Does .44 Mag get any easier?
- Thread starter Pond James Pond
- Start date
Unless you're loading maximum loads all the time, .44 Magnum brass will last dozens of loadings. I, personally, have never bought a single piece of virgin .44 Magnum brass but instead have used "retired" factory ammo almost exclusively. I don't even bother to keep track of how many loadings I've fired through a particular piece of brass and I've never had one split or become otherwise unuseable. As such, 100-200 pieces of brass should be plenty to keep you shooting for a good long while as long as you're not loading them to the ragged edge (sounds like you're more interested in mild loads anyway). The components that you should be more concerned about availability for are bullets, powder, and primers as these cannot be reused.
For light loads, you don't need premium bullets. Good old fashioned cast lead is just fine and will be cheaper to buy or can be made yourself with the proper equipment. Standard large pistol primers will also work fine and should be available from any establishment selling reloading supplies (I use Winchester primers, but most others would work fine as well). For powder, I find Alliant Unique to be affordable and good for light .44 Magnum loads but others might work just as well if not better.
Pond, one of the great things about the 44 magnum is the number of different rounds you can run through it. Let me suggest a steady diet of 44 special rounds with some Buffalo Bore hot 44 SPECIAL loads when needed. Finally if you ever need to you can shoot full house 44 Magnum loads.
Shooting is should be fun
not a day of punishment, shoot ammo that is fun for you. You don't have to prove to anyone how macho you can be by shooting ammo that is not enjoyable for you.
Shooting is should be fun
not a day of punishment, shoot ammo that is fun for you. You don't have to prove to anyone how macho you can be by shooting ammo that is not enjoyable for you.Pond James Pond
New member
I am very concerned with them!!
Bullets: only found one shop with one type so far: FN-FMJs, grain unknown.
Primers are OK, I think
Cases: will need to buy factory rounds for those, as you suggested
Powder: Only seen one manufacturer on the shelves: Vihtavuori, but at least the whole range is available...
MrDontPlay
New member
When I first got my S&W 500 it was sometimes uncomfortable to shoot. I later learned that it was my technique that was causing the discomfort. Now that I've learned how to hold the gun, and I've stopped trying to control the uncontrollable, I can shoot it all day long with hornady and magtech factory ammo. As soon as I can find some lead bullets and get my hands on some trail boss powder, it will be like a 38. It has a hogue grip which I would highly recommend.
Bullets may be less of an issue if you take up casting. Once you've got the casting equipment, all you'll really need is a source of lead, bullet lube (many people use bee's wax), and whatever other material you want to include in your alloy. I don't cast myself because I can buy cast bullets locally for a reasonable price, so I can't really offer any more information about it.
Another thought, have you asked any of the local shops if they can special order ammo and/or components for you? While you may not be able to order these items directly yourself, I can't help but wonder if a gun shop could.
Another thought, have you asked any of the local shops if they can special order ammo and/or components for you? While you may not be able to order these items directly yourself, I can't help but wonder if a gun shop could.
Pond James Pond
New member
This is also a possibility.
I guess my reticence stems from spending about €500 on all the reloading gear, then some casting gear, then the time it takes, hoping I take to reloading and enjoy it, all to make the .44 Mag Redhawk better suited to me...
I tell you; I'm in a right pickle, I am!!
jim n iowa
New member
You will adjust to the recoil. Two things come to mind your grip or the gun design. I have a Colt Trooper 4" in .357 and shooting 158g factory loads hurts. My wife has a 4" S&W 686 that is way more pleasant to shoot these same loads in.
I shoot .44mag 240g reloads warm in Ruger 5.5 and 7.5 Redhawks and it is no problem now, just don't fight the recoil. Shoot more and you will like it more.
Jim
I shoot .44mag 240g reloads warm in Ruger 5.5 and 7.5 Redhawks and it is no problem now, just don't fight the recoil. Shoot more and you will like it more.
Jim
Pond James Pond
New member
Well, another question should therefore be: how should I attempt to hold a big-bore gun?
Also, if I don't have ready access to bazilions of grips, what can I use on my grip to improve it? Please bear in mind that the grips are already quite big for me.
I don't have small hands but they are not huge shovels either!!
Also, if I don't have ready access to bazilions of grips, what can I use on my grip to improve it? Please bear in mind that the grips are already quite big for me.
I don't have small hands but they are not huge shovels either!!
The key of course is as some have said - shoot more often and work on your technique.
