Browning Hi Power

J

joe-lumber

New member
I took a Browning Hi Power in to a gunsmith and he said it had too much lubrication on the rails. He said it only required a drop of oil on each side of the slide. I use a grease injection tube and put about 2-2 1/2" line on each side. Any ideas if he is telling me the truth?
 
Mostly true !!! ..... JMHO

Any ideas if he is telling me the truth?
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More truth than not. Some folks would not use any grease at all. What I don't know, is what harm over-lubing the rails cause. Perhaps attacking too much dirt? ..... :confused:


Be Safe !!
 
I just put a drop on each rail and then rack a couple of times. To much oil is counterproductive and will just have you cleaning longer.
 
Yeah, about the same as 1911s, just a drop on the ends of the rails.
The usual reason for using more than that is with guns that have different metals on the slide and frame to avoid the possibility of galling.
Like a steel slide on an aluminum frame.
Or on some stainless guns.
And even then, too much is about as bad as too little.
Chemists will tell you that a layer of lube only one molecule thick will usually do.
 
With a 2 1/2 inch line of grease... depending on how thick that bead is I suspect most of it is being squished out back into the gun as pistols are made to have a decently tight fit between frame and slide. I use grease and just get a little on my finger and smudge it on the rails and lockup points of the barrel. Almost as if I was using oil. I just feel it sticks around better and dries up slower but it probably makes no difference in comparison.
 
Generally speaking, too much is counter productive in that it will hold grit or other abrasive material. Making sure all bearing surfaces are coated just enough to provide a thin flim seems to work best for me and my (don't own a HiPower though) brood of all steel, stainless mix breeds and plastic fantastics.
 
Excess will run out, or be pumped out by the slide's movement.
If the grease is not migrating out and getting on your clothes, on the ammo, on your glasses, etc., I'd say it's not too much.
I don't know how you can get away with one drop on each side, since there are as many as five surfaces in contact on each side?
I re-lube with four drops of oil, two per side, one on the "outer" rail, and one on the "inner" rail, before each range session.
 
To much "lube" of any kind is not a good idea. The old saw is, "if it slides use grease, if it rotates use oil" still makes good sense.
 
I don't see anything wrong with 2 1/2" long grease injected lines on the rails, unless you're carrying in sandy environments. I grease my Hi-Power and 1911's the same way. Wilson Combat recommends the same process. I just rack the slide a few times and wipe-off any excess grease with a cloth rag.

In sandy environments...I would use a light coat of oil on the lockup points and rails.
 
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With the wrong kind of grease and a cold spell, the gun could stop working, not a good idea. I am not sure one drop of oil is enough, but 3 on each rail should be plenty. And don't forget a couple of drops in front of the hammer, in the disconnector area, and a drop in the MSH. (For a 1911 type - the exact places for other guns vary.)

Jim
 
I have a Browning High Power.
If I use grease, and I have used Mobile 1 Synthetic (the red stuff), I put the grease into a syringe and touch the slide in two or three places (like making a tiny Hershy's Kiss of grease), put the slide on and rack it some, take the slide off and removing any that bunched up anywhere. When I am done, the layer of grease is very very very thin.

Most often I just use some oil.
 
I agree with those that think you are over lubing. However, you didn't say why you took the gun to the smith to begin with so that may be a factor.
 
I've mostly switched to a light application of FP10 oil on my guns. If it's good enough for my AMP, then it's good enough for the rest. I am a little more generous when I lube the AutoMag, though.
 
Browning Hi Power at the Gunsmith

I posted the question on maybe this blog or another, I don't remember which, but this BHP had a lanyard ring. I debated having it taken off so I could attach a Hogue 9000 finger groove grip instead of the hard plastic grips it had. I got answers of leave it on and take it off and it's my gun and do whatever I want.
Well I decided to take the gun to a good smith to have it taken off. He drilled it off with a milling machine he said and applied the Hogue grips for me. Now it feels great and I can't wait to take it to the range. So that is why I took it to a smith. He suggested doing some work to smooth the trigger pull because it is somewhat gritty since it has been parkerized. The BHP shoots great and almost no recoil like those more modern plastic ones and it feels great in the hand.
 
If you use BHP trigger and gritty in the same sentence then I have to ask have you had the magazine safety disconnect removed? That is the classic term everyone uses to describe the trigger of one that still has it installed. Do you know or did you discuss it with your smith? It's not that hard to do yourself, check Youtube.
 
I use a Q-tip that I dip into grease and then THINLY spread it along the rails to get good, even coverage. I want to be able to see the grease is there, but I don't want to see a thick build up.
 
If you use BHP trigger and gritty in the same sentence then I have to ask have you had the magazine safety disconnect removed? That is the classic term everyone uses to describe the trigger of one that still has it installed. Do you know or did you discuss it with your smith? It's not that hard to do yourself, check Youtube.
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The magazine safety on the BHP slides against the front of the magazine as the trigger is plulled...that friction is what produces the infamous "gritty" feel to the trigger. If one wishes to keep their BHP original but cannot abide the grittiness, one can touch a Que-tip with a minute amount of grease to the place on the magazine where the magazine safety rubs...there will be a mark indicating the place on blued magazines. The grittiness will be gone...temporarily and will have to be re-applied during extended range sessions. But, your BHP will still be in the original condition to maintain re-sale value.
 
Grease on the trigger pad is next to useless, and replacing the disconnect for sale is very, very easy. If you want a better HP trigger pull, remove the disconnector and fire 200-300 rounds. Trigger will smooth-out nicely.
 
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