Dog Attack
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Danindetroit
New member
None are phosgene gas, I could be wrong, but I believe chlorine, is the easiest chemical created.
XavierBreath
New member
Getting back to the original question.............
If the dog already has my weak arm in his mouth, and is steadily ripping it apart, and I have a blade in the strong hand, the dog will soon find that blade inserted through his neck right below his cervical spine, even if my hand has to follow it into his flesh. Once deep iside, it is comming down and slicing through his windpipe, tendons and any arteries I can take with it. Dogs have a hard time continuing to bite with their heads practically cut off.
Of course, there are a lot of ways to prevent yourself from being in this predicament in the first place, and they are highly recommended. Given your scenerio though, that is how I would approach the problem.
Blind Tree Frog
New member
I'm not so sure I'd be so quick to say that. 150lbs in dumbell form is hardly the same as 150 lbs of dead weight (say your drunk friend) or a 100lb ball of muscle and teeth that's thrashing. Not saying that you couldn't do that, but the dumbell doesn't generally fight to go in a different direction.
My Apologies
They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks, . . . but sometimes he'll pick up a new thing.
I was wrong in stating that bleach and ammonia produced phosgene gas. I had simply relied on training I was given 35 or so years ago in basic refrigeration class. I was told that burning any of the chlorine rich refrigerants, or mixing bleach and ammonia would produce phosgene, . . . and was told that I took my life in my own hands doing so.
Obviously, after researching my long accepted training, . . . I was wrong.
Thanks for the info, . . . but still don't mix it. Chlorine will seriously mess up your lungs too.
May God bless,
Dwight
They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks, . . . but sometimes he'll pick up a new thing.
I was wrong in stating that bleach and ammonia produced phosgene gas. I had simply relied on training I was given 35 or so years ago in basic refrigeration class. I was told that burning any of the chlorine rich refrigerants, or mixing bleach and ammonia would produce phosgene, . . . and was told that I took my life in my own hands doing so.
Obviously, after researching my long accepted training, . . . I was wrong.
Thanks for the info, . . . but still don't mix it. Chlorine will seriously mess up your lungs too.
May God bless,
Dwight
This may be a bit redundant, but if a dog is on my arm, and if I can get my folder out, I am cutting as deep as the AFCK will go...eyes first if I can...then neck area if I can do so safely without cutting myself...I will also go for the spine area...ribs etc. Given a choice with this scenerio, I think the knife may be better than a gun...especially a large knife...the most important thing though in my mind is to suddenly attack back as viciously as the dog with the mindset of kill or be killed.
I think it's also important to be able to read canine body language. If a dog is approaching you with its ears down, he's probably more interested in licking your face than seizing your arm.
We had an interesting demonstration of the power of dog jaws on Thanksgiving, when Rufus, my in-laws' 40-pound Welsh Springer Spaniel, reached up on the counter and grabbed a turkey leg. It took three people working together to get him to release his grip on the delicious loot.
We had an interesting demonstration of the power of dog jaws on Thanksgiving, when Rufus, my in-laws' 40-pound Welsh Springer Spaniel, reached up on the counter and grabbed a turkey leg. It took three people working together to get him to release his grip on the delicious loot.
Throat
Having seen a friend's pit bull "play" with a five-pound steel ball bearing, and turn a 3' 2x4 into match sticks for fun in about an hour, I will want to get the fight over sooner rather than later--especially with head shaking and drag attempts going on.
Assuming you already have one arm lost to the dog's mouth . . .
I would suggest, along the lines of many others, that a dog's throat is it's closest and most vulnerable spot. Try to lift the dog up as high as possible and first punch its throat to try to collapse the windpipe. Second move is to grab the throat and throw the dog ahead of you, on it's back, onto the ground and you land on top. Then choke it into submission with both your hands, as the one in it's mouth will likely come free.
