You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
2 Dozen FTF With Winchester White Box!?!
- Thread starter SeniorXJ
- Start date
The reason being IMO the issue of light primer strikes has been around largely since Glock popularized the striker fired pistol.
Interesting guess, except the pistol I describe above is hammer-fired.
David
The reason being IMO the issue of light primer strikes has been around largely since Glock popularized the striker fired pistol.
You know what they say about opinions.
FWIW, judging the suitability of a firing mechanism by what is likely a malfunctioning weapon or at least a weapon in dire need of some servicing is pretty silly. Not to mention there are millions of striker fired pistols in service today without this problem.
Some more info to help this thread out:
The gun was detail stripped & clean after the first 100 rounds.
Mag safety was removed.
Every upgrade from Galloway precision is in it.
Everything that can or should be polished has been done.
I only grease the slide & barrel with Slide Glide.
I clean her every time before shooting a never used brand.
The striker body gets 1 drop of oil, rubbed in & wiped off leaving only a thin layer. I don't oil the striker spring inside.
All polishing including the stainless striker & striker body was done by me & everything was documented.
I took pics of all the work done above & can compare them to the striker now & there's no damage at all.
For reference, these 2 threads below were very helpful guides & I did most of what said in them:
RugerForum.com ? View topic - SR9 How-To (Multiple Inside) - Video Links Removed
RugerForum.com ? View topic - SR9/SR9c/SR40 Modifications and Accessories
I'm gonna go buy another 100 rounds of a brand I've used before & put em all down range as fast as the range will allow. With 6 mags holding 17 a pop, i'll be able to send another 100 rounds down range with 2 to spare. I've done this torture test before with great success. I may take a pause mid way, but either or, i'll find out if its my gun or the ammo!!
The gun was detail stripped & clean after the first 100 rounds.
Mag safety was removed.
Every upgrade from Galloway precision is in it.
Everything that can or should be polished has been done.
I only grease the slide & barrel with Slide Glide.
I clean her every time before shooting a never used brand.
The striker body gets 1 drop of oil, rubbed in & wiped off leaving only a thin layer. I don't oil the striker spring inside.
All polishing including the stainless striker & striker body was done by me & everything was documented.
I took pics of all the work done above & can compare them to the striker now & there's no damage at all.
For reference, these 2 threads below were very helpful guides & I did most of what said in them:
RugerForum.com ? View topic - SR9 How-To (Multiple Inside) - Video Links Removed
RugerForum.com ? View topic - SR9/SR9c/SR40 Modifications and Accessories
I'm gonna go buy another 100 rounds of a brand I've used before & put em all down range as fast as the range will allow. With 6 mags holding 17 a pop, i'll be able to send another 100 rounds down range with 2 to spare. I've done this torture test before with great success. I may take a pause mid way, but either or, i'll find out if its my gun or the ammo!!
Lighter striker spring?
I think it is bad advice to suggest someone experiment by modifying the safety mechanism of a gun.
David
I think it is bad advice to suggest someone experiment by modifying the safety mechanism of a gun.
David
I don't think he is. I think he's asking if the OP installed a lighter striker spring.
Tunnelrat, not sure what u mean by "All the lube" but I'll move along. If the striker body has been well polished & the plastic indicator replaced with a polished stainless of which the striker spring rides along, & the fact that I explained already how I lube the entire gun, I have no idea how you could say that...
Oh & the striker spring was replaced back to stock 600+ rounds ago cause I was dumb & cut a coil off, so yes, again, its a stock striker spring.
Oh & the striker spring was replaced back to stock 600+ rounds ago cause I was dumb & cut a coil off, so yes, again, its a stock striker spring.
Last edited:
Let me put it simply. Did you spray out the firing pin channel with a degreaser? Just answer that please as I think it has the potential to help, then llightly lube the striker and try again. You're reading way more into "all the lube" than was intended. This is not me being snarky or preachy, it's just internet text.
I personally think a 22% failure to fire rate for WWB is way too high, but you may have boxes from a bad lot. The issue here in terms of my typical suggestion to call Ruger is from the sounds of it you have replaced a lot of internal parts. If it isn't the ammo it could likely be one of those parts. Normally if you determined it wasn't the ammo I'd say call Ruger, but I'm not sure what Ruger will do with a heavily modified pistol. S&W for instance will remove all the aftermarket parts and return the pistol to stock and send the parts back with the pistol and Ruger may do the same. Liability wise S&W won't send back a pistol with aftermarket parts installed. If you tell them all this on the phone a customer service person could be a real pain and say you voided your warranty by doing this (although if I remember correctly Ruger does not have an explicit warranty, more an implied warranty that they almost always honor).
