Concealed draw time

For someone who carries concealed, I think the draw from concealment is the most important thing to practice. Most ranges won't allow fast draw, so I practice in my garage with plastic training bullets.

I can get the first shot on target in about 1.5 seconds. I'm working to get that down.
 
Depends a lot on what gun. My Dan Wesson 357 and my 1911A1 from an open holster just a hair under 1 second but nowhere near that with any other gun and closer to 3+ seconds from concealed or small of the back draw. I practice with 25 yard targets and if I really want to get my first shot on target then don't expect anything under 3 seconds. I will never win a fast draw match, the only number I am really concerned with is who gets the first good shot. I know a man who can get 5 out of his 6 shots off before I get my first shot off, but my target is farther away than 9' and my target always has holes in it. Point, mine.
 
lot of good times on here. 7m, ipsc target, all hits in the A zone. i start holding a rifle but hands up works fine too. i'm anywhere from 1.2-1.5s
 
IDPA stage

This is similar, but not quite on track w/ the OP.

At our recent IDPA match, we ran a stage where the shooter pivoted 180 degrees (back to targets, pivot and shoot) and engaged 2 targets with 3 rds each: 2 torso, 2 torso, 1 head, 1 head. Distance was about 3 yds. Shot from concealment.

Best 3 times were 3.11, 3.16, 3.17. All zero down. The 3.11 shooter fired an extra round, otherwise he'd have gone well under 3.0. First rounds were being fired at about 1.05, I think. Two Glock 9's and a Browning HP .40.

Additionally, the first stage for the agency handgun qual is 3rds in 2 secs, at 3 yds, from a duty rig. Two evolutions, for 6 rds.
 
I have to warm up a couple of times before I can draw from concealed and hit at 3 yds. in 1.5 seconds. Can't do it on demand. Some draw times are about 1.3, most are over 1.5.

Most of my practice includes moving laterally as I draw. To beat the timer I'd stand still and start with hand on lower vest and 1.3 is a good time for an 'ol geezer like me.

To beat Bubba, which is more important, I practice moving laterally and that slows things down slightly, though completing a short step before the draw is complete speeds things up a little. Gabe Suarez has that down real good.
 
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I'm pleased that someone admits that they do better when they're "warmed up" and aren't so good from a cold start, so to say. I'm no different and would also admit that often as not I'm too "blown" to do much of anything at all. If you had to shoot a rifle match at the end of a half-mile run, it might possibly affect your performance. In my case, I find my physical abilities halfway through a ten mile hike in the hills aren't quite as good as when I started out, especially in the sort of weather we've been having.
 
absolutely. i spend about 30 dry firing and practicing draw before i'm getting smooth. been going to the range a lot recently so the times been cut down but it's a very perishable skill. moving and drawing is great also. adds some more muscle memory that is very useful
 
IPSIC is certainly gaming. IDPA has for the most part become gaming. I thought this conversation was about a real world situation.

If someone has the drop on you... you've lost the draw. He's got you. I'm not suggesting that the fight is in any way over... But a quick draw isnt the answer.

If someone has the drop on you. You've failed at situational awareness, you've lost the draw. I'm not suggesting that your helpless... But you are in deep doo-doo. What can one do in such a situation? Suggestions?

Glenn Dee
 
When I practice drawing and shooting, I focus more on technique as opposed to speed. I try to make sure that I can carry out each individual action correctly, without any snags or hangups. I don't time myself, but I reckon three to four seconds is about right. The way I figure, slow and smooth is better than fast and reckless.

While a fast draw may come in handy someday, I feel that the extra time to ensure that the gun slides smoothly out, the hand gets a solid grip, and those first few rounds make into the target, make it a better proposition than a fast draw.

But, as with everything, do what makes you feel best.
 
I've never been timed either but I do know that trying to draw from an inside-waistband holster from under a pullover square bottom workshirt worn tail out is not only slow, it's difficult. At least it's not impossible. Speed picks up a little from beneath a canvas vest.

