Century Arms FN/FAL L1A1 ?

I had one of these racy Klinton Sporters for a while.

I tweaked with it and it was fun, but it went in trade for the AR10.

ri657.jpg

18701_1827_1_lg.jpg


I hope your new acquisition provides you with much fun~!


Top Pic:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...age=1&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0&tx=116&ty=41

Bottom Pic:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...ge=1&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0&tx=109&ty=31

:eek:
 
Last edited:
I would make sure it has a serial number and makers mark, that do not look like garage work. Don't go alone, and leave your destination address with a family member. Mail your life insurance premium, etc.
At that price it may be stolen or you could be getting set-up.
Click to expand...

Nothing like paranoia.

Times are tough; Guns are getting sold by people that need money. And CIA FAL sporters, as pointed out in another post, aren't that great.
 
Thanks for all the helpful info guys, it is much appreciated. BTW, could someone point me to a sight where i could find parts ? The top cover is a little banged up on one side and i would like a new one, or a used one in better condition. also how would i go about mounting a bi pod on this rifle. Thanks again.
 
There's a site called The FAL Files Forums that has all you'll ever want or need to know. Just Google it. A good place for parts is GunThings.com, run by a guy called Brad...and re the other question, genuine Belgian guns are more expensive than others for the usual firearms market reason, which is scarcity. Fabrique Nationale in Herstal, Belgium, just never made many guns for sale on the civilian market, so the relatively few guns imported into the US in the '70s and '80s get more desirable with every passing year. For that same reason, the most expensive FAL you can buy in the US today isn't a Belgian gun but a genuine all-original Australian L1A1 -- not Aussie parts assembled onto a new upper receiver by Century or whoever, but a whole gun, receiver and all, manufactured at the Lithgow arsenal....and finally, yes, in my experience the para FALs are usually as accurate as the full-length guns. The barrel is a little shorter, but the sight radius is the same.
 
Last edited:
also how would i go about mounting a bi pod on this rifle.
Click to expand...

Bipods are specific for FALs. You want an FAL Bipod; they clamp on to a groove cut into the barrel, fold into the hand guard grooves.

http://www.dsarms.com/FAL-Quick-Detach-Lite-Bipod-Factory-New---624QD/productinfo/624QD/

http://www.dsarms.com/SA58-FAL-18-PARA-Complete-Front-End-308-Cal---00118SCM/productinfo/00118SCM/

I do not know if inch pattern guns include this. Metric guns do.

After market bipods (not authentic) also exist.
 
The pic in the original post shows that neither the barrel nor the hand guards will accept the FN style bipod. That design fits around a special ring machined on the outside of the barrel, just in front of the gas block.

it has the widows peak
Click to expand...

What does that mean? I haven't heard that term before.

As for replacing the dust cover, it's easy and cheap. I bought one at a gunshow for $5 and it was new-unused. It was made by H&K :p

I guess there were lots of spare dust covers made back when West Germany used the FAL, which it did prior to adopting the H&K G3.

Bart Noir
 
Dust covers = Scope mount

If you are going to replace the dust cover, you might as well get one that is a scope mount.

http://www.dsarms.com/SA58-FAL-Extr...Modified-for-ACOGS-TA620A/productinfo/TA620A/

Ask DSA about inch vs metric for this.

Correct that the photo shows the absence of the bipod cut and handguard grooves. Apparently inchers dont have this. I would replace the handguard and look for a bipod that will fit your barrel and fold into the grooves.
 
"Widows Peak" describes the type of feed ramp, You either have a Widows Peak, or a Unibrow. Marco, the dust cover on the rifle now has a scope mount but it has been hit by a few shells and is scuffed up. So yes, i would like the new dust cover to have a mount as well. ......BTW, if i change the Handgaurds i would like to have a quad rail, do they make one for this rifle ?
 
Last edited:
Thats a nice rail, seems a little high on price. I guess i will shop around to see if i can find a cheaper one. Thanks for the link Marco.
 