Don't try to fight the recoil - just work on controlling your hands and body so you can get the gun back onto target quickly and effectively. Start out slow and concentrate on your grip and stance. Work on technique and you'll start to grow faster and more tolerant of recoil.
Just so you know a proper grip on the pistol helps a lot in perceived recoil. Grip the gun improperly and you won't enjoy it. Get a good grip on it and you'll be fine all day long. Here's a great example of the grip I use on revolvers (just to clarify that while I use the same grip as he does I am nowhere near as good as he is):
http://www.myoutdoortv.com/shooting/shooting-usa/jerry-miculek-revolver-grip
Changing the factory grips to something easier on the hands and larger to fit the hands properly works well too.
Don't try to fight the recoil - just work on controlling your hands and body so you can get the gun back onto target quickly and effectively. Start out slow and concentrate on your grip and stance. Work on technique and you'll start to grow faster and more tolerant of recoil.
Just so you know a proper grip on the pistol helps a lot in perceived recoil. Grip the gun improperly and you won't enjoy it. Get a good grip on it and you'll be fine all day long. Here's a great example of the grip I use on revolvers (just to clarify that while I use the same grip as he does I am nowhere near as good as he is):
http://www.myoutdoortv.com/shooting/shooting-usa/jerry-miculek-revolver-grip
Changing the factory grips to something easier on the hands and larger to fit the hands properly works well too.
Another thing to bear in mind is that you don't necessarily need expensive equipment to load good ammo. An inexpensive Lee single-stage press will load just as good, if not better, ammo than a Dillon progressive, it'll just take more time to do it.
The bare minimum in reloading equipment that you need is a good manual, single-stage press, dies, a priming tool, powder scale, and a powder funnel. Casting equipment I'm not sure about since I don't cast.
A common mistake people make with bigbores is to grip them as high on the backstrap as possible. While that is the proper technique for shooting at speed since it reduces muzzle rise, it also directs more of the force straight back into the hand thereby exacerbating felt recoil. Ideally, the palmswell of the grip should be smack dab in the middle of your palm even with your middle and ring fingers.
Honestly, it sounds as though the Hogue grips may be a tad large for your hands. If you can find some, the smaller wooden panels that come on the 5 1/2" and 7 1/2" Redhawks may fit you better.
The bare minimum in reloading equipment that you need is a good manual, single-stage press, dies, a priming tool, powder scale, and a powder funnel. Casting equipment I'm not sure about since I don't cast.
A common mistake people make with bigbores is to grip them as high on the backstrap as possible. While that is the proper technique for shooting at speed since it reduces muzzle rise, it also directs more of the force straight back into the hand thereby exacerbating felt recoil. Ideally, the palmswell of the grip should be smack dab in the middle of your palm even with your middle and ring fingers.
Honestly, it sounds as though the Hogue grips may be a tad large for your hands. If you can find some, the smaller wooden panels that come on the 5 1/2" and 7 1/2" Redhawks may fit you better.
Shotgun693
New member
Originally it was only loaded with Black Powder, both of these 'facts' are no longer true. I regularly shoot .45 Colt out of my rifle. My post is based on the OPs post, neither you nor I know what might be available to him. I carried a .44, now I have 4 .45s. I didn't just fall off of a Turnip Truck.
Deaf Smith
New member
Hey, I have an old Lee turret press, 3 hole variety that is 30 years old, and I load 9mm, .380, M1 Carbine, .357 magnum, .44 magnum, AND .40/10mm. My Dillion SDB is in .38 and Dillion 550B in .45 ACP.
Yes the turret press is slower that the Dillion but a) MUCH cheaper, and B) quite adequate if you shoot only 200 rounds a weekend practice. Three strokes and a round is loaded.
The new 'Classic' Lee 4 hole turret presses are even better than my old one. They have automatic primer feed you just push the primer arm rocker a bit and then continue. Four strokes and a round is loaded (but I still prefer the three hole press.)
So don't sell the Lee short. They are good presses.
Deaf
seeker_two
New member
Is there any way the OP could have his Redhawk "converted" to .44SPL?.....maybe have his barrel restamped?.....
Don't try to fight or control the recoil. You're just going to wear yourself out. Take a firm hold and let the gun rise as much as it wants. A Blackhawk has grips designed to let it roll up in your hand, let it. It makes cocking for the next shot easier too. Soft or checkered grips on a .44 mag are a no no. You need smooth wood especially on a Blackhawk.