Another option might be to return the pistol to stock configuration and see if you still get the light strikes. If not, add the aftermarket parts until you find the culprit.
I personally think a 22% failure to fire rate for WWB is way too high, but you may have boxes from a bad lot. The issue here in terms of my typical suggestion to call Ruger is from the sounds of it you have replaced a lot of internal parts. If it isn't the ammo it could likely be one of those parts. Normally if you determined it wasn't the ammo I'd say call Ruger, but I'm not sure what Ruger will do with a heavily modified pistol. S&W for instance will remove all the aftermarket parts and return the pistol to stock and send the parts back with the pistol and Ruger may do the same. Liability wise S&W won't send back a pistol with aftermarket parts installed. If you tell them all this on the phone a customer service person could be a real pain and say you voided your warranty by doing this (although if I remember correctly Ruger does not have an explicit warranty, more an implied warranty that they almost always honor).
Another option might be to return the pistol to stock configuration and see if you still get the light strikes. If not, add the aftermarket parts until you find the culprit.
Last edited:
I'm not worried about polish, I'm worried about debris or lube slowing down the travel of the striker and causing the light strikes (it may seem counter-intuitive for lube to slow down moving parts but sometimes it can thicken or gather residue blown in through the breach face). Polishing helps with this but you honestly shouldn't need to polish it. I like a good aerosol such as Gun Scrubber to blow anything out and then I reapply lube as needed.
I added some suggestions in my previous post in case the ammo doesn't prove to be the culprit.
I added some suggestions in my previous post in case the ammo doesn't prove to be the culprit.
What you said was:
A field strip doesn't usually involve cleaning the striker channel, hence the question.
You also said this:
But again, no mention of the striker channel hence the question.
If you have confirmed it was clean while shooting then I would return the pistol to stock and see if the same problem occurs.
The weirdest part, a quick field strip & its the cleanest I've ever seen after 100 rounds down range. Hell, even most the grease was still red in color!!
A field strip doesn't usually involve cleaning the striker channel, hence the question.
You also said this:
The gun was detail stripped & clean after the first 100 rounds.
Mag safety was removed.
Every upgrade from Galloway precision is in it.
Everything that can or should be polished has been done.
I only grease the slide & barrel with Slide Glide.
I clean her every time before shooting a never used brand.
The striker body gets 1 drop of oil, rubbed in & wiped off leaving only a thin layer. I don't oil the striker spring inside.
All polishing including the stainless striker & striker body was done by me & everything was documented.
I took pics of all the work done above & can compare them to the striker now & there's no damage at all.
But again, no mention of the striker channel hence the question.
If you have confirmed it was clean while shooting then I would return the pistol to stock and see if the same problem occurs.
I suspect that the various upgrades have in some way made the pistol marginal with some primers. While changing the ammo may work, at least for a while, there would be no way of knowing without extensive (and expensive) testing if one ammo maker or another changed primer hardness, priming compound or in some other way turned out ammo to standard specs but which would not work in that gun. No way I would depend on that gun for serious purposes.
Jim
Jim
Dragline45
New member
Were you getting light strikes prior to the spring changes and polishing? Nothing against Galloway, but this wouldn't be the first time that springs they offered were causing light strikes in particular guns. I am also always wary when people start polishing the internals of a perfectly good working gun, as many people tend to go overboard and do more damage than good.
I cannot be more straight foward with my answers & im trying to reply to your highlighted quotes of mine which I "believe" your posting & asking out of order. "I know" your all trying to help, but its getting to complicated & counter productive. I cant do the quotes using my phone so i cant answer each question directly...
-it has never had a single ftf in 1100 rounds,
-I have never shot WWB prior to this,
-gun worked as good as it did stock then now,
-i posted 2 links that were guides to polishing & upgrades,
-all mods (& I use that word lightly) were done a while ago, -people mod guns to there liking, sights, lightr trigger, etc,
-i clean my Ruger be4 shooting ammo never shot be4,
-No debris, no over lubrication be4 & after shooting WWB,
-i usually take the striker out cuz its easy to do & inspect,
-and it was closer to 1 dozen then 2.
