TunnelRat said:
Right, but I've heard your following explanation a number of times. However you seem to have missed my point. My comment was merely that a number of folks like decockers because they are going to use the pistols as DA/SA. If that's the case then there is no downside to getting a decocker model. I think it has less to do with how "safe" or competent the shooter is, merely how he/she intends to use the pistol. If you want cocked and locked then get a model with a safety.
And you're responding as though I disagreed with you. I didn't. My first words were: "There's really no way to answer that question -- except to get a decocker model."
My point, however, which I think YOU MISSED is that
there is a real-world DOWNSIDE to using DA/SA guns that can't be started from C&L -- and decockers don't make that downside go away. Most folks with decocker guns don't share my concern. It's obviously not a concern for you.
I think the FIRST SHOT is far more important in a threatening/critical situation than most want to acknowledge. If it's not on target it might as well be a warning shot -- and warning shots are wasted shots. If I ever find mysef in that situation, I want that first shot to be a better first shot than
I (and, I think, many people) can handle with guns that start from DA and move to SA. That's the reason for
my reluctance to use decocker guns or to use DA/SA guns that can't be carried cocked & locked.
If I'm ever in a potentially lethal situation with a decocker-equipped gun, and there's ANY WAY I CAN DO IT (without doing something stupid -- if I have the presence of mind to know that it's stupid!!), that gun will be thumb-cocked for the first shot. (If the bad guy is so close that I don't have time or space to do that, it probably doesn't matter anyway -- as it may be an almost contact-shot then. That said, I now have TWO guns with decockers (a Sphinx SDP and a SIG P228), and that's more than I've ever had before.
As much as I like CZs and BHPs and some 1911s, I really think hammer-fired guns are going to eventually go away -- as will most steel frames. A surprising number of both hammer-fired and striker-fired guns have been designed such that the slide must move (partially loading the hammer or striker spring) before the trigger can work. Why not just go the striker route? I found some of the Third Generations S&W's a real puzzle in that same way; ditto some of the newest Kel-Tecs (including my PF9).
If I ever start back to shooting competitively again -- I've not done it for several years -- I'll probably
go the striker-fired route, where this discussion becomes a non-issue. (I have two great M&P Pros that I'd love to and try, and I did well with a Glock 34 some years back. I have a 35, now -- all of these guns have been tuned by their prior owner, a competitor who does gunsmithing -- so their nice, crisp, reliable, and safe.
If I eventually find a small striker-fired gun I like (it will have to be a bit larger than the Ruger LC9s,) I might even start
carrying one, too.