Pond James Pond
New member
Converting to .44Spl is an idea as it would be a legislative task, not an engineering one. However, I then loose the rights to get access to Mag materials if I decide to reload.
What is needed is for them to update that ridiculous law so that it matches real life!!
RE grips. I can't afford, nor am I inclined to try and source loads of different grips. I may try and make my own, or see if I can find some locally. I will also try to shoot with a firm grip on the gun, but a looser wrist and see if letting the recoil roll out that way helps.
RE the Lee classic turret press:
That is the model I am considering.
Dillon I've not seen, only Hornady, Lee and RCBS. Kits are available for Lee and RCBS, too.
Thanks for all the comments so far: helpful and gives me hope that I won't have to wave good-bye to the awesome RH!!
What is needed is for them to update that ridiculous law so that it matches real life!!
RE grips. I can't afford, nor am I inclined to try and source loads of different grips. I may try and make my own, or see if I can find some locally. I will also try to shoot with a firm grip on the gun, but a looser wrist and see if letting the recoil roll out that way helps.
RE the Lee classic turret press:
That is the model I am considering.
Dillon I've not seen, only Hornady, Lee and RCBS. Kits are available for Lee and RCBS, too.
Thanks for all the comments so far: helpful and gives me hope that I won't have to wave good-bye to the awesome RH!!
I think the OPs best option is to reload low end .44 magnum (high end .44 Special load data). I load 9.4 grains of Unique with 200 grain Gold Dot bullets. Recoil is fine in my light weight S&W 329PD and mild in my S&W 629 with 6-1/2" barrel.
It sounds as though a Lee Hand Press, a set of .44 dies and a load manual would be recovered quickly considering the price of ammunition he seems to be faced with.
It sounds as though a Lee Hand Press, a set of .44 dies and a load manual would be recovered quickly considering the price of ammunition he seems to be faced with.
I like the .44mag. I can shoot a box full from my Ruger SRH without it being significantly painful. I have the Hogue Tamer grips on it with the sorbothane insert for the backstrap. It is almost too large for me in double action. I intend to reload for it someday. I try to shoot the loads that are around 900 lb/ft of muzzle energy the most, as I don't see a real reason to shoot it with rounds that I can almost duplicate with my .357mag. BUT I own both calibers.
There are ways around your problem. Shooting gloves? New grips? Also, everyone has different tolerance levels. I find the .44mag the most powerful handgun I can shoot 50 rounds from. I find the .357Mag more comfortable for a box or two of ammo [even 600 lb/ft muzzle energy rounds]. Where I live the biggest threats in the outdoors are black bears, cougars and pot-head farmers. A .357mag is the minimum for them, with a .44mag being better. However, I am comfortable with a .357mag for that purpose over the .44mag. I don't live where there are brown bears, grizzlies or kodiaks.
I don't know what your outdoors threat is that caused you to get the .44mag. I generally don't recommend what I'm about to say, but, in your country, it makes more sense to me.
Sell the .44mag.
Either get a .357mag [easier to control: love the GP100!] or turn the money over into more 9mm ammo. What IS the biggest threat in your woods? What caliber is needed there? Can you make do with a 9mm? What about the .357mag?
I hesitate to recommend the reloading due to the difficulty of obtaining components in your country. S&B SP .44mag ammo is already pretty soft shooting for full-power .44mag ammo. It is rated around 743 ft/lbs. If that is too hard and you can't change grips [or shooting gloves don't help], you will need to drop the ammo into the .44special range, or .44mag 'cowboy loads'. .44special loads are in the 350-400 ft/lb of muzzle energy range.
Now, if you are going to be using this for defense and shooting a round that light, I'd recommend re-thinking the whole '.44mag' concept. A .45acp round shoots in the 330-400 ft/lb muzzle energy range, pushing a 230gr bullet down the pipe. Your .45acp gun will hold 8-10 rounds instead of 6 of .44mag rounds downloaded to .44special rounds.
This means a .45acp gun will provide you with 1840-2300 grains of lead at 330-400 ft/lbs with one magazine. Your .44mag will provide you with 1440 grains of lead at 330-400 ft/lbs per cylinder, if they are downloaded to .44special round powers. Now, full .44mag rounds will give you the 1440 grains, but at 740-1240 ft/lbs of energy. You just listed that you had comfort issues with this power factor.
If you are really thinking of downloading the .44mag to a .44special power factor and using it for woods defense in that .44special chambering, the .45acp round gives the potential for more stopping power.
I really like the .44mag, but I'd sell it before I sold every last .45acp pistol I have. I might sell a couple .45acp pistols first, but I'd go without the .44mag before going without a .45acp, as the .45acp fits my needs more often.
Now, the .357mag is around 125-158grains of lead, with muzzle energy factors of from 500 to 640 ft/lbs of muzzle energy. I'd pick 6 rounds of 158 grain .357mag moving with 600 ft/lbs of muzzle energy for woodland creatures ove 8 round of 230gr .45acp moving at 350 ft/lbs.
SO, what is the real purpose for this pistol? Downloading the round because you love the look/feel/form/accuracy of the .44mag are all great reasons to keep it. But, if it is a purpose-purchased weapon that can't meet the purpose, maybe it is time to think about selling it and investing in a handgun that will allow you to meet that purpose.
Again, try shooting gloves. That may solve everything! I don't usually recommend selling a handgun. In your country the ways to make your .44 work for you sound so complicated and expensive that selling it and turning the money over to invest in a gun that WILL meet your needs without significant accomodation sounds like a wiser choice to me.
Ok: Flame suit is now officially on. Let the dissentions begin!
There are ways around your problem. Shooting gloves? New grips? Also, everyone has different tolerance levels. I find the .44mag the most powerful handgun I can shoot 50 rounds from. I find the .357Mag more comfortable for a box or two of ammo [even 600 lb/ft muzzle energy rounds]. Where I live the biggest threats in the outdoors are black bears, cougars and pot-head farmers. A .357mag is the minimum for them, with a .44mag being better. However, I am comfortable with a .357mag for that purpose over the .44mag. I don't live where there are brown bears, grizzlies or kodiaks.
I don't know what your outdoors threat is that caused you to get the .44mag. I generally don't recommend what I'm about to say, but, in your country, it makes more sense to me.
Sell the .44mag.
Either get a .357mag [easier to control: love the GP100!] or turn the money over into more 9mm ammo. What IS the biggest threat in your woods? What caliber is needed there? Can you make do with a 9mm? What about the .357mag?
I hesitate to recommend the reloading due to the difficulty of obtaining components in your country. S&B SP .44mag ammo is already pretty soft shooting for full-power .44mag ammo. It is rated around 743 ft/lbs. If that is too hard and you can't change grips [or shooting gloves don't help], you will need to drop the ammo into the .44special range, or .44mag 'cowboy loads'. .44special loads are in the 350-400 ft/lb of muzzle energy range.
Now, if you are going to be using this for defense and shooting a round that light, I'd recommend re-thinking the whole '.44mag' concept. A .45acp round shoots in the 330-400 ft/lb muzzle energy range, pushing a 230gr bullet down the pipe. Your .45acp gun will hold 8-10 rounds instead of 6 of .44mag rounds downloaded to .44special rounds.
This means a .45acp gun will provide you with 1840-2300 grains of lead at 330-400 ft/lbs with one magazine. Your .44mag will provide you with 1440 grains of lead at 330-400 ft/lbs per cylinder, if they are downloaded to .44special round powers. Now, full .44mag rounds will give you the 1440 grains, but at 740-1240 ft/lbs of energy. You just listed that you had comfort issues with this power factor.
If you are really thinking of downloading the .44mag to a .44special power factor and using it for woods defense in that .44special chambering, the .45acp round gives the potential for more stopping power.
I really like the .44mag, but I'd sell it before I sold every last .45acp pistol I have. I might sell a couple .45acp pistols first, but I'd go without the .44mag before going without a .45acp, as the .45acp fits my needs more often.
Now, the .357mag is around 125-158grains of lead, with muzzle energy factors of from 500 to 640 ft/lbs of muzzle energy. I'd pick 6 rounds of 158 grain .357mag moving with 600 ft/lbs of muzzle energy for woodland creatures ove 8 round of 230gr .45acp moving at 350 ft/lbs.
SO, what is the real purpose for this pistol? Downloading the round because you love the look/feel/form/accuracy of the .44mag are all great reasons to keep it. But, if it is a purpose-purchased weapon that can't meet the purpose, maybe it is time to think about selling it and investing in a handgun that will allow you to meet that purpose.
Again, try shooting gloves. That may solve everything! I don't usually recommend selling a handgun. In your country the ways to make your .44 work for you sound so complicated and expensive that selling it and turning the money over to invest in a gun that WILL meet your needs without significant accomodation sounds like a wiser choice to me.
Ok: Flame suit is now officially on. Let the dissentions begin!