Best 45acp powder , with specific requirements

I've tried a lot of different powders over the years but I keep going back to W231/HP38.

Yeah. Me too. I could have penned the above quote.

Just received my 8# jug of W231 from Cabela's yesterday ;) And that is on top of the 3 #'s I already had.
 
I understand you want what you want, but I don't understand the obsession with "clean burning powder" I see so much of in forums today (and I mean no offence). I used a lot of Unique in my reloads over quite a few years and can't say "dirty" powder has had any effect on my guns. I have fired nearly 300 rounds at one time through a 1911 with no stoppages due to "dirty" powder. I have use a good variety of powders in my .44 Magnums and none have shown any ill effects with upwards of 150 rounds per session. I have always been able to clean up after a session either at an indoor facility or outdoor range, and in the "wild" I always have water. I keep hand towels in my range case and if I feel something is "too sooty"I can just wipe it off. Just my observations...
 
Going by Hodgdon's burn rates, VV N340 is faster than HS-6.

Going by Vihtavuori's chart, it is just a tad slower.

And going by Accurate/Ramshot's burn rate chart (the one I prefer because it best respresents my personal experience - by far) N-340 has the same burn rate as HS-6.

I stand corrected. Thank you for the head's up.

I don't have much personal experience with V-V powders. I was just siting a "for instance" situation. Replace "N-340" with "N-350" in my post (#35), and it'll still apply.
 
I don't understand the obsession with "clean burning powder" I see so much of in forums today (and I mean no offense).

It means different things to different people.

And its importance means more to some people than others.

And it's quite subjective.

I like a clean burn because it tells me the propellant (and ammunition at large) is running right. But I have also loaded ammo that runs crummy/dirty and it yields excellent chronograph results - consistent and accurate. But I still don't like it. That would be the OCD in me :p.

An average trip to the range for me puts about 200 rounds through a gun. At that quantity, gun function is not going to be effected, no matter how much soot 200 rounds can deposit. Besides, I clean my guns after every range trip (more OCD). So for me, a dirty gun has nothing to do with it.

It's mostly about knowing that I'm building good ammo. Ammo that's charged to proper pressure and running as it should. Just the viewpoint of one loader.
 
Try ramshot silhouette...you can achieve 1000fps with it, it's clean, meters well, consistent and is low flash which is a bonus!

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Perhaps a better term than "clean" is appropriate. "Complete" or "efficient"? I understand using a power to it's optimum charge/pressure, but I don't think many of those asking about "clean" powders appreciate that fact...
 
It means different things to different people.

And its importance means more to some people than others.

And it's quite subjective.

I like a clean burn because it tells me the propellant (and ammunition at large) is running right. But I have also loaded ammo that runs crummy/dirty and it yields excellent chronograph results - consistent and accurate. But I still don't like it. That would be the OCD in me .

That's pretty much it in a nut shell . I just got back from the range and was trying cfe pistol in 9mm with 147gr platted bullets . Sooty scorched cases again . I tried CFE with 115gr bullets not to long ago and it was very sooty so I bought a bunch of 147gr bullets hoping it would make a difference . It actually did help some . I did not get quite a scorched cases this time . With Titegroup my cases come out almost as clean as they go in .

Perhaps a better term than "clean" is appropriate. "Complete" or "efficient"?

Yes maybe I should have chose my words better . I don't really have an issue with having a dirty gun . My issue is understanding my sooty cases tell me the comb is not best for the application which is subjective as well . I think my issue is the only powders I could find when I started was relatively slow powders for my application and it's bothered me from the start .

To be sure I've loaded some good accurate and at times pretty hot loads using those slower powders but really other then Titegroup I've not used powders faster then HS-6 although WSF on some charts is a bit faster but still not in the area of what I'd call a fast burning powder .

I think my other problem is I loaded Rifle for years before I started loading pistol . I get uber technical when loading My rifle loads . I want everything perfect and I'm starting to realize my OCD there is actually hurting my pistol loading because I'm never satisfied with the complete results even though I've loaded some quite suitable loads already .

