Best(less recoil) small revolver that can shoot .357 magnum

I've owned S&W, Taurus, and Ruger 357 in Scandium, and regular steel versions, and agree that the SP101 is the best choice. I especially like the 3in version.
 
The Chiappa Rhino If you can stand the exceedingly ugly apperance, and overly complicated lock works. On second thought, that overly complicated lock works might negate the reliable factor in your original question.
 
On page 11 of the "revolver checkout" (2011 edition linked in the sticky thread) there's a chart showing which weight class of gun will be controllable with which horsepower class of ammo.

Weight is a huge issue in controllability.

I think the Ruger SP101 (esp. the new 4" barrel variant) may be right at the sweet spot. It's able to handle "standard 357" (about 550ft/lbs energy, roughly on par with the best 40S&W loads) with "reasonable fomfort" and can fire the real monsters (700-800ft/lbs energy, Buffalo Bore/Underwood/Doubletap/Grizzly Cartridge) with some pain but doable in experienced hands.
 
Not having a broad range of experience with "small" revolvers, the best in my estimation is the SP101 with 4" barrel. Like others have said, not for a steady diet.

Hand loading midrange 357 makes the caliber very tolerable. Loading 158 grain to 1100 fps or less is a great practice round. Full snort 357 are bothersome to most hand-gunners if running through a lot of loads. Some of us can develop a flinch that is spectacular, and difficult to overcome. YMMV Other shooters seem to be immune to flinchitis. Those guys tick me off. :D
 
I'm 72 years old and own a SP-101 3" and kinda like shooting 357mags its a hoot. I think its heavy enough and feels solid and under control.


Rich
 
The Ruger SP101 that has been worked over by a top gunsmith is hard to beat. Mine is a Weigand "Tame the Beast" conversion. It features hybraported barrel, DAO action smooth as silk, bobbed hammer, and a coco bolo Hogue monogrip.

If you choose a reduced flash load with a full power 125 grain HP you can put all five rounds in the kill zone as fast as you can pull the trigger.



 
In a 'small' frame revolver, it is hard to argue against the Ruger SP 101. I had one for years and carried it almost daily. Whilel not light, it does allow you to shoot a lot more than, say a J frame or Taurus. When I had mine, my carry load was the old Winchester 'Black Talon' 180 gr. HP.
Still can't figure out why I sold it.
 
I'll add the Ruger SP101 to the list of small packages that handle 357 magnum:
Here is mine, worked over by Gemini Customs:



and while not exactly small....the short barreled S&W 66 most definitely handles 357 mag loads:
 
The Chiappa Rhino If you can stand the exceedingly ugly apperance, and overly complicated lock works. On second thought, that overly complicated lock works might negate the reliable factor in your original question.
Click to expand...

Just to reiterate, the reason I said a Chiappa 200D is because of the overcomplicated internals of the DS models.

But personally for me, I'd take one of those nice Sp101s any day over the Rhino.
 
I have a couple of snub J frame 357's. I don't mind recoil too much but the problem is follow up shots require finding the whole grip all over again because they move in my hand when shooting 357 loads. Having shot heavy rounds for years in IHMSA I tend to shoot with a relaxed grip and light guns with skinny grips tend to end up with the hammer spur in the web of my hand. 158 grain +P 38 specials fit these guns best IMHO. Less boom, less flash and they gun stays put.
 
Small is relative....and so is the frame size / if I decide to carry a revolver, I use the same holster whether its a K frame 2 1/2" model 66 or a 4" model 66 or model 19....any of the K frames are very easy to carry - and to me, they're small..../ but I'll take a model 19 or 66 in a 4" over my 2 1/2" guns for the longer sight plane alone, I'm a lot more accurate with the 4" than I am with the 2 1/2" versions.

Weight of the gun - is a primary factor in the recoil formula / 8 oz makes a real big difference in the amount of recoil you get ( about 15% ).

But it mostly comes down to what fits your hands the best..../ none of the J frames work for me personally .../ where the K frames are ok ( the L or N frames are a lot better )...

but shooting a K frame in a 2 1/2" or a 4" with .357 mag ( 158 grain ) I can be very effective out to 24 Feet / which is all I need for Defense.

If I want to shoot "bulls eye" practice....I go to an N frame, model 27, in a 6" ....and push the target out to 20 and 25 yds with a 3" bullseye. My eyes are not good ...but off hand, with open sights, I can punish the 3" circle about 80% of the time...somedays better than others.
 
Magna-ported Rhino? (Do they have those?) You've got basic physics working against you here; a lower barrel with torque your wrist less, and a compensator could divert a modicum of recoil from powder ejecta. Unless you've got a second barrel firing backwards, a snubbie is what it is; better than getting shot. And a second barrel firing backwards would defeat the purpose :D

TCB
 
The 586 model is an L frame....( so med-large ) between the K and N frames...

Nothing wrong with the L frames ( the 686 probably being the most popular L frames ) but they are a little heavier - and a hair wider than the K frames ( like the model 66's )...

I will add, for myself, I prefer the grip of a Sq Butt frame over the Round Butt....in my hands, the Round Butt frames get away from me a little in rapid fire drills. You can put a grip or stock on the gun to change the round butt into a sq butt feel .../ but its a personal choice...and why we kick this stuff around in terms of what each of us like to shoot, carry, etc...
 
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