Brass framed cap&baller revolvers

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Well for the most part we're both on the same page. When you believe in something as strongly as we do it's to be expected. At least that's what I tell myself.:D
 
Sorry Hawg I should have specified "tiny" as being between.006 and point 0012. And I'm sorry for ramblin and glad it didn't rattle you. I'm just a country boy from SC. We ain't smart enough to know how to use feeler gauges on guns. So I probably should have said "tad" instead of tinyLOL :)
 
Speaking of obnoxious, Good Morning.

and I like mine to be .006 of less, not more. Bigger gap, more crud blown out, quicker effect on the base pin/arbor. Less gap, quicker build up between forcing cone and cylinder. Ist situation requires disassembly, second a quick wipe.
 
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Okay, I'll humble myself. I'm not a gunsmith but i think i'm somewhat mechanically inclined since I have a small farm and have to fix most every friggin thing here. Fingers Mcgee has helped me. I renewed my interest in these guns just recently and I sell them. As far as I know I'm the only store in the Greenville-Spartanburg South Carolina area that carries these in a display case. On my earlier posts I talked about hammer hands'grease etc. I want do that anymore even though I think that Thompson 17 grease plug grease is good. I ordered a supply of Ballistol---I hope it's as good as you say. Anyway, here in Sc nobody really cares about these guns and we're trying to promote em. It is tough so far. Since there is very little mark up from wholesale to retail--I'd like a few suggestions of what I can display. Now, the Reb confederate sold and I've been looking through catologues and think I need one of each of the confederate models (Like Spiller and Burr?) etc. The Remingtons are good but I gotta get a following on low end prices. I like my 1861 Navy Ubertie. I have a 3'rd generation colt 1851 Navy nib but loading leaver wobbles at the end of the barrel. but it's just there in the box and afraid to work on it!? When I wrote about cylinder with tiny gap etc., I have a feel to whether a hand gun is safe to shoot. Now- I know what gauge should be betweeen the barrel and cylinder---but you can't go though all that to customers-- as to what you guys know unless he really wants to know. That's why I'm trying to learn as much as possible. Hell, those guys at W/Mart or Academy can't tell you nothin! NOW HERE WE GO!!!!Since I'm from SC instead of out west---would you promote the brass framers to newbies? They are cheaper and times are hard. I'm talking about the Pietta replicas like J. Dance etc. Or would you buy Walkers/dragoons etc. Just wonderin---and by the way, my experience with shootin these things is that a 36 is easier than a 44. But---I don't do competion shooting. I just want to learn as much as I can---Thanks Fingers,.
Billy Hardy/The Smokin' Gun Shop/ Spartanburg, SC
 
Oh well, at least the folks on here aren't writing the textbooks for schools.

Imagine what a mix of slurs, charges, counter-charges, conspiracies, rants, lies, propaganda, posturing and misinformation would be found on those pages!
Poor kids would probably draw a Neo Mason/Dixon line down the middle of the classroom and hurl laptops, Gameboys and books at each other! :D
 
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