The two elements of submission for a dog (most animals) are:
1. On back on ground so legs are useless
2. Throat (kill area) compromised
Take breath away from any animal and it will release/submit.
If a dog is already viciously shaking your arm, getting to your knife or gun and wielding it effectively (especially if you made the mistake of letting the dog get your strong arm) sounds macho but would probably take a lot longer and be more dangerous even to you than using your physical size, leverage, and knowledge of the dog's vulnerabilities to draw the event to its conclusion quicker.
BTW, if you can get a vicious kick or knuckle punch to a dog's throat before he gets to one of your body parts, the fight will likely be over as soon as it starts. Collapse the larynxx/trachea of any animal, including a human, and there won't be any fight left in it. You don't need a gun or knife for this, just knowledge of how to do it.
If I had a knife out and the dog was on my arm, I would go for it's throat. It's close and vulnerable.
Getting behind a dog that's attacking you is about impossible--only good for getting it off someone or something else by grabbing legs or other body parts, and if you don't do substantial damage at that end, it's going to turn and get you. I'd rather kick it with all the force possible between the hind legs--male or female, attempting to break it's pelvis even, rather than grab onto it.
If you have to shoot--I've seen too many anmials shot that do not stop their activities, and it is too hard with all that commotion to think you can get a CNS shot the first time. Break the pelvis or both shoulders and you will stop the attack--just like dangerous game, which a dog attack is.
Just my thoughts. CB3
Having seen a friend's pit bull "play" with a five-pound steel ball bearing, and turn a 3' 2x4 into match sticks for fun in about an hour, I will want to get the fight over sooner rather than later--especially with head shaking and drag attempts going on.
Assuming you already have one arm lost to the dog's mouth . . .
I would suggest, along the lines of many others, that a dog's throat is it's closest and most vulnerable spot. Try to lift the dog up as high as possible and first punch its throat to try to collapse the windpipe. Second move is to grab the throat and throw the dog ahead of you, on it's back, onto the ground and you land on top. Then choke it into submission with both your hands, as the one in it's mouth will likely come free.
The two elements of submission for a dog (most animals) are:
1. On back on ground so legs are useless
2. Throat (kill area) compromised
Take breath away from any animal and it will release/submit.
If a dog is already viciously shaking your arm, getting to your knife or gun and wielding it effectively (especially if you made the mistake of letting the dog get your strong arm) sounds macho but would probably take a lot longer and be more dangerous even to you than using your physical size, leverage, and knowledge of the dog's vulnerabilities to draw the event to its conclusion quicker.
BTW, if you can get a vicious kick or knuckle punch to a dog's throat before he gets to one of your body parts, the fight will likely be over as soon as it starts. Collapse the larynxx/trachea of any animal, including a human, and there won't be any fight left in it. You don't need a gun or knife for this, just knowledge of how to do it.
If I had a knife out and the dog was on my arm, I would go for it's throat. It's close and vulnerable.
Getting behind a dog that's attacking you is about impossible--only good for getting it off someone or something else by grabbing legs or other body parts, and if you don't do substantial damage at that end, it's going to turn and get you. I'd rather kick it with all the force possible between the hind legs--male or female, attempting to break it's pelvis even, rather than grab onto it.
If you have to shoot--I've seen too many anmials shot that do not stop their activities, and it is too hard with all that commotion to think you can get a CNS shot the first time. Break the pelvis or both shoulders and you will stop the attack--just like dangerous game, which a dog attack is.
Just my thoughts. CB3
XavierBreath
New member
Wow, I thought I was going to get flamed for stating I would practically cut the dog's head off!
I recall one dogfight, between a Golden Retriever and a mutt of like size. The Golden had the mutt's entire neck in it's mouth. We picked up both dog's back legs and pulled and pulled to no avail. We finally took them into the river nearby (we were on the bank) and held both dogs underwater. The Golden continued to hold on for about a minute and a half. He finally let go, and we separated the dogs.
