformed hulls. If the sides are tapered and the base is molded with the sides it is a compression formed case. You can find load data for both. I load buckshot in WAA12F114 wads and WAA red wads. There is data for them in the Lyman #4. I found data that calls for cutting the petals off of the WAA red wad and using it as a gas seal to get more shot in the load. IIRC it was 00 buck loaded in rows of 3 for a total of 15 pellets. I don't remember the charge, but there were a few powders noted. The 00 buck can also be stacked in rows of 2 with the petals intact. The total was 10 pellets. I will look for the data in the morning and let you know where to find it.

If you can't find plated shot, you can powder coat them yourself. Or you can lube them with Lee liquid Alox.
 
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They look straight to me but I'm not sure what I'm looking for .
 
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