Does anyone carry a full size revolver?
- Thread starter bspillman
- Start date
I've never had a problem carrying a 4" S&W, Colt, or Ruger revolver in an OWB, strong side holster. The barrel length is the last thing I think about.
These days I carry a 2" Model 12 S&W in the same style holster, but that's more because it's light than anything else. It's still a "K" frame. A 4" one would be no harder to conceal.
These days I carry a 2" Model 12 S&W in the same style holster, but that's more because it's light than anything else. It's still a "K" frame. A 4" one would be no harder to conceal.
I carry most days here in KY, but generally not concealed, which was the point of your post if I take your meaning correctly. Here's the rig: both belt and holster are home made and are about the most comfortable to wear while knocking about the farm. Later in the fall and winter, the rig qualifies as a concealment rig with the appropriate coat or vest.
All of my revolver holsters work equally well on a 2" gun belt or my normal jeans belt...carried with a 12 round slide on belt carrier, they're about all that I need for the day's run of activities.
Rod
Bird's Head Ruger in .32 H&R in a Tom Threepersons type rig.
A 12 round ammunition slide on carrying .357 reloads.
Another view with a .44 Spl Ruger Flat Top on the same belt. The buckle, BTW, came off a 1904 McClellan cavalry saddle stirrup strap. The intense blue of the towel used as background, gave the belt an odd 'pinkish' cast that it doesn't have in daylight.
All of my revolver holsters work equally well on a 2" gun belt or my normal jeans belt...carried with a 12 round slide on belt carrier, they're about all that I need for the day's run of activities.
Rod
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Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
New member
NICE WORK Rodfac!!!!
Wish I had a sewing maching to clean up my stiching!!!!!!!!!!
NICE.
CDOC
Wish I had a sewing maching to clean up my stiching!!!!!!!!!!
NICE.
CDOC
I sometimes carry a 3" K-frame (S&W Model 10).....in a Bianchi 111 Cyclone holster (belt holster with thumb break). This is done strongside, with a 20 or so degree forward cant - approx. at the 2:30 position. Lately though, I've carried my Taurus 851 snubby or one of my autos more often. The snubby usually goes in my right front pocket, in a nylon pocket holster. I also have a paddle holster for the snubby, which I wear crossdraw at the 10:00 position - but not too often, because this seems to print a bit too much. I've tried the snubby in the same holster at 2:30, but for some reason, it tends to print even more. The autos always are carried in a Gould & Goodrich Yaqui belt slide, in the 2:00 to 2:30 position. Neither of my autos are "pocket guns", but oddly enough, they don't seem to print as much.
Oh and as to cover for this - I wear an un-tucked shirt, usually a T-shirt, about one size larger than I really need, in the warmer months. In the winter, the shirt will be tucked in and I'll wear a loose jacket - but the guns might move to the 3:00 - 3:30 position, depending on circumstances.
Oh and as to cover for this - I wear an un-tucked shirt, usually a T-shirt, about one size larger than I really need, in the warmer months. In the winter, the shirt will be tucked in and I'll wear a loose jacket - but the guns might move to the 3:00 - 3:30 position, depending on circumstances.
Post #8 says: My most likely scenario is a carjacking while at a gas station, and I'm confident I can draw and fire under the circumstances. My hammer is fully cocked as I clear leather, and the hammer drops as the gun comes level.
Sounds like a prescription for a blown out knee cap...Rod
Sounds like a prescription for a blown out knee cap...Rod
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Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
New member
rodfac,
Ah haaaaa, A wheel to mark your stiches.
VERY WELL done!
Still wish I had a machine, but for the small amount of leather work I do I just use the hand awl.
Built a really fine wrist cuff for hunting with my 45/70 single shot. Took two tries to get er right, but the second generation is really fine.
Because of the type of rifle sling I use, a butt cuff doesn't work and where much of my hunting is done while wearing coats & vests 7 and sweatshirts in layers, a belt slide is not the answer.
