Case stuck in chamber after hd separation

In the shop I used a tap; a purpose-made shell extractor is best, of course, but they are caliber specific and a shop would need a half dozen or more.

There is a remote chance of cutting through the case into the chamber wall, but you are using only the fingers to turn the tap, not a wrench, and I never had any problem.

I have also used a brass brush in a cleaning rod (regular cleaning brush) inserted into the broken shell from the rear, then pulled back out with the bristles grabbing the shell. (A .45 pistol brush works for most .308 size cases.)

Jim
 
Just get the extractor & keep it in your range bag. Hopefully you'll never have to use it, I used it on other 308's when it happened to them, the next thing they say after thank you is I got to get one of those. How many reloads on your brass. What is the measurement of your fired case before you bumped it back .003 Sometimes you can see a shiny ring foward of the head, a good indication of stretching.
 
.003 is excessive shoulder bump- about double what's recommended (.0015) is sufficient unless you're getting too much "spring-back" and difficulty chambering. No reason to oversize, this is contributing to the brass flow.

Light resistance closing the bolt is a good thing. The closest to zero you can get headspace, and least amount of shoulder bump is the goal. Both minimize brass flow and maximize life. When done correctly, FL sizing doesn't compromise case life. My brass is retired due to split necks, never had to because of thinned case heads.

When you said you didn't see or feel any signs of the case head thinning excessively- did you use a sharpened paper clip (or similar)?
 
I've yet to see sizing not vary by at least +\- .001 so .0015 sounds pretty idealistic. I use the rcbs case master to check case hd separation. It has a paper clip type of adapter on it which is very sharp.

For bolt guns (which this is) I don't fl size I use a Lee collet die and Redding body die. With this combo I don't generally get neck splits. I don't think it works the brass as much.
 
1 stmar
What is causing the bolt from closing, the stem should go through the case neck & catch the edge of the case mouth. Which extractor did you get , from what company. I got mine from Brownells for a 308 , removed a broken case from a friends rifle just by feeding it in with the bolt & out it came.
 
Whoa... try this.

Get a brass bush that fits tight in the chamber. Use the cleaning rod to push it in tight. See if you can turn the stuck case via the cleaning rod and free it.

Deaf
 
Cw308 I didn't see a 3006 extractor at brownells but did find one from utg (leapers). The sleeve doesn't seem to go through the case mouth and catch.

I think I am going to try the 45 cal brush technique.
 
Try hack saw the head off a fired case just to see what's going on with the extractor. I'm going to look up your extractor, shouldn't be such a problem for you. Your chamber should be fine, don't be picking at the case.
 
Your extractor is similar to mine from Brownells it should snap over the case mouth that's the only way it will work
 
I can try cutting a case. I don't think the sleeve is going through the case mouth far enough, so when I pull back on the rim it doesn't catch the bulb on the end. Can get my bolt to close completely.
 
I've never seen one that couldn't be removed with the cleaning brush technique. For really stubborn ones I've used a 410 brush successfully. Put the brush on a pistol cleaning rod and tap it into the chamber, and you can tap on the handle of the rod to back it out. You'll ruin the brush, but they are pretty stiff and the bristles will really grab hold in there when it's so tight and you have those tough bristles pointing backwards in the chamber.
 
Cerrosafe is cheap (and it's reusable) and simple per the video link provided. If it can't be pushed out with a brush, just order 1/2 lb from Brownell's and go that route.
 
I've removed several stuck cases from Remington 742s, when the owner failed to clean the rifle after shooting and storing it over the winter.

Firing drys the chamber/bore and makes them vulnerable to rusting, so it's very important to clean them soon after firing, especially in moist climates.

Also, excessive case resizing thins the cases where the web meets the outside case wall. That more often is found when resizing for semi-autos, because chambering and extracting rounds are more of a problem and people tend to clean bores from the muzzle and the chamber isn't often cleaned/protected that way.

A chamber brush/patch holder is supplied with new Rem 742s, 7400s and perhaps pumps and it's a good idea to use them.
 
1stmar
Give Brownells a call before doing anything else, You don't want two things stuck in your chamber. I once had a brush brush stuck, I said curse words know one ever heard of. Hang in there. Maybe the extractor is bad. It's designed to do only one thing an its not. A brush isn't made to extract a case. Once its out , getting back to cleaning & sizing. The Lee collet die & a body die is a good setup. I've tried neck sizing ,full sizing , partial sizing , bushing dies , went back to the standard RSBS F/L sizing die, found it the most accurate, easiest with the lease runout. Also changed to wet tumbling after 30+ years. Brass comes out like new inside & out. Back to your chamber. How often do you clean your rifle. How many rounds were fired when the case head ripped off. Again give Brownells a call and speak to a tech.

Chris
 
.003 is excessive shoulder bump- about double what's recommended (.0015) is sufficient unless you're getting too much "spring-back" and difficulty chambering. No reason to oversize, this is contributing to the brass flow.

Light resistance closing the bolt is a good thing. The closest to zero you can get headspace, and least amount of shoulder bump is the goal. Both minimize brass flow and maximize life. When done correctly, FL sizing doesn't compromise case life. My brass is retired due to split necks, never had to because of thinned case heads.
Click to expand...

This goes off topic a bit, but I totally disagree with the first part and am marginal with the 2nd.

First, due to shell variations, its impossible to achieve .0015 set back.

.003 is a good target and shoot for that as maximum, some will come in at .002 or a bit under.

The second part is a bench rest shooters technique and unless you are very proficient and can shoot 1s and 2s, then its not going to help and you will get that round that can't be closed at all on.
 
I have a brass 1/4 inch rod I keep for knocking things out of the barrel.

It might be possible to get that down the barrel and catch the front lip of the case and knock it out. It won't take much.

As noted a chamber brush might be enough to grab it.

You can always knock anything stuck back out.
 
Calling brownells is a good recommendation however I didn't get the extractor from them. Not sure they will help. I clean my rifle virtually every time I shoot unless I know I am going back out the following week. I never want crud to sit in the barrel for anything too long. I may call utg who makes the extractor. This is my most consistent and accurate rifle it regularly shoots under .5" I don't want to do anything that may risk the chamber of rifling.
 
This goes off topic a bit, but I totally disagree with the first part and am marginal with the 2nd.

First, due to shell variations, its impossible to achieve .0015 set back.
Click to expand...

Guess we will agree, to disagree. I did include an "unless" qualifier.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/10/tech-tip-how-to-set-your-dies-for-correct-shoulder-bump/

I set headspace at one thou over "go" for a rifle to be used with commercial ammo.

I will go less if asked to do so by a customer that handloads. Setting headspace, freebore, and other parameters have nothing to do with how accurate a shooter is...It is a function of the quality of their reloading process. Use Lapua much? I'll defy you to find much "variation", there.

I've linked a well-respected online resource backing up my comments. Please do the same.
 
1stmar
I'm glad you followed up with UTG. I think there's something wrong with their extractor. Had to ask about how often you cleaned your rifle. There are some I shoot with never clean their rifle until accuracy drops off . If you have some Kroil oil , run a patch with it in your chamber until you get the right extractor. Keep us informed

Chris
 
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