DSA is high-end

D$A is high-end. I have 2 STG-58 sets, plus 2 Imbel receivers. I need $$$ before I can have them assembled the way I want, as DSA paratroopers.

I would like to see a photo of your feed ramp. I will post one of my SAR-48's (Springfield Armory built Match Congo Rifle on Imbel).
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0078.JPG
    IMG_0078.JPG
    103.1 KB · Views: 41
  • IMG_0071.JPG
    IMG_0071.JPG
    157.6 KB · Views: 37
  • IMG_0072.jpg
    IMG_0072.jpg
    241.2 KB · Views: 39
Last edited:
I have something like this cheapie on my FAL (came with the rifle).

http://www.amazon.com/UTG-4th-Tacti...e=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1308004010&sr=8-3

Unlike the DSA, this one will NOT hold zero if you unscrew it and take it off (I believe the reason why the DSA is so expensive and costs so much is because they overbuilt it in an attempt to get RTZ--I could be wrong. Read something to that effect a long time ago while researching my FAL).

However, you can still effectively clean your FAL without removing the dust cover (kind of like an AR15). Also if you do decide to go the Cheapie UTG route, make sure you DO NOT DROP THE HAMMER ON A CLOSED AND BOLTLESS FAL. This will lock up the receiver, and prevent you from shotgunning it. You will probably have to unscrew the front takedown pin and open it up that way. It's just a pain in the ass to unscrew the front take down pin.

Ask me how I know. :)
 
GreenPhantom, re your dust cover being "scuffed up" from being hit by a few shells, I think you'll find that your new dust cover might also look that way after a little shooting. FALs have a way of bouncing cases off the receiver as they eject, creating what we call "brass kisses". Nothing you can do about it but relax and admire them.
 
Brass kisses are the result of the front face of the ejector not being in contact with the correct part of the case rear when it is extracted. This spins the brass excessively so the case mouth contacts the dust cover. It is not inevitable & can be fixed fairly simply, you just need to work on the ejector a little.

An easier temporary alternative is magnetic plastic from a refrigerator magnet on steel covers or Velcro on alloy one. Just put a patch of the appropriate material where the marks appear until you get the ejector tuned properly.
 
What do you mean by "Work on the ejector" ? Take it out and file it ? It does seem to protrude out at the top more than it does the bottom.
 
DO NOT DROP THE HAMMER ON A CLOSED AND BOLTLESS FAL
Click to expand...

I think I have been successful in using a piece of dowel rod to reach into the ejection port, and push back the hammer until it cocks.

But I don't sound all that confident, do I?. Maybe that was something else. I have screwed up on a lot of gun designs, over the years.

Hey! I make millions! I'll build a special tool just to do this, and charge $29.99 for it. Brownell's, here I come.

Bart Noir
Who hears the ka-ching sounds even now.
 
$400 is a great price. Jump on it.
I have a Century L1A1 that i got for $500 with the butt hole stock, origional stocks, 5 magazines, and a bayonet for $500 4 years ago.My reed ramp is the mono brow..not the bad double chin look. This can be fixed.
It was built on a Imbel reciever which is the best way to go. My L1A1 is a british inch pattern. The reciever is metric and it does take inch mags.
A heavy gun.
 
Last edited:
What is needed is careful adjustment of the front face of the ejector.
The face's contact point with the rear of the case is finicky & precise so you need to mark the face, see where it contacts the brass & adjust the point of contact to make a desired change.

First you need to find what part of the case is hitting where, this determines what material needs removing. Re-working the face is done so that the brass ejection angle is raised (to stop striking receiver), or lowered (to stop striking dust cover) by making a vertical adjustment. The higher the brass is struck the lower the brass will travel.
Then you change the left/right shape to make the brass spin less (to stop the case mouth striking) or more (hardly ever needed) to increase spin speed. the spin adjustment is tricky you're only working with 1/8" or so in total, so do the less tricky vertical first.
Much more detailed instructions & pictures here:
http://community-1.webtv.net/ggiilliiee/FALRIFLEEJECTOR/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top