Hope it doesn't take two tries to get the ankle holster working, as it uses up lots of leather.
CDOC
Ah haaaaa, A wheel to mark your stiches.
VERY WELL done!
Still wish I had a machine, but for the small amount of leather work I do I just use the hand awl.
Built a really fine wrist cuff for hunting with my 45/70 single shot. Took two tries to get er right, but the second generation is really fine.
Because of the type of rifle sling I use, a butt cuff doesn't work and where much of my hunting is done while wearing coats & vests 7 and sweatshirts in layers, a belt slide is not the answer.
Hope it doesn't take two tries to get the ankle holster working, as it uses up lots of leather.
CDOC
Crusty....yep, the 2nd one is always better than the first...my sons' have commented that when you make it yourself, it's usable on the first attempt, looks about right on the 2nd, and good enuf for a Christmas present on the 3rd.
I hear you on those cold western winters...I was stationed at Fairchild AFB in the early 70's...hunted elk down in the Blue Mountains area on the ID border and learned to pee in a hurry for fear of consequences...Here's the tool make up for double needle stitching...the hole spacer is there if you look closely...and a cpl of add'l projects over the years....it's addictive. For really thick work, multiple thicknesses of skirting leather, we drill the holes using a sewing awl needle, then glue it and stitch it using the same two needle technique...works pretty well, tho the back side stitching is usually not as straight at the front; afterall it's a gun belt or holster not a county fair exhibit. All told, the tools probably go for $40 and they'll last a lifetime. The "Oberg" stamp, BTW I had made up in the 70's...for about $25...they're outa sight now...
Best regards, Rod
I hear you on those cold western winters...I was stationed at Fairchild AFB in the early 70's...hunted elk down in the Blue Mountains area on the ID border and learned to pee in a hurry for fear of consequences...Here's the tool make up for double needle stitching...the hole spacer is there if you look closely...and a cpl of add'l projects over the years....it's addictive. For really thick work, multiple thicknesses of skirting leather, we drill the holes using a sewing awl needle, then glue it and stitch it using the same two needle technique...works pretty well, tho the back side stitching is usually not as straight at the front; afterall it's a gun belt or holster not a county fair exhibit. All told, the tools probably go for $40 and they'll last a lifetime. The "Oberg" stamp, BTW I had made up in the 70's...for about $25...they're outa sight now...
Best regards, Rod
357 Python
New member
I will occassionally carry a 4" S&W 10-8, 4" S&W 28-2, 4" S&W 686-1, 4" Colt Python, or a 5 1/2" Ruqer Vaquero (44 Mag). I usually have no problem carrying any of them. I also carry although rarely a 6" Colt Python. The 6" Python is usually carried in a Bianchi model 5BH holster or a Bianchi X-15 shoulder holster.
Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
New member
Thanks rodfac!
You are for sure a step ahead of me!!
Your sons have it about right about the second and third one.
My ankle rig will hopefully support the SP101 without being overly tight on the leg.
Doesn't follow the normal designs. Time will tell.
Do need to get you weaned away from the "B&Cs." Ya know, those products made by S&W the canners of fruits and veggies.
By the way, "B&C" stands for Bean Can gun.
Always tell my friend, a B&C fan, some times known as "Bean Can Fan", that if you look close you can still see the ripples left over from the tin cans on the barrels of his B&Cs.
CDOC
You are for sure a step ahead of me!!
Your sons have it about right about the second and third one.
My ankle rig will hopefully support the SP101 without being overly tight on the leg.
Doesn't follow the normal designs. Time will tell.
Do need to get you weaned away from the "B&Cs." Ya know, those products made by S&W the canners of fruits and veggies.
By the way, "B&C" stands for Bean Can gun.
Always tell my friend, a B&C fan, some times known as "Bean Can Fan", that if you look close you can still see the ripples left over from the tin cans on the barrels of his B&Cs.
CDOC
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