Destroying an antique revolver

I cut my thumb working with a large tap when it snapped. It broke sharp. One of the damaged tendons or whatever still won't allow full motion. And there's some tingling in it from the nerves. It ain't worth the cash to have it repaired, il give it awhile to see what it does . I've been to two doctors already. As far as the lawsuits are concerned, I would be worried .The system is so messed up.
I got the barrel today, the threads don't match . I have it turned down to size within .003 inches of the other barrels shank diameter. The only reason it's any smaller is because I had to get rid of the old threads. Should still be fine. This gun isn't worth a trip to the machine shop so I will be modifying a 1/2-28 die to thread the barrel and putting a custom plug In the bore to keep that on center. I will have to grind off final thread of it so it won't remove any extra material since the barrel OD is.5175 and not .5000 . It's not the "proper way to do it " but it's
shooting with just primers, so il live with it. Just waiting on the die .Enlarged the sloppy cylinder pin bore to 7/32 and am making a new one to eliminate as much play as I can.
Put a new shoulder on the barrel and changed it's profile. Will post pics tomorrow. For all the purists on revolver barrels I will be doing it by the book except for thread cutting on a die and homemade jig.

the new barrel sticks too far into the frame to allow the cylinder to fit. By a good 3/16. rather than turn it down to length, I will be shaving the cylinder length down for 2 reasons. 1st and foremost I can keep the existing Forcing cone and not have to recut it. 2nd, with the case trimmed, the primer may provide more velocity since there is less case volume. And now, it will be absolutely impossible to put any commercial case in if.
 
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Whew. I have come up with some wild restorations and modifications, but I usually go with changing to a very common round. I'm with Jim Watson. 22lr or I wouldn't bother.
 
38 shell may still fit, havent measured. as previously stated, the .38 rim size is required for the shells not to fall out,
it has no loading gate
 
Update.
barrel die should be into tomorrow. the barrel came from an old colt off ebay.
left an extra 1/2 inch so I can secure it without risking any scratches. the contour is different with a much thicker profile and the shoulder is enlarged so it is flush with the receiver. the barrel will be about 9/16 shorter than the original. a small notch will have to be cut to allow the cylinder axle/pin to go through. will post pics tomorrow if the die comes in.

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Minus the grooves and locking indentation in the cylinder pin, it is about done. it steps down from .250 to .2165 where it runs through the cylinder. with alittle lubrication the cylinder now turns smoothly. besides fitting the barrel and setting the cylinder gap, the revolver is about ready for bluing. you can see the file marks where the dents on the sideplate were removed and the sideplate seam is virtually gone. The cylinder axle/pin will be flush with the front of the barrel and will also serve as a handy cleaning rod.
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Unbelievable. The barrel threads are 27 tpi and not 28. Waiting on another 7 dollar used barrel, have decided to actually make the barrel longer than original, in the mean time, the cylinder pin is done. Once the barrel is done it will be ready to bead blast and blue. Here are the old and new pins
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Finally got the new barrel turned to rough size. Came off an old colt and is 4 inches long now, will thread in the morning

(Picture deleted at request of original poster.)
 
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cool project, i would like to see how it shoots with the trimmed down 38, good luck and keep the progress coming, maybe at the end give us a summary on time and total cost to make an enjoyable shooting piece
 
Thanks, minus my mistake The cost was about 35 and that includes bluing chemicals. With the new barrel, I won't have to shave the cylinder back much so I won't ever have to trim shells, barrel will be on this evening
 
VERY soon,
finally had time to finish cleaning up the parts.
All tool marks have been removed and the parts have been bead blasted and await hot caustic bluing in acetone.
Will be running by Meyers tonight to pick up the bluing chemicals.
its only about twice the price of that cold blue crap.
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Yes, the acetone serves as both a rust preventer and a degreaser. As long as the parts are submerged, they won't rust, when the bluing tank is the right temperature, they are Taken out of the acetone. It does not leave residue behind when it evaporates and the parts can be blued almost directly
 
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