Never having been in a remotely similiar situation, I don't know if I'd have to presence of mind to do anything. I say that because I think it'd be a good idea to start moving. So realistically, you might need to do a draw while you are on the move. But that comment isn't based on any experience.

Although the question was about a fast draw from concealment, that doesn't necessarily imply that you would only need to draw on a human target, judging from all the bear threads here.
 
it's why you practice. once you get it stuck in your brain, under stress, that's how you'll perform. granted, i'm in an indoor which usually i'm not. we usually practice kneeling, moving to cover, and something we recently started doing was standing next to someone and instead of having a timer to start you, the other person just shoves you to the ground, then you draw and fire so it works on a little more or a jerk reaction.
 
This and the high incidence of mutual suicide in FOF are the two main reasons I'm somewhat skeptical of the applicability of all lessons learned from FOF to the real world.
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With Modern Technique stand-and-deliver shooting, yes, mutual suicide is the outcome of most FoF encounters.

The training I have has taught us to move off the line of fire (and not just the one or two side-steps, either) while drawing and then returning fire, escaping through a door, or whatever it takes to avoid being shot.

FoF that incorporates moving and shooting (as seen on many dash-cam/youtube videos) is very close to what happens.

FWIW, I usually have already moved two or three steps before I even have my gun out and start shooting (no, I don't do this at public ranges :p).

And I find appendix carry to be overall faster than 3-5:00 positions.
 
Not sure about time for one shot, but we regularly work on presenting the weapon and unloading the mag on multiple, color-coded targets in 8.5 - 13 seconds. This stresses accuracy, proper acquisition and timing.

It will cure what ails ya.:)
 
Open draw? 1.5-2.0 seconds. That is when Im leveled and deploying the 1st shot. Concealed sometimes can be a pain thats why I continually practice. CCW--- 2.0-4.0 seconds-- That needs to come down a bit. I agree with the reactionary curve. In a SD situation your nervous enough, you draw time is probably going to go down by a couple of secs. Get to cover or just start moving like the other poster said. If you start moving really rapidly maybe you can get him a little distracted. If he hits you as a moving target there is a greater chance it will be in a less vital area. If you go down and are hit, he comes at you keep firing at him. There may be something seriously wrong with my stomach etc., but I'll worry about that later;). I wont stop until Im incapacitated.
 
I've never timed myself from concealment but I shot my first IDPA match a couple of weeks ago and one stage was draw from a "surrender" position with our hands in the air like we were being held up and fire 2 shots at each of three targets from about 2yds. I was shooting a S&W 1911 9mm Pro and a Springfield Loaded .45 and the Safariland 6377 ALS holster I wear for work. I managed 3.6secs with the .45 (fumbled the safety) and 2.78secs with the 9mm, no penalty points either time. The 2.78secs was the fastest time on that stage, I was pretty happy about that.
 
If someone has the drop on you. You've failed at situational awareness, you've lost the draw. I'm not suggesting that your helpless... But you are in deep doo-doo. What can one do in such a situation? Suggestions?

Glenn Dee
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The training I have has taught us to move off the line of fire (and not just the one or two side-steps, either) while drawing and then returning fire, escaping through a door, or whatever it takes to avoid being shot.
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I agree with the idea of movement, a large step to the side forces the "Bad Guy" to adjust his aim before he can shoot you. It takes time for him to do so, which give you time to act.

I've never had the chance to test the idea in formal force on force training, but it has worked effectively in both paintball and airsoft when I was younger.

More recently it worked to amazing effect in a situation involving my 10 year old cousin, a 20 round drum fed nerf pump action, and a single shot nerf pistol.

Multiple side steps were able to keep him from making a shot until I had a chance to take mine. Though I doubt you can draw any meaningful conclusions from that senario (except that my cousin doesn't like fair fights)

In any case, if someone has the drop on you, you're pretty much screwed. Moving off the line may give you enough time to make up the difference.
 
Yep. If someone gets the drop your going to mostly likely get hit. Where that is depends on what you do. Even if you just started to juke a big side to side as you run it could throw them off. When I don't have time/money for real steel. My brother and I practice with airsoft gas guns. I got a 1911 close enough to my S&W1911.
 
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