So for now I'll pick up either one of or a couple of - 231/HP-38 , AA#2 , N-320 and maybe some WST . and maybe a pellet gun haha :D

What do you all think about those choices . Don't forget I've gave up on the 900+fps yard stick

FWIW I had great results at the rifle range today ;)
 
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231/HP-38 , AA#2 , N-320

All three are great.

As for scorched cases: I don't really put a lot of "read" into that in terms of running clean. Especially in 45 ACP. It's a low pressure round. There's going to be blow-back on the case. Winchester White Box factory ammo (jacketed 230gn RN) - basically clean, middle of the road ammo, produces scorched cases about 3/4 of the way down.

And just for the record, I've pulled a few WWB rounds of ammo recently. They contain 5.0 grains of a propellant that looks a heck of a lot like TiteGroup. I'm not saying it's TG; but I am saying I wouldn't be one bit suprised if it's the "non-canister grade" version of it.
 
If you really need or want super clean, light target loads, it's do-able with Clays or N310 and plated bullets.

I ran plated 200 grain Rainier SWC's for many years with those 2 powders and they're about as clean shooting as it gets for low pressure rounds, solid accuracy too.

But you're going to need a second powder for your full power loads, like your HS-6.
 
Yes maybe I should have chose my words better . I don't really have an issue with having a dirty gun . My issue is understanding my sooty cases tell me the comb is not best for the application which is subjective as well . I think my issue is the only powders I could find when I started was relatively slow powders for my application and it's bothered me from the start .
Most (all) the causes of sooty cases I've experienced, regardless of the powder, was from loads too light for an efficient burn and not sealing the case to the chamber. I use Unique and Universal in some of my 9mm reloads, but not at low/starting levels...
 
Most (all) the causes of sooty cases I've experienced, regardless of the powder, was from loads too light for an efficient burn and not sealing the case to the chamber.

That's my understanding as a whole as to why you get that issue regardless of cartridge . It's clear to me that with the exception of Titegroup I don't have or use a powder that can safely be loaded at a level that would achieve what I want . That's the point of my inquiry . Rather then me buying another 4 to 8 pounds of different powders and testing them all which would cost a good amount in not only the powders but the rest of the components to do so . I figured I come here and ask you all to help me narrow down the search .

I put very strict requirements as to narrow down the suggestions . I belive it worked but I still got recommendations from #3 to #53 on the two burn rate charts I check most . I'm looking now at anything in the #13 through #31 area and really concentrating on the upper 2/3 of that list as being the most likely to get me where I want to be . AS you can see I only have one of those .
https://www.hodgdon.com/PDF/Burn Rates - 2015-2016.pdf
http://www.gamaliel.com/images/BurnRatesnov10.pdf
 
Regardless of the powder you choose, if the internal pressure generated by the powder charge is low, it won't create the case/chamber seal, and "sooting" occurs. Perhaps if you look at PSI of a specific charge rather than a specific "speed" of powder?

With a low PSI charge of BUllseye you can get soot. With a low charge of True Blue you can get soot.
 
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If you remove metering as a requirement, 700x honestly isn't a bad powder. It is pretty fast burning for heavy bullet 45, but in my experience it is pretty stable as long as you aren't pushing the limits of published loads. It does burn pretty clean (being a fast powder and all), plus it will get nearly 900 with a 230gn LRN. Probably need to slow it down a bit with JHPs.

All this plus a 14 ounce can costs about 18 bucks and will load 1k rounds...

As someone else has paid, I'm a little more fast powder minded. Short of full house loads, and HS6 works well for that so long as you're near max load. Even in medium rifle cartridges. I run reloader 10x in 223, a fairly fast powder that will not play well with heavier bullets. For full bore rifle... Slow powders with accuracy and velocity are king.
 
"Oh I will and if I take out the 900fps need there are already a few that do everything else."

But you NEED Magical Unicorn Fart powder to make that 900 fps barrier!

Since you're now moderating your requirements a bit (and more reasonably), as others have noted there are quite a few powders that will now fit your needs.

My go to powder for virtually all of my handgun reloading is WW 231.

I would also be inclined to look at something like AA 5.

I've used AA 7 in 10mm and .41 Magnum and have always been impressed by it.
 
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