Back again with Percussion shotgun...
- Thread starter Doc Hoy
- Start date
Was able to get one of the nipples out. I found that the flame channel is pretty huge when it is cleared. Between an eigth and three sixteenths in dia.
Initially it was completely plugged. The breach of the left barrel was also fouled. About an inch of fouling (although I think it was not fouling) or mud (although it was pure black) or perhaps the remnants of a load of powder. No wad or anything else.
The nipple on the right barrel was so rusted and boogered up it would not come out. Had to be drilled but once I drilled through it, the nipple loosed enough to turn it out with an easy out.
Nipple are 7 mm by 1.0 pitch. The one good original took a number 10 cap. In that nipple the flame channel was open.
The shotgun appears to have been stored in an outside wood pile for about thirty years.
Left and right side of the stock in pretty banged up.
Initially it was completely plugged. The breach of the left barrel was also fouled. About an inch of fouling (although I think it was not fouling) or mud (although it was pure black) or perhaps the remnants of a load of powder. No wad or anything else.
The nipple on the right barrel was so rusted and boogered up it would not come out. Had to be drilled but once I drilled through it, the nipple loosed enough to turn it out with an easy out.
Nipple are 7 mm by 1.0 pitch. The one good original took a number 10 cap. In that nipple the flame channel was open.
The shotgun appears to have been stored in an outside wood pile for about thirty years.
Left and right side of the stock in pretty banged up.
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Stock
The stock was broken through about an in forward of the trigger.
I don't have a photo of the damage to the left side of the stock but thankfully both sides could be brought together with only minor cosmetic work.
I thought I might make some wood putty by mixing the sanding dust from the stock with wood glue.
First time I tried that. It make a very solid joint. Stronger than the original wood. Unfortunately the color of the putty is not a match for the wood in the stock.
I'll try to get a shot of that so you can see what I mean.
The shotgun never had the fittings over the wedge holes. So the wood around the wedge holes is in very rough shape. I will make some bezels to do over the holes to try to pretty up the sides of the arm.
When I got the shotgun, the wedge was missing, as was the ramrod
The stock was broken through about an in forward of the trigger.
I don't have a photo of the damage to the left side of the stock but thankfully both sides could be brought together with only minor cosmetic work.
I thought I might make some wood putty by mixing the sanding dust from the stock with wood glue.
First time I tried that. It make a very solid joint. Stronger than the original wood. Unfortunately the color of the putty is not a match for the wood in the stock.
I'll try to get a shot of that so you can see what I mean.
The shotgun never had the fittings over the wedge holes. So the wood around the wedge holes is in very rough shape. I will make some bezels to do over the holes to try to pretty up the sides of the arm.
When I got the shotgun, the wedge was missing, as was the ramrod
Attachments
I'm sure it had wedge escutcheons at one time but after they were removed for whatever reason the stock could have been sanded. It looks like you can see the outline of one in your bottom pic. I also doubt it's been sitting in a wood pile for 30 years. I've got an old Parker that a man had hanging over his back door on a covered porch and it's in a lot worse shape that yours. When I took the barrels out of the stock the solder had rotted and the whole thing just fell apart. The stock is a lot worse than yours.
Well....
Hawg,
If it had escutcheons before it has them again. I made a set from a piece of steel conduit
I think this thing would shoot. I made the nipples for it yesterday (Too lazy and cheap to buy a pair). It popped caps on both barrels. The flame channels are wide open.
Today, I deposited some metal on the breach hooks (or whatever the things are called that hold the barrels into the stock). It was very loose and the extra steel filed down made it a nice tight fit.
A previous owner did some work on the muzzles which resulted in about a five degree down angle. I trued that up as well.
The welding on the breach hooks went pretty well, so I am thinking that I will try the same technique on the right hammer. The skirt is splayed out and very worn.
Hawg,
If it had escutcheons before it has them again. I made a set from a piece of steel conduit
I think this thing would shoot. I made the nipples for it yesterday (Too lazy and cheap to buy a pair). It popped caps on both barrels. The flame channels are wide open.
Today, I deposited some metal on the breach hooks (or whatever the things are called that hold the barrels into the stock). It was very loose and the extra steel filed down made it a nice tight fit.
A previous owner did some work on the muzzles which resulted in about a five degree down angle. I trued that up as well.
The welding on the breach hooks went pretty well, so I am thinking that I will try the same technique on the right hammer. The skirt is splayed out and very worn.
Some words on the barrel proof marks.
It is marked with the E over L.G over the star in an oval. Muzzle loading black powder before 1893 (Belgium).
It has the candlestick holder for black powder
It has the script E L optional provisional.
There is a star over a capital D on both barrels
The left barrel is marked 18 over capital P.
The right barrel is marked with a capital MC.
There are other marks I can't make out.
The bore at the muzzle measures .78.
I date the shotgun's manufacture sometime between 1852 and 1893.
It is marked with the E over L.G over the star in an oval. Muzzle loading black powder before 1893 (Belgium).
It has the candlestick holder for black powder
It has the script E L optional provisional.
There is a star over a capital D on both barrels
The left barrel is marked 18 over capital P.
The right barrel is marked with a capital MC.
There are other marks I can't make out.
The bore at the muzzle measures .78.
I date the shotgun's manufacture sometime between 1852 and 1893.
Photos of the finished piece.
Took this with sunlight only in just before dusk light.
I am happy with the way the wood came out.
It is sanded down to 220, then tung oil applied with a bare hand. Then steel wool and then another tung oil treatment.
Took this with sunlight only in just before dusk light.
I am happy with the way the wood came out.
It is sanded down to 220, then tung oil applied with a bare hand. Then steel wool and then another tung oil treatment.
Attachments
Nipples process
More shots of the nipples.
I got the drill bit dimensions from the one original nipple that came out in one piece.
The nipple shoulder diameter was also taken from the original nipple as was the nipple end dimensions. Taper was derived by calculating the correct extreme end diameter for a number 10 cap.
Shoulder flats were cut to eye. I have no idea if they are close. They work with a nipple wrench so I guess they are Okay.
More shots of the nipples.
I got the drill bit dimensions from the one original nipple that came out in one piece.
The nipple shoulder diameter was also taken from the original nipple as was the nipple end dimensions. Taper was derived by calculating the correct extreme end diameter for a number 10 cap.
Shoulder flats were cut to eye. I have no idea if they are close. They work with a nipple wrench so I guess they are Okay.
