Smith and Wesson 360J. Generally limited production runs of the scandium framed revolvers marked and made specifically for .38 rather than .357. Since no one fires a steady diet of .357 from those 12 ounce beasts it seems a reasonable build AND since "everyone" who wants one wants one in 357 they can generally be had reasonably cheap.
Best grab N go J-Frame
- Thread starter TxFlyFish
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Cheapshooter
New member
Put them all in a bag, shake it up, pull one out.
Then go trade it for an LCR!
Then go trade it for an LCR!
The hammer question Clang raised in post 4 would be the major point for me. (For the use you described I would like the shrouded hammer, like a 638, and not one with a hammer spur that could get hung up on stuff.
I don't really care what material the cylinder is made of because I trust S&W enough to believe whatever it is it's going to work okay so that consideration would be way down on my list.
For all my hot air above if I was actually going to do this I'd probably just pick the one that felt the best in my hand and then figure out how to justify it later.
I don't really care what material the cylinder is made of because I trust S&W enough to believe whatever it is it's going to work okay so that consideration would be way down on my list.
For all my hot air above if I was actually going to do this I'd probably just pick the one that felt the best in my hand and then figure out how to justify it later.
I feel that the steel j frame at close to 20oz is a bit too heavy to just stuff it down my pocket. Feels like a lump. It’s less noticeable with the alum or scandium versions. 357 or the more powerful 38 (l@L) doesn’t bother me either way in a light gun. I’m interested in everyone’s take of cylinder material and front sight setup (ramped, swappable etc) and hammer. I like having a hammer for looks even though I shoot da most of time
I love the 360j! Makes me want to load it with plain Remington umc lrn 38
I love the 360j! Makes me want to load it with plain Remington umc lrn 38
2damnold4this
New member
^this is true.
A model 60 weighs about the same as a six shot K6s and not much less than a G26 when both are fully loaded. I'll take an Airweight or an Airlight over a steel frame J for concealed carry.
642 or 442 for pocket carry, i'd get the 637 for holster. Be advised that the Airweight guns are not easy to shoot accurately due to the very light weight. For self defense they are good tho. I have 2 642s, one is for carry, the other is in the car. I carry in a pocket. There is a reason they are sometimes called "belly guns".
I tend to actually carry my all steel "J" frames more often than the Airweight.
If it is pocket carry with a pocket holster it is the Lemon Squeezer:
and if it is OWB in the Fobus Paddle holster it is the pre model 36:
But I strongly discourage ever just sticking any handgun in a pocket without a holster.
If it is pocket carry with a pocket holster it is the Lemon Squeezer:
and if it is OWB in the Fobus Paddle holster it is the pre model 36:
But I strongly discourage ever just sticking any handgun in a pocket without a holster.
buck460XVR
New member
As Clang also mentioned in post 4, the hammer question is a can of worms, and purely a personal choice. As for the hammer on my 637 "hanging up" on something, it ain't never happened. Even when pocket carrying, it's in a holster and when drawn, my thumb/hand shrouds it. I prefer to have the choice to shoot DA or SA and to uncock the SA action easily and safely. No different than my other carry, the 1911. Also as others have said, while the steel framed revolvers are a tad more pleasant to shoot, the little snubbies are not really meant to be a range toy. The difference in weight when toting around all day between them and the alloy frames can be quite noticeable.
I had a 640 jframe....great snubbie for 357’s. It gravitated from pocket to own carry. It was great! Then I thought I could replace with an IWB 1911 Commander. Ok, but the J was smaller and more grab and go.
So I like the j frame hidden hammer type. As for 357 or scandium for the 38 spcl and 357 option..
So I like the j frame hidden hammer type. As for 357 or scandium for the 38 spcl and 357 option..
thoughts on a ruger sp101
Hey Guys
So I recently decided to add a snub nose revolver to the family. I had a Taurus 85 years ago and foolishly sold it to a friend. That gun was a lot of fun and was uber reliable. After much research and trips to several LGS's the Ruger sp101 stood out. I initially wanted a used one but I haven't had much luck finding one locally and really don't want to deal with gunbroker. One LGS had both new blue and stainless models in stock(357) The blue one was real sharp. After reading some of the horror stories about Ruger quality issues in another tread and having experienced them myself in the fall when I purchased a new single six that was missing a front sight right from the factory(After getting a replacement sight that single six is a sweet shooter) I had to be vigilant about my inspection. I could not find anything wrong with the finish and the trigger was a bit heavy but smooth. They had a few used smiths that I handled but I kept on coming back to the Ruger. Anyway I didn't buy it yet , waiting on some extra money to come in. I figure in about 2 weeks. So what do you guys think? Good move or look elsewhere. By the way they had a k6 and a cobra that were beautiful but out of my price range.So many choices
Hey Guys
So I recently decided to add a snub nose revolver to the family. I had a Taurus 85 years ago and foolishly sold it to a friend. That gun was a lot of fun and was uber reliable. After much research and trips to several LGS's the Ruger sp101 stood out. I initially wanted a used one but I haven't had much luck finding one locally and really don't want to deal with gunbroker. One LGS had both new blue and stainless models in stock(357) The blue one was real sharp. After reading some of the horror stories about Ruger quality issues in another tread and having experienced them myself in the fall when I purchased a new single six that was missing a front sight right from the factory(After getting a replacement sight that single six is a sweet shooter) I had to be vigilant about my inspection. I could not find anything wrong with the finish and the trigger was a bit heavy but smooth. They had a few used smiths that I handled but I kept on coming back to the Ruger. Anyway I didn't buy it yet , waiting on some extra money to come in. I figure in about 2 weeks. So what do you guys think? Good move or look elsewhere. By the way they had a k6 and a cobra that were beautiful but out of my price range.So many choices
Years ago, I carried a Model 60, then a 640, and in recent years the lighter 642, all .38s. I prefer the no snag/"hammerless" profile of the Centennial type S&Ws. My J-Frames all have steel cylinders, and of course titanium would be lighter. But I've found the basic alloy framed 642 with steel cylinder to be light enough for my use......ymmv
The two in my assortment matching the OP's requirement is a Model 42 Centennial Airweight and a Model 36 (no dash) Chief's Special.
I like both and have carried both from time to time, but would prefer my Model 66-2 Combat Magnum with a 2 & 1/2" barrel. It allows equal or more power (.38 Special/.357 Magnum) with only slightly more size and weight of a stainless Steel K Frame. It also provides an extra round and more consideration to the palm of your hand with extended shooting. The target sights are also easier for my eyes to acquire quickly. I prefer 158 gr. bullets for both caliber of ammunition.
I like both and have carried both from time to time, but would prefer my Model 66-2 Combat Magnum with a 2 & 1/2" barrel. It allows equal or more power (.38 Special/.357 Magnum) with only slightly more size and weight of a stainless Steel K Frame. It also provides an extra round and more consideration to the palm of your hand with extended shooting. The target sights are also easier for my eyes to acquire quickly. I prefer 158 gr. bullets for both caliber of ammunition.