best copper fouling remover

My only trouble with the KG products is that I've never seen a store near me that carries them. KG-12 works so well that I would assume KG-1 is just as good. I hate having to order the stuff.

My use of the blue foam started based on a "What's available?" criteria.:D
 
"....trouble with the KG products is that I've never seen a store near me...."
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Agreed (and I can't figure out why :mad: )

That said, I just order it by the quart (Kg-1), and by the pint (K-12) from Midway and that gets me through a long, long time.
 
Another KG-12 fan - except that it is a royal PITA to use. It won't soak into a patch (just wants to roll off) so it can get really messy if you try to use it like you would an ordinary cleaner.
 
When I picked a new cleaner to replace good ol Hoppes #9 I did a fair amount of research or both other peoples testing & carried out some of my own. I didn't want a foaming cleaner specifically because a couple of my guns are gas operated self loaders & I didn't want the foam getting up into the gas port area as I'd heard of a couple of people having an issue.

The KG was a front runner so I got some & also the M-pro products.

Neither was "perfect" (surprise)!
The KG dried too quickly for me & also felt "dry" in the bore when running patches through. It also seemed reluctant to soak into the patches, running off as I applied it.
Once you got past those it worked very well & I was impressed.

The M-pro won by a small margin mainly because it was thicker, evaporated slower & soaked in faster. On the down side it is a 2 chemical process & so is a bit more expensive. I like to clean overnight, letting the solvent dissolve fouling rather than scraping it out. Because of that the M-Pro won because it stays in place overnight.

If for some reason I couldn't find M-pro I'd swap to KG without a thought. It was a close run race.
 
It also seemed reluctant to soak into the patches, running off as I applied it.
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That is annoying. I always thought it was just the particular patches I was using until I saw a great many reports from others saying the same thing.

I solved it by dunking the whole thing in the bottle.:D
 
I wrote to them about it, asking if they couldn't add some kind of wetting agent to break down the surface tension. I never got an acknowledgment or reply.:rolleyes:

I wonder what would happen if you added a couple of drops of the old "Kodak Photo Flow 200" or a similar photographic wetting agent, as its an acid free, low foam wetting/sequestering agent? One bottle should last a lifetime.:cool:

http://www.adorama.com/KKPF200P.html
 
Brian, I solved my KG-12 mess problem by using gravity. I put a patch on the jag and stick it just far enough up the chamber to seal it against the lands. Then, I turn the rifle muzzle up and shoot some KG-12 down the muzzle. I let it sit for a few minutes to disperse onto the patch then slowly push the patch to the muzzle. Doing this with a mult-piece rod is easier than with a one-piece as you can just use a single piece until you get ready to push the jag through.
 
Doyle, Brian, use Pro Shot patches, it soaks into them like water into toilet paper,,,,its the only patch I use, and they have benchrest brushes also that work a hell of a lot better than other brushes Ive used....tryem,,,
 
A 50-50 mix of Hoppe's No. 9 and anhydrous ammonia is great. Smell will get you crazy and it'll burn your fingers. Don't let it touch anything but the bore and cleaning stuff. But a wet patch followed by old bore brushes back and forth works wonders. Do this several times outside in a breeze so the fumes blow away. The greener the patches the more copper's dissolving and coming out. Quit when patches come out white then lightly oil the bore.
 
A 50-50 mix of Hoppe's No. 9 and anhydrous ammonia is great
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considering that anhydrous is the most dangerous material allowable to be transported via railroad... i would be reluctant to even possess any... no less use it. plus I had the great fortune to use hoppes 9 for the first time a few weeks ago, i do not want to do that ever again.

I think i'll go with the kg12. thanks for the recommendations guys, I'll let y'all know how it works.
 
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In the product test that I saw (may even be the same one Brian talked about), KG-12 beat even pure ammonia.
 
So, I read the mfg.website for mpro7. It says there is no visual indicator that copper is being removed. Was I hallucinating when I saw the blue goo?
 
My wife works at a local beauty supply, where they have small, (10 oz) squeezable bottles with cone shaped lids, they work perfectly for any bore cleaners and copper removers.
And if I drop it, they dont spill.
 
Gee Bart, do you get your anhydrous ammonia in a pressure cylinder?
A little lecture bottle will hold 6 oz at 220 psi, which ought to do a number of barrels.

I saw some anhydrous ammonia drained off into an open bucket once. I held my breath and got close enough to watch it boil.

I got some KG12 for my stubborn coppering, although I have not used any yet.
 
Jim, when first used it, got it in a 4-oz. bottle from a college chemical sales store. Used it for a year or so but quit due to the stench. Sweets came out then and it worked almost as good but with much less stench.
 
I'd sure like to see the bottle. As I said, anhydrous ammonia has a vapor pressure around 220 psi at room temperature and boils at -28F at atmospheric pressure.

The strongest non-pressure ammonia solution is around 28%. It has an awful stench but it is not anhydrous. It is one of the ingredients of the 1920s "ammonia dope" along with ammonium carbonate and ammonium persulfate.
 
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