Bolt action "stiff"

Ah ha, sounds like an action screw is protruding just enough to cause issues when properly torqued. Use a small washer/spacer on the action screws, torque as normal. If the stiffness goes away, you know it’s an action screw that is too long then just trim/grind the screws down one thread at a time or if you don’t mind the washer/spacer just keep it.
 
DnPRK, the closing I felt was the same on stock and off on both the original and aftermarket. The difference was when sliding the bold forward and backward that I felt the difference.

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precision_shooter, I did check the screw that is nearest to the barrel and yes did see that just enough screw protrudes out. I couldn't tell on the other screw near the trigger, but seems at it does as the bolt was better when that screw was loosen a bit too. Will try the washer method and hopefully that will fix the problem. If it works, plan on keeping the washer on there.
 
The action screw shouldn't be too long by design. Thing must have happened to make it too long. Over torquing is one possibility, especially so if no metal insert / pillar in the stock material to keep it from compressing.

I prefer grinding the screw shorter to adding a washer. It is just an additional critical part to lose. Besides, some action screw heads have slight countersink shape. Putting a flat washer under it may not work well. Trigger guards usually have counter bore to accommodate the action screw head. It would be additional pain to find a washer that fits inside that counter bore diameter. Fitting is usually required.

-TL

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tangolima, was trying to avoid grinding. The manufacturer said to torque at 60in lbs. Used a rachet and tighten it just enough (snug).
 
I understand. I went through the same with my Remington 700 BDL in 30-06. But after dealing with losing the fitted washer a few times, I changed mind. The wood compression problem was solved once for all by pillar bedding.

60 in-lb is pretty high. Your rifle must have metal insert / pillar installed in the stock. High torque as it may be for rifle action screws, 60 in-lb is only 5 ft-lb, which is nothing in auto repair talk. It can easily be carried away if the ratchet is for the latter trade. A torque driver is probably more appropriate.

-TL

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The stock purchased is an aluminum, not sure if that is the reason why torque is high. It is an Oryx chassis made by MDT, budget friendly ($400) one piece. If I must grind, then there is no other option.

To be honest I thought the stock was defect. Did not imagine it happened once in a while or if it is more regularly than I thought.
 
I agree that grinding the screw shorter is the preferred method. I only offered the washer idea as an alternative just in case there was no grinder to be had, not mechanically inclined, etc.
 
Unfortunately don't have a grinder at hand.... washer looks like the answer hopefully. Thanks.

Don't mind trying the washer method to see if it makes a difference, if it does will probably end up going to a local hardware store to take some of it off.
 
nino
60 " lbs of torque isn't too high I have a HS Precision stock with that aluminum bed that I also have bedded and my torque is 65 , if the action screw is alittle high you could file it down . I clean the locking lug raceway using a cleaning attachment that attaches a rectangular cotton block attaches to your cleaning rod , I'm sure if you used something like JB Compound on the cotton block and polish the scratches on your bolt using Mother's Billet polish it would smooth things up without going to extremes. That is a floating bolt face and your barrel is free floating in the stock .
 
I seen the JB Compound mentioned in a video I was looking regarding my problem.

I was stumped as there is some terminology I didn't understand. But a quick search and if correct is this what you are referring to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yITUZSWmMCw? Of course a different cleaning method as you suggested. The raceway is the bottom "rails" where the bolt lug slide back and forth?



Found the items you mentioned.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...mbedding-bore-cleaning-compound-prod1160.aspx
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-0510...tive&sprefix=mothers+billet+,tools,146&sr=1-1
 
Ok it is an after market stock with aluminum bedding block, instead of the "stock" stock. That is probably why the action screw becomes a bit too long. 60 in-lb is appropriate torque for aluminum bedding block, but it would be too high for bare wood or polymer.

You don't need a grinder to shorten the screw. A hand file will do the job. Just keep filing and checking one thread at a time till the binding goes away.

Good luck and enjoy your new rifle.

-TL

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Thanks. Curious though as the original stock has the same problem as well. When loosen the bolt felt better. Could that be also be to the screws being long?
 
I say yes. QC is seemingly lacking a lot these days. If I’m not mistaken, only the barreled action is tested before being mounted in a stock. So the factory likely wouldn’t have caught the problem either.
 
I would say that Savage probably put the wrong screw in that position.

They ain't the best for details.

About 4 years ago I sent one back to them for a new barrel. The one I had looked like a road under construction.

I asked if I had to remove the scope base mounts because I had them Lock Tited with the mounting screws.

They told me no, to leave them on.

For some reason, they removed them. BUT, they installed them backwards when they put them back on.

I made that screw up right by turning the bases around.

All in all, The barrel they replaced the original with was actually in worse condition than the original. Lesson learned.

That was my first and last dealings with Savage.

It took me 2 days of laborious hand lapping to get the barrel in the condition that I wanted it.
 
Looks like brass and carbon fouling to me. But it is quite a lot compared to what I’m used to seeing on new rifles. At least you know they tested it....

For what it’s worth, I owned a lot of savage rifles over the years because they were inexpensive and gave good performance.
But, I was always upgrading something to make them a little better. Then I realized was spending as much or more on the savage than if I just bought another rifle altogether.

So my mindset switched from quantity to quality. I no longer own any savage rifles. My money goes to CZ and Tikka these days. They cost more, but are much higher quality so the extra money is worth it to me.
 
Well gladly I wasn't the only one that thought so as well.

On other threads I had, people mentioned Tikka more than CZ. Hopefully I can get one of those one day. What do you see the difference between the lower end vs the high end? I'm guessing one of those things will be a no bolt stiffness. Lol.
 
The difference in the materials used, the methods of mfg, etc are what I’ve noticed the most. Like on the Tikka it’s the cold hammer forged barrel instead of the button rifling that savage uses. The blueing is a lot better quality just by looking at it. The bolt on the Tikka only has a 70° bolt lift to unlock it. There is absolutely no “stiffness”. You open the bolt and if you tip the rifle up it will fall completely open, tilt it down and it slides home. It’s like it’s riding on ceramic bearings. The trigger is great and easily adjustable.

The CZ I have uses a mini Mauser action, so it’s a controlled feed. The blueing is excellent and the wood stock is high quality unlike other domestic rifles. The trigger is superb and very adjustable. You can not only adjust the weight of the pull, but the amount of takeup you want, how much, if any, overtravel it has...
 
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