you should get one which is fire resisted.
Not only you can keep you gun(s) safe in there, but other values and papers.
This is what gun safe manufacturers want you to believe, but it's not true. Many gun safes may be ok for smaller amounts of valuables, and basic fire protection. Gun safes are not built to be as fire resistant or as secure as other safes designed specifically for those purposes.
There are some safes (gun safes included) which are built better than others.
Count the number of slide bolts around the door... more is better.
In some cases yes, and in some cases no. The weak link with any gun safe is the steel thickness. The thicker the better. Once you get to a decent level of plate (AMSEC BF series uses 1/2" plate), then the top and bottom bolts aren't as critical.
The additional bolts do come in handy on safes using thin steel. Many of the gun safes on the market are using 12 ga doors. Others use 10 gauge. Both are too thin and easy to pry apart.
Thicker door is better too.
Thicker steel in the door. Many of these safe doors are folded over to look thicker, but still don't use any substantial steel.
Most gunsafes are really fire-safes with very secure locking mechanisms
Most gun safes would not pass muster as a fire safe, and really aren't that secure. Many gun safe are just one step above a file cabinet.
So check on the temperature/time ratio... how long at what temp...
the longer and higher the better
If you want to take the word of the manufacturer. Each company tends to test their safes differently as there is no standardized fire testing for gun safes. One company's 60 minute safe may be built just like another company's 90 minute safe. Compare the construction more than the tag. 10gauge steel and two layers of fireboard should protect the same regardless of who makes the safe.
Electronic combination pads are the most convenient but add to the expense
And are less reliable over time. Mechanical locks tend to last forever, electronic locks are prone to failure. If you want speed, go electronic. If you want reliable, go mechanical.
If they tell you it's a 20 gun safe... think bull**** ...and figure on 10 maximum
100% correct. Each safe owner is going to have different weapons which require their own amount of space. If you add larger guns or optics, then it will reduce your space even more.
The taller ones are better because you will want two or more full shelves... up at your chest level or higher.
Some of the tall safes (72") are hard to get into homes. Keep that in mind before buying the safe, and run it by the person moving it first.
Carpet kits are very nice but also add to the expense
Here's a whole list of things that add to the cost, and don't mean a thing when it comes to gun safes:
Anything that's designed to thwart a drill: Diamond hard plate, angle in the frame, etc. Burglars don't use drills...locksmiths do.
Anymore than one relocker: If your relocker goes off, it's because somebody beat the lock on the safe. If they're that stupid, they won't be smart enough to defeat a relocking system.
Antipunch bolt systems: Again....burglars don't punch bolts on gun safes.
Bigger is worth the difference in cash
Some people prefer one larger safe.....I suggest multiple smaller safes. Keeping your eggs in seperate baskets keeps them more secure. It takes the same amount of time to break into these safes regardless of size. Multiple safes will increase that time per safe.
It is a once in three generations purchase...
and a piece of furniture
You shouldn't buy a safe because of how it looks, you should buy it because of what it can do. Many gun safe companies are more worried about look than function. There are real safes out there that look good too...and offer much better protection than a typical gun safe.