I'll double check anything i missed that ur asking for or trying to explain tomorrow. So once again, i hope that helps.
-it has never had a single ftf in 1100 rounds,
-I have never shot WWB prior to this,
-gun worked as good as it did stock then now,
-i posted 2 links that were guides to polishing & upgrades,
-all mods (& I use that word lightly) were done a while ago, -people mod guns to there liking, sights, lightr trigger, etc,
-i clean my Ruger be4 shooting ammo never shot be4,
-No debris, no over lubrication be4 & after shooting WWB,
-i usually take the striker out cuz its easy to do & inspect,
-and it was closer to 1 dozen then 2.
I'll double check anything i missed that ur asking for or trying to explain tomorrow. So once again, i hope that helps.
Last edited:
I cannot be more straight foward with my answers & the quotes of mine your posting are out of order.
I'm quoting straight from the ordered thread history...
Let's move passed that. We're getting stuck in the weeds.
all mods (& I use that word lightly) were done a while ago, -people mod guns to there liking, sights, lightr trigger, etc,
No one is saying you can't mod your gun. What they're saying is that those mods might be contributing to the problems you're experiencing. That's not out of line and could quite possibly be the case.
gun worked as good as it did stock then now,
You don't know that with regards to WWB. You said this was the first time using WWB. That would indicate you never shot WWB through the pistol when stock.
and it was closer to 1 dozen then 2.
Okay. Then there's the issue of the title of this thread. But let's move past that. Even 12 out of 100 would still be considered high.
The way I see it you have two options. Either never shoot WWB again, or try and diagnose why there was a problem. Were it me I'd want to know why, especially if this was a pistol I used to defend myself. If the gun is/was clean when firing as you said, then either it was a batch of ammo with very hard primers or something else was causing the light strikes. You could buy more WWB to see if it happens again (buying non WWB ammo will just confirm what you already know). Assuming that more WWB also has problems, I think returning the pistol to stock configuration has some merit as a diagnostic measure. If you didn't have more issues then it was likely a bad batch of ammo. Whether you want to do those things is completely up to you. There is nothing more I can do/suggest for you.
Last edited:
SeniorXJ said:I cannot be more straight foward with my answers & im trying to reply to your highlighted quotes of mine which I "believe" your posting & asking out of order. "I know" your all trying to help, but its getting to complicated & counter productive. I cant do the quotes using my phone so i cant answer each question directly...
-it has never had a single ftf in 1100 rounds,
-I have never shot WWB prior to this,
-gun worked as good as it did stock then now,
-i posted 2 links that were guides to polishing & upgrades,
-all mods (& I use that word lightly) were done a while ago, -people mod guns to there liking, sights, lightr trigger, etc,
-i clean my Ruger be4 shooting ammo never shot be4,
-No debris, no over lubrication be4 & after shooting WWB,
-i usually take the striker out cuz its easy to do & inspect,
-and it was closer to 1 dozen then 2.
I'll double check anything i missed that ur asking for or trying to explain tomorrow. So once again, i hope that helps.
Senior, unfortunately, I have to say that you didn't come across as "straightforward" as you thought you did. I followed this thread from the beginning, and you have added partial details in each reply. Your most recent post is the most comprehensive you have shared, which is greatly appreciated. That said, it seems like there is either a problem with the ammo (bad batch), or a problem with the relationship between the gun and the ammo (your gun and WWB don't like each other).
The easiest solution would be to shoot your ruger some more, and then in about a month, get another box of WWB. If you have no issues, mazel tov, it was a bum batch of ammo. If it doesn't work, then you know your gun doesn't like WWB ammo, and you pick another brand to shoot.
The difficult solution would be to return your gun to stock parts, and shoot some WWB. If it works, introduce 1 new aftermarket part, and try it again. Keep adding 1 new aftermarket part between rounds to try to determine the reason why your gun wouldn't take the WWB. If the gun won't work well with WWB even with all stock parts, then you know your ruger doesn't like WWB.
If it were my gun, I would just shoot Federal and enjoy it.
JimmyR said:I haven't personally heard anyone say that the SR9 doesn't like WWB, but that doesn't mean YOUR SR9 doesn't like WWB.
I would simply stick to other types of ammo in the same price range, be it Federal, BrassMazz, Perfecta, etc.