338 RUM - Need opinions.

L

ligonierbill

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Some time ago, I had a Remington 700 8mm Mag rebarreled (Shaw) to 338 RUM. The only thing I did to the stock was add a crossbolt behind the recoil lug. Working loads is a little slow, because a) It eats powder and (expensive) shot, and b) It kicks :eek:. Thus far, I have two loads: 250 SGK @ 2,892/11.2 and 275 Swift A-Frame @ 2,682/4.3. Both track about 200 fps faster than the same bullet in a 338 Win Mag. The Sierra bullet groups OK, as does the Swift at a 1% reduced charge. But neither matches my 338 Win Mag Savage 116, and the A-Frame really spreads out at max velocity. BTW, it's right at Swift's max.

So, should I just bed the Remington stock, or should I buy a "modern" synthetic with a built in chassis to tame this thing?

To answer some questions in advance: No, I'm not flinching. I am accustomed to shooting rifles with "stout" recoil, and today I took my "sissy pad". Why am I shooting such a beast? Why not? But I have to say, as yet I do not see a role for this round. But I'm just getting started.
 
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First off, that sounds unpleasant. Why would you do that to yourself?

Secondly, I would bed the stock. If you put it in a synthetic stock, I would bed that too. Erik Cortina did a series called the 6.5 needs more. Took 2 Remington 700 base model hunting rifles in 6.5 creedmore and did small sucessive upgrades to see what things had the biggest effect on accuracy. bedding the stock was one of the big factors. 1/2moa with a bedded plastic stock. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCVzMwqmKb0
 
I shoot a savage 110 in 338 Lapua Magnum--it's a bit more powerful than the RUM but by a negligible amount, so I'm guessing you can use similar loads. Savage did such a good job (IMO) configuring the rifle I saw no need to modify anything. It is one of the most accurate rifles I have. I can't say for sure why, but I think the felt recoil is really very tolerable for the level of power--I take a much bigger pounding from my 45-70; for example. I wouldn't want to shoot it all day; but I have done 20 shots at one go--stopping mostly because it heats up fast and each time I pull the trigger I'm sending a six pack of beer downrange :D. Savage has a nice brake on it--but it doesn't look especially exotic, maybe it goes a long way to reducing the felt recoil.

H1000 is the "magic dust" for 338 LM--but I'm just about out and can't find it anywhere. I've had some very good results with Ramshot magnum using 285 eldm's; I've heard that 285/295 gr is the sweet spot for projectile weight. I have shot a couple of other RUMs in smaller calibers in lightweight hunting rifles without brakes--not especially pleasant. I don't know about the .338 RUM--but the 338 LM is what I would call "inherently accurate." Maybe if you just added some weight to the setup and maybe a decent muzzle brake and it will "come together."
 
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Sorry, when I said "tame this beast", I meant making it do what I want, which is <MOA groups. This gun rocks you and tires you out, but it doesn't hurt you. My Winchester 1895 hurt me last week, but that's what you get with a narrow crescent buttplate, even though its 250s were going 900 fps slower than this one. I probably will just lock the action in epoxy, cheapest way to go, but I wonder about some of these new stocks. It's all fun!
 
Sorry, when I said "tame this beast", I meant making it do what I want, which is <MOA groups. This gun rocks you and tires you out, but it doesn't hurt you. My Winchester 1895 hurt me last week, but that's what you get with a narrow crescent buttplate, even though its 250s were going 900 fps slower than this one. I probably will just lock the action in epoxy, cheapest way to go, but I wonder about some of these new stocks. It's all fun!
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That's why I made the bullet/powder suggestion. The only thing I'm not sure of is how a finer spherical powder column would do in the RUM--ramshot magnum works well in the LM but I stay away from loads that are not near full capacity to avoid "funkiness" like incomplete ignition/hangfires.
 
If you don't see a role for the rifle, I wouldn't waste time and money on developing loads or changing the stock. Sell it now and use the money you save to buy something you can see a role for.

But if I kept it, I'd put it in a B&C medalist with the aluminum chassis. Normally that stock is heavier and thicker than I want, but I have different needs. That is a heavy stock that will help soften recoil. The metal chassis is there for strength. I think it would be a nice fit with that rifle.

Another less expensive option is the Hogue stock. I haven't kept up with their offerings, but they used to offer 2 different stocks. One with pillars that was heavy, but manageable. They also had one with the full chassis. That stock alone was over 3 lbs. Most people opted for the lighter version, and they may not even offer the other one anymore.
 
Excellent--I'm not sure about your RUM--but if the twist and chamber can accommodate it I highly recommend trying the 285 eldm.

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I have 270 ELD-X, which will be my next test. But I'll deal with the stock first. Heavy is not my first choice, and it's easy enough to bed the original.
 
Thanks to all for sharing your views and experience. I'll let you know how I do, but I just got distracted by the delivery (finally!) of my Richards Microfit AAA myrtle stock. This one is going on a 220 Swift that I've discussed before. Still haven't decided on the RUM stock. Since this is a project, and I've never tried a B&C before, maybe that's worth a few bucks. And while I'm awaiting delivery, I'll be sanding, and sanding, and sanding...
 
Enough thinking; I took jmr40's advice and ordered a B&C stock. That's in keeping with the learning nature of this project, and it is a project, except it has no defined endpoint. Hence the uncertainty of the role of this rifle. I am fine with wandering around and having fun.
 
I have little use for a rifle like yours, and I even hunt elk pretty regular. It's definitely a cartridge designed for the long range hunter in mind. If you can shoot it well, it'll serve you for anything you might want to hunt except for DG if caliber restricted.
 
I'd sell the thing and buy a Tikka .308 then have the barrel shortened to 20 inches. It makes a very good elk and moose rifle. Shoot two quick shots into the chest organs and its over quickly. - Jack
 
Friends, I have two 308s. Love 'em. I killed both my elk with a 7 Mag, my Dad's rifle, still have it (and still shoots MOA). Last time I went after big critters (and next time if there is one) I packed a 338 Win Mag. This is a project that takes me somewhere I haven't been before. And Elmer would love it.
 
Go for it and have fun! The only serious drawback I can think of is if you don't have someplace reasonably nearby that you can shoot out to at least 500 yds--you'll get frustrated quickly otherwise and revert to the shorter range cartridges.
 
Thunder Valley is 2 hours away, near Zanesville. They have 1,000 yards and, sometimes, a mile range. Once I get this working, I'll be headed over there.
 
I shot the .375 RUM for three shots at a friends range. Even with an HS Precision stock and a radial brake it was more than I'd want to shoot with any regularity. Mainly because of the break it was effective in reducing felt recoil, but the concussion from the break was horrible.

I do agree you need to stretch it's legs or you'll get bored with it.
 
I shot the .375 RUM for three shots at a friends range. Even with an HS Precision stock and a radial brake it was more than I'd want to shoot with any regularity. Mainly because of the break it was effective in reducing felt recoil, but the concussion from the break was horrible.

I do agree you need to stretch it's legs or you'll get bored with it.
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That seems to be an issue with ports that are angled back a bit to help mitigate felt recoil--the one on my 338 LM is simply baffled straight out at 90 degrees. I've often wondered if there is an aggregate effect of "felt concussion" like there is with tinnitus.
 
I took a 7mmRM from a B&C sporter and put it in a Magpul Hunter, which has an aluminum rail bed. Shoots like a kitty and into 1/2".
 
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