Not looking to crap on Amp or any other maker, just consider the times recommended by Amp are off for US power grid users... One more vairable to consider.
I have no idea if the demonstration videos Amp produces are accurate or not, fouled brass doesn't anneal at the same rate as clean (Inside & outside) brass does, another vairable to consider.
There is a reason I steel pin clean before anything else goes on, I'm simply trying to remove as many vairables as possible.
As for 'Annie' (I have one), timing is built into the machine at 1/10 second intervals.
Power level transferred into the brass can be adjusted by the size of coil (larger coils are less efficient) or by the gap size in the ferrite, larger gaps are less efficient.
When you get your time approximate, and you want to fine tune, you simply start with a TIME slightly above what your end goal is, then open the gap until you get exactly what you are looking for.
The ferrite gap can also be shaped to apply more power at the shoulder bends, where the brass is thicker, and wider gap as it reaches the upper neck/mouth so you don't over heat the neck/mouth.
We went over that shaping in a couple of threads with another user that was overheating the upper neck/mouth before the shoulder reached proper target temp. It works pretty well, but shaping that ceramic ferrite can be a pain! I use a cheap diamond abrasive saw blade intended for ceramic tiles, it works pretty good on the ferrites.
When the mouth simply overheats, my solution was to simply stick the mouth further up, out from between the ferrite ends, then shape ferrite to be less efficient at the upper end,
This gave me a uniform 'Hardness' & grain structure all the way up the shoulder, neck & mouth.
If the mountain won't come to Mohammed, Mohammed goes to the mountain!
Worked out better than my first idea, which was to use a wet swab in the case neck to slow heating.
Swabs don't like to stay fluffed up and in full contact with the case, and it's nearly impossible to keep a swab uniformly wet & cool.
By shaping the ferrite, it's consistent every single time, no extra crap required.
Getting a CONSISTENT BRASS product INTO the press produces a consistent brass product OUT of the press.
My computer geek friend is fond of saying 'Garbage In, Garbage Out',
Instead of beating my head against the wall trying to get differing brass hardness to resize consistently,
I started from scratch and put a uniform, consistent hardness brass into the press in the first place.
If you buy brand new brass, all the same lot,
Then shoot it through the same chamber (hopefully a tight chamber so it's not blown out),
Then keep track of how many reloads, and keep that brass together,
You usually have brass that shoots well since it's the same age, work hardened the same, run through the same chamber & dies, ect.
You are keeping consistency, even though the consistency is changing slightly and you are compensating for the changes....
This has been the common 'Wisdom' and accepted way to do things...
For those of us that nearly never buy new brass, shoot range pickup fired through who knows what chamber, reloaded an unknown number of times and sized on who knows what dies...
THAT'S A CRAP LOAD OF VAIRABLES!
CONSISTENT ANNEALING, to a very large degree, resets the clock on that brass and gives you a consistent starting point, even if you aren't worried about 'Perfect' annealing, or bench gun groups, you still get very good results by simply giving YOUR sizing dies a REASONABLY consistent brass product to work with...
With range pickup, every manufacturer WILL have a different brass formula, no way around that, annealing is letting you make the best of the situation no matter the formula of the brass.
Everyone that shoots range pickup knows this brand or that brand shoots better in their particular rifle, but once annealed & given a PROPER resize, let's face it, nothing shoots 'Better' than FREE BRASS, simply because it's FREE BRASS!
It's like sex, the worst you ever had was STILL SEX!
For the science minded,
It's about the bullet hold/release.
Frankly, after proper annealing, you would need a bench rifle to tell the difference.
If you can shoot a single hole that just gets a little darker & fuzzier with brand new, top of the line brass,
But your properly annealed range pickup or milbrass shoots one jagged hole, (10 rounds under a dime), then that's pretty darn good, and only a bench shooter would be able to tell the difference.
Most guys that shoot 'Minute Of Barn Door' groups wouldn't know the difference between Lapua & Russian steel case anyway...
It's the reloaders, that shoot from benches with mostly common rifles that will benefit the most.
A guy with a bench queen that is capable of one hole groups isn't going to compromise by using range pickup or common manufacturer brass,
The guy that empties magazines by clicking off rounds at nothing won't know the difference...
It's those of us that actually AIM a more or less common rifle that will see the biggest difference...