A Golden Retriever is about the friendliest dog out there. This one, (mine) is a big love bucket, but the other dog urinated on my truck tire, and my Golden went bezerk. Since that day, I respect the jaws of any dog.
I recall one dogfight, between a Golden Retriever and a mutt of like size. The Golden had the mutt's entire neck in it's mouth. We picked up both dog's back legs and pulled and pulled to no avail. We finally took them into the river nearby (we were on the bank) and held both dogs underwater. The Golden continued to hold on for about a minute and a half. He finally let go, and we separated the dogs.
A Golden Retriever is about the friendliest dog out there. This one, (mine) is a big love bucket, but the other dog urinated on my truck tire, and my Golden went bezerk. Since that day, I respect the jaws of any dog.
A friend of my parents', years and years ago, was dog-sitting a chihuaua. This little dog was constantly badgering the friend's German Shepherd, Maggie. Being a very well-trained dog, she put up with it for quite a while.
Finally, there was one irritation too many, and she snatched the chihuahua's head in her mouth, and held it there for about 15 seconds, then let go.
That was the last of her problems from the little ankle-biter.
Finally, there was one irritation too many, and she snatched the chihuahua's head in her mouth, and held it there for about 15 seconds, then let go.
That was the last of her problems from the little ankle-biter.
Dusty Miller
New member
YEARS ago whenst I was just a lad I worked as a meter reader for Sc. Ca. Ed. and had to spray a male doberman. I'd heard that they don't bark, just come up to you and start to work. Upon getting sprayed in the face, he stopped, spread his legs and peed on the ground. So, I'm a big believer in spray. I believe a bottle of ammonia will serve as well.
A Nissan Double Cab pick up backed up and drove over my Great Danes neck with its left rear tire. It did not hurt him.
A surrendering dog will offer its vulnerable parts to you. It will turn onto its back and expose the throat and the soft stomach. Also, most dogs feel pain in the ears very much, this is why they were cropped.
To train little dogs not to play too rough and bite, I press their gums into their teeth.
With a big, powerful dog it is very hard to fight it, dogs can tear and bite at incredible speed. Even for an experienced dog handler it can happen to be outsmarted or simply overpowered.
A surrendering dog will offer its vulnerable parts to you. It will turn onto its back and expose the throat and the soft stomach. Also, most dogs feel pain in the ears very much, this is why they were cropped.
To train little dogs not to play too rough and bite, I press their gums into their teeth.
With a big, powerful dog it is very hard to fight it, dogs can tear and bite at incredible speed. Even for an experienced dog handler it can happen to be outsmarted or simply overpowered.
dog attacks......
Still hope that the human -even under stress and short time reaction can out think a dog.... I have trained, been around, owned and taken care of dogs for all my life.
#1 - the chocolate idea is funny but it is just that..... We have a friend that have a small mixed dog and it gets into chocolate on a normal basis.... So safe to say it's not the Ole Alka-Seltzer on the seagull routine.
#2 - Like any wild animal to include humans...... If you turn off the brain the creature is no longer a threat.... end of story. If you have a rotts mouth on one of your arms I suggest using the other to kill the animal with the same head shot.... Sure the shot needs some safety thought...cause if you kill your friend whom is trying to free the dog off the other arm you have failed to end the threat to yourself...and you get to live with your bad judgement the rest of your life...
#3 - 99% of dogs that I have seen, run into and read about bark or growl if they are pissed off. I would suggest when you hear his vocal alarms you should plan your safety retreat and actions to defuse a possible attack. We need to act as though we are smarter than the K9.
#4 - I think an awful alot of -what if and -well it could,seem to over power the ability to reason on this topic. Example.... If the police car says K9 on the door....stay back..... I would suggest not trying to put your hand in the window to pet the nice Rin Tin Tin...... If you do......well, all I can say is I hope your able to use the other hand to feed and wipe yourself with....
