MarkGlazer
New member
So what's wrong with Hoppe's? I currently use it on 3 9mm pistols, a 9mm carbine and a 357 magnum without issue.
Why spend money when you don't need to?
Why spend money when you don't need to?
An oxymoron. Calculate what it would cost for a quart of Hoppe's lube and compare it to a quart of Mobile 1 5W-30 synthetic motor oil. Why spend money when you don't need to?So what's wrong with Hoppe's? I currently use it on 3 9mm pistols, a 9mm carbine and a 357 magnum without issue.
Why spend money when you don't need to?
Your use of grease could be fine. . .or maybe on a -30F day it could not be fine. . .On a semi auto, I won't risk it anymore. I'm not saying you are wrong, just that there are a lot of threads which start my gun won't run and end with removing grease, crud, etc.various said:. . . .grease. . .
dahermit said:An oxymoron. Calculate what it would cost for a quart of Hoppe's lube and compare it to a quart of Mobile 1 5W-30 synthetic motor oil. Why spend money when you don't need to?
Take your foot out of your mouth. I don't think that can be proven. What about a lazy person like me who might shoot their AR a fair amount(500 rounds over 6 months) and be too lazy to clean it?dahermit said:I will eat my socks if someone can disprove that it really does not matter what you use to lube a 1911, as long as it is cleaned at appropriate intervals and re-lubed frequently...it is not rocket surgery after all.
FWIW, Weapon Shield has an advantage a number of other lubricants don't. It's non-carcinogenic and basically non-toxic.
And that product would be ...?agtman said:On a 1911, I'd use what the Marines use to lube their M45A1 CQBPs.
If it's good enough for the 1911s the Marines take into combat, it's good enough for yours.
He wants his lube oil to last at least a month because after a month heI am looking for a good quality long lasting lubricant for my 1911. I shoot it, then clean and oil it. I shoot about once a month
Well than that solves it! That is good enough for me, the very best is semi-synthetic motor oil...what more proof does anyone need? Case closed, 'nuff said, absolutely irrefutable proof! Better that what the Marines use, better than what SEALS use. Anything else will result in worn-out, galled rails.Besides a good gun grease like Sentry's Hi-Slip...I've heard that the best oil is a semi-synthetic {half oil/half synthetic} motor oil.
I can't remember all the times when it got to forty-below and my 1911 froze up...well actually never because unless a gun is carried in an external holster and you are in the Arctic it is just never going to get that cold. Realistically, even in sub-zero, we carry (as you posted) under our clothing, from a heated house, to our heated car, into the heated store where no "freeze-up" is likely to happen even if you use a grease instead of an oil. The scenