Deciding on a .22LR semi auto ... Walther, Bersa, Ruger

The suppressor ready version of the M&P 22c comes with a thread adapter, but at a premium. All M&P 22c pistols have a threaded barrel. The non suppressor-ready versions have a thread protector instead of the adaptor and don't include the wrench. I requested a wrench from S&W to remove the thread protector and they sent one to me without hassle.
 
S&W's M&P was made by Walther.

FYI.

Walther also makes the Colt licensed 22 1911, HK licensed MP5 (not the GSG552), HK 416, and the HK 22 sub pistols.

What Walther did not make is the Sig 22 Firefly, arguably the worst 22 for reliability.
 
Just to clarify, there are 2 different S&W M&P 22s. A full size made in Germany by Walther/Umarex for S&W and the compact made by S&W in house right here in the USA.

My experience lies solely with the compact version, however, AFAIK, both are pretty good pistols.
 
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Second, the 22/45 (and all the Rugers up until the current generation, I believe) are a bear to take apart and reassemble. There's an aftermarket kit to address that, but it's not cheap. I wasn't happy with a pistol I couldn't easily take apart and reassemble for cleaning or maintenance.
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You should, of course get what makes you happy. For me, the "problem" of the Ruger Mark I's assembly was easily solved. Simply, DON'T TAKE IT APART.

The fact that something can be done does not automatically mean it should be done. There are a great many older firearms designs that were never made to be military class service guns, not made to be stripped and reassembled constantly. People seem to have lost sight of the fact that actual SPORTING arms need not be "military grade" and still serve well for many, many years longer than the owners will live.
 
The Mrs got a Browning 1911 Black Lable 22 at Christmas that’s a great little gun. Downsized to 85% of a full size 1911, with fiber optic sights it’s a very sweet shooter but not an inexpensive one.
 
I also like my USA made M&P 22 Compact and it is very reliable with a wide range of ammo including bulk Federal 525 packs and Remington Golden. Decent plinker accuracy but not as accurate as my Browning Buckmark but I did not expect it to be but still really fun to shoot. Grabagun has 123 reviews to read about it and lots of online reviews. Though it would not be my choice IMO it would be a decent SD/CCW pistol for those adverse to the recoil of center fire pistols and super easy to rack the slide.

https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/gun-review-smith-wesson-mp-22-compact/

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https://grabagun.com/firearms/handguns/semi-automatic-handguns/smith-and-wesson-and-wesson-2.html
 
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I like the Ruger Mark IV. This is a 22/45 Lite upgraded with Volquartsen Accurizing kit , EGW Dovetail sight mount, Vortex Venom sight, Allchin compensator etc.

There are so many accessories for the Ruger. It's my go-to gun for Steel Challenge.
 
As I actually read your initial post, what I understand, is that you maybe would be more interested in a smaller platform .22 semi-auto, rather than the size of a 22/45 Mark IV.

Here's one my wife carries:

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This is the Ruger SR22 with a Crimson Trace green beam laser. This little pistol comes with a couple of grip frames for various "paw" sizes and two magazines with two types of base plates. This pistol shoots Remington Viper ammunition very well.
There is also a newer version with a bit longer barrel, and Ruger does ( did ) offer replacement 'drop-in' threaded barrels for those who choose to shoot suppressed.
 
I've owned a BuckMark Hunter for many years. And, I've plowed many thousands of rounds thru it -- only to have my gunsmith fully break it down and clean it 2 times -- the Browning 22 just keeps ticking. Seems like the OP wishes an entry level 22 semi auto -- point, can't beat a BuckMark imo. Certain models come threaded.

David :)
 
Hey, thanks for all of your help, folks. Lots of good info, and I did take everything into account, and have been burning the midnight oil the last couple of nights looking up different models, reading reviews, watching YT videos, etc ... and yes, as mentioned, I'm looking at the smaller models at this point.

I also got out to a couple of dealers yesterday to check some out, and talked to one guy who has several of the compact models that we mentioned in this thread. Like most of the reviews, he likes them all, and said he couldn't think of anything negative, or a model to "stay away from".

So I've decided on the S&W M&P .22 Compact, and a Thunder Beast .22 Takedown can. I've always been mostly a S&W enthusiast anyway, although my guns are older, and revolvers. I like the ergonomics, feel, weight, and sights on the S&W, and I think this will be a good combo to start with. Later, I'll likely get one of the heavier & longer barreled Victory, Ruger, or Buckmark models, and can see myself at some point getting one of those Phoenix Arms plinkers. Those look pretty cool for the price.

Thanks again. Will update.
 
Zamak IS a zinc alloy! Z (zinc) A (aluminum)
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Yep, it's actually an acronym...

Zinc
Alumininum
Magnesium
And
Kupfer (German for Copper),

Which makes up the composition of the alloy in order of percentages. However, one misconception is that ZAMAK is the same molten scrap metal that the old Ring of Fire companies were using back in the day. It isn't, it's an industry standard alloy used in a wide range of applications which most folks who bash it aren't even aware of is present in everything from the razor they shave with in the morning to the vehicle they drive. The stuff the Ring of Fire companies were using was quite literally scrap metal which was brittle due to impurities in its composition. ZAMAK on the other hand can is actually quite durable, but often requires quite a bit of thickness to it to withstand the pressures of centerfire cartridges, hence why the slides on Hi-Points are so massive. Rimfire firearms can still be made to ordinary thicknesses though because .22LR and even .22WMR just don't have very high peak operating pressure, nor do they generate much recoil force, ergo many firearms manufactures make use of it to produce inexpensive rimfire pistols and rifles.
 
I don't really have to be concerned with the Zamak since I'm getting the S&W, which has an aluminum slide. I wouldn't really be concerned anyway if I'd decide to get a Walther. As mentioned above, there have been no known failures. I'd be more concerned if it were a larger caliber, but with a .22, not so much.

There are different variations of Zamak alloys, but yes, it does contain 4% aluminum, along with zinc, magnesium, and copper.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zamak


JT
 
It really is rather remarkable just how much of a difference adding a small percentage of other metals to an alloy can make.

Like the Scandium Alloy that Smith & Wesson uses for their revolver frames, it's actually mostly Aluminum, with something like 3%-5% Scandium in the mix, but that little percentage makes it substantially stronger.
 
I have the Ruger 22/45 and it makes a great host gun and eats everything. Ialso see the new guns are even easy to take down and clean. I am currently looking at the new Keltec P17 to add as a host gun.

When I worked part time at a gun store a few years ago we sold a lot of the Ruger SR22 and the S&W M&P 22 guns so those are worth a look also.
 
It's official. I ordered the S&W M&P .22 Compact and the TBAC .22 Takedown. Now the wait begins. Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.
 
Just my opinions - the suppressor adapter has to be removed before you can remove the slide - I recommend soaking the suppressor adapter overnight in liquid wrench before trying to remove it. As I said I broke the included take down wrench my first attempt at removing the nut. Had to place my S&W M&P 22 compact in a vise for round two. Remember this - right tighten left loosen if you get to this point. I felt like that adapter was red thread locked. I’m not familiar with your suppressor. If it screws apart like mine I also recommend putting anti-seize on the screw threads before firing as 22 or runs dirty and the crud will make suppressor disassemblly difficult if you don’t use anti-seize.
 
Thanks Adventurer2, I did take that into account, and looked up some info on it. Here's how I handled it.

I ordered the "non suppressor ready" model, for less $$. Then I ordered a better adapter from Hughes Precision for $20.

I had found a YT vid that talks about the lack of an undercut on the last thread on the factory adapter, and how it can cause some suppressors to not seat properly. The hughes does have the undercut, and a nice fluted thread protector.

I'll post that video a little later if I can find it again.
 
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