Lets be safe out there..... have a good day
Still hope that the human -even under stress and short time reaction can out think a dog.... I have trained, been around, owned and taken care of dogs for all my life.
#1 - the chocolate idea is funny but it is just that..... We have a friend that have a small mixed dog and it gets into chocolate on a normal basis.... So safe to say it's not the Ole Alka-Seltzer on the seagull routine.
#2 - Like any wild animal to include humans...... If you turn off the brain the creature is no longer a threat.... end of story. If you have a rotts mouth on one of your arms I suggest using the other to kill the animal with the same head shot.... Sure the shot needs some safety thought...cause if you kill your friend whom is trying to free the dog off the other arm you have failed to end the threat to yourself...and you get to live with your bad judgement the rest of your life...
#3 - 99% of dogs that I have seen, run into and read about bark or growl if they are pissed off. I would suggest when you hear his vocal alarms you should plan your safety retreat and actions to defuse a possible attack. We need to act as though we are smarter than the K9.
#4 - I think an awful alot of -what if and -well it could,seem to over power the ability to reason on this topic. Example.... If the police car says K9 on the door....stay back..... I would suggest not trying to put your hand in the window to pet the nice Rin Tin Tin...... If you do......well, all I can say is I hope your able to use the other hand to feed and wipe yourself with....
Lets be safe out there..... have a good day
#1 - the chocolate idea is funny but it is just that..... We have a friend that have a small mixed dog and it gets into chocolate on a normal basis.... So safe to say it's not the Ole Alka-Seltzer on the seagull routine.
Yes, but chocolate is in fact a toxin - theobromine, to be specific.
This chemical is what caffiene is metabolized to in humans, and the effects are similar to caffeine poisoning. Dogs metabolize it much more slowly than humans, so dangerous levels can build up much more quickly.
Generally, one ounce of baking chocolate per 10 pounds of body weight is a toxic dose for dogs.
http://www.dogownersdigest.com/news/library/chocolate-dog-poisoning.shtml
Yes, but chocolate is in fact a toxin - theobromine, to be specific.
This chemical is what caffiene is metabolized to in humans, and the effects are similar to caffeine poisoning. Dogs metabolize it much more slowly than humans, so dangerous levels can build up much more quickly.
Generally, one ounce of baking chocolate per 10 pounds of body weight is a toxic dose for dogs.
http://www.dogownersdigest.com/news/library/chocolate-dog-poisoning.shtml
Given the circumstances, I would like to think I would try to cut/puncture the throat. More than likely, his belly would be most accessible. Just keep trying to gut him. Hopefully that particular dogs threshold will not exceed his guts hanging out of his belly. Pit bull did exactly that to my kid sister, my Dad hit it over the shoulders with a 2x4, it let go and ran off. Brother and me found the dog at some house later that evening under someones truck. I had a machete, he had my Dad's old 22 with cheap ammo. Didn't ask no questions. We just put some 22 in him, dragged him out, and went to work on him. What that dog did wasn't going to stand. Everthing turned out okay. Years later, same thing almost happened with my brothers kids, soon as I saw the dog coming, out came my glock23/150's +P's from Cor-bon, i think. Broke the shoulder, no exit, stopped and turned. Dog officers later put the dog down.
I am an Officer in NJ. About three years ago on Superbowl Sunday I was chasing an armed suspect and caught him in an old what I though was abandoned crack house. Inside was a pitbull who's voicebox had been surgically removed by a Vet. I never heard or saw him coming until he was nawing on my right thigh. I couldn't shoot because I would have killed the suspect who was already cuffed on the ground underneath us. As I pulled away to get him off my partner came in and dragged the suspect away from us. Meanwhile another Officer came in and said "Poke your pen inside his mouth underneath his tongue!" So I did and he immediately came off!! I then was forced to shoot several times because the dog lunged at me almost immediately after releasing his grip. So yes sticking a sharp object underneath his tongue will work, but what will you do then?