Do you clean your guns before.

Every gun I have bought I cleaned before shooting it except my Ruger LCP, I did not have much time before the range was closed so I went from the dealer, to the range. It ran flawless. I did clean it after the range trip though like I always do and it seemed to be as dirty as any other gun after shooting it.
When I got my Micro Desert Eagle a week or two later, I made sure it was clean first. That one gets DIRTY while shooting it lol probably because of the ports or something. makeing sure the gun is clean is just one more thing to rule out if it does jam the first range trip.
 
I definitely do, for a few reasons. Most of the really good reasons have been stated already, so I won't repeat those, but the one I haven't read yet is that I don't usually buy early enough in the day to get shooting in. This leaves me at home with a new gun. Can't shoot it in the house, right? So the only other things I can do with the gun are clean it, work the action, see how it feels in my hands... show it some love. I expect my guns to go through a lot with me (they don't get treated like glass flowers), so in return I keep them nicely cleaned.
 
Yes. My Ruger SR1911 is loaded with something like grease! I haven't field stripped it yet but will before going to the range.
 
If I'd have known more about the copper anti-sieze that Glock puts on their pistols I would have taken all that crap off.

I didn't know enough about it back then.

Gaston must be high to put this crap on the Glocks.

The companies that make the stuff flat out say that it's not a lubricant. It is something that you put on an assembly that enables it to be taken back apart at some future date - hence the name "anti-sieze". But not the same connotation as a lubricant that keeps moving parts from siezing up.

At best it is NLGI#2 lithium grease with copper dust in it, worse case scenario it's got lime and quartz crystals ground up in it.
 
The companies that make the stuff flat out say that it's not a lubricant.
The two companies I know of off the top of my head that make anti seize clearly call it a lubricant.

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...ts/Permatex_Copper_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_b.htm

Products > Automotive > Lubricants > Specialty Lubricants > Permatex® Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant

A premium quality copper anti-seize and thread lubricant..."​
http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/...anguage=en&BU=industrial&redDotUID=0000000I5E
Lubricants > Fastener Anti-Seize > General Purpose

"Loctite Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant

Loctite® Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, a premium quality copper anti-seize and thread lubricant ..."​
There may be some companies making anti seize with "ground up quartz crystals" in it, and stating it's not a lubricant, but clearly not all of them are.

By the way, for what it's worth, lime (calcium oxide) is a common component of many greases.

More information on anti-seize lubricants.

http://www.thefreelibrary.com/A+New+Look+at+Anti-Seize+Lubricants.-a055462338

"Introduced in the 1940s, anti-seize lubricants have evolved far beyond their original use as high-temperature lubricants. Anti-seize compounds are made for high-temperature applications to facilitate easier removal of threaded fasteners fasteners

In construction, connectors between structural members. Bolted connections are used when it is necessary to fasten two elements tightly together, especially to resist shear and bending, as in column and beam connections. by preventing seizing and galling, but the ability of these lubricants doesn't end there. For example, anti-seize lubricants:

* may be even more important when torquing fasteners down than when backing them off

* are valuable for low-temperature applications, as well as harsh, corrosive environments

* are not just for threaded fasteners; some compounds can improve gasket performance or lubricate a variety of plant equipment

* provide smooth assembly and reduce torque tension scatter, which leads to more uniform bolt tensions.

Know the material

Above 350[degrees]F, conventional petroleum-based lubricants vaporize , leaving fastener threads vulnerable to corrosion and seizing. Anti-seize compounds were developed to solve the problem of fastener seizure in high-temperature equipment. Still on the market today, the earliest anti-seize compounds consisted of copper flakes or copper powder suspended in grease. When the grease disappears, the copper particles remain, protecting the threads and allowing easy disassembly.

More recent formulations follow the same principle but use different materials to suit specific needs. Now, special formulations exist for extremely high temperatures for use with stainless-steel fasteners, soft-metal fasteners, in food production facilities and in nuclear power plants. Fillers in these formulations can include copper, nickel, zinc, aluminum or non-metallic materials such as graphite, calcium fluoride calcium fluoride,molybdenum disulfide, calcium hydroxide, zinc oxide,or calcium oxide."​
 
I do a field strip, wipe down, inspection and lube of any new gun before firing for the first time. All mainly for the inspection after all you can't do a good inspection if it's dirty....even though it's mostly just from test firing.
 
not usually........
If its well oiled I wipe it down and head to the range....

IMO A gun is meant to be shot out of the box ,if you think you need to add your own special lube job to make it funtion u may just be anal:rolleyes:


If its cosmolined I clean it for sure,that stuff is nasty

Someone mentioned an SR1911......I shot mine 300+ rounds out of the box and its worked great....I think I may clean it today for the first time :D

to each his own folks,if it shoots its working if it jams I worry then
 
Shooters in general think all firearms must be 100% out of the box. The average gun companys only put a proof round plus a few regular rounds in each gun.The high end guns get many rounds through them .So when you buy a lower end firearm it pays to clean & lube or don't complain.
 
Absolutely, I inspect, clean, lube, lube the heck out of them.

I also change the oil on a new vehicle between 300 and 500 miles.

I know of others who simply shoot the things as they come out of the box and I know folks who never change oil till the warning light comes on.

They think I am obsessive but I think they are reckless.
 
I personally suspect that a high percentage of people that say their latest gun is a piece of junk didn't take the time to take down, clean, and lube before they went to the range. Expecting every kind of ammo to work well can be a source of problems too, especially when guns are new.

Not saying there aren't lemons getting past the QC people, but the owner also has a part to play.
 
I purchased VersaChem, I know an MSDS doesnt tell you everythin about a product but Versa-Chem Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant seems to have pretty much the same chemical composition as Permatex, (no quartz crystals thankfully), in the TDS they say:

Anti-Seize is put on materials to make them easy to disassemble. It technically IS NOT a lubricant.

http://www.itwconsumer.com/productfiles/tech_200.pdf

The C5-A Loctite from Fel-Pro and Henkle have quartz crystals in it.

I can see how this is no big deal when you're putting a manifold together or screwing a bolt in but I think it's not a good idea for parts that slide against each other repeatedly.

I don't know if Glock uses a copper anti-sieze with quartz in it or not.

I got a weird urge to put it back on my Glocks and I could tell right away my slide cycled easier with plain Walmart GP grease. I used the Versa-Chem.

But since I don't know what Glock is using - I'd have gotten it all off.
 
Depends... I tear down and clean all new guns with the exception of Wilson Combat who SPECIFICALLY STATE "do not disassemble the gun until you have fired 500 rounds through it! I do add oil to the rails and barrel lockup, but that's it. Purchased a new Kimber Ultra Raptor yesterday, I was suprised when I tore it down, how clean and well lubed it was...
 
I give every gun a good cleaning and lube job before I shoot it. This way, not only do I know it's ready to go, I've also given it a good inspection before I shoot it.
 
Absolutely--Some of the vendors are packing their guns in heavy grease which can cause FTF etc. type problems (believe me, I know first hand only after panicking [$500 nowadays is a BIG deal at least for me:mad:] thinking I might have received a proverbial 'lemon.:eek:' After the deep cleaning (first cleaning I did not remove the slide and only really lubed it) and removal of apparent thick 'packing grease,' my second trip to the range was flawless:) and every subsequent trip there after (granted this new gun has only 350 rounds fired thus far).

-Cheers
 
I always do at least a "field strip" and often more on a new gun. I don't know what lube/rust inhibitor they're using and I don't want to know. I'd much rather have a thin layer of my own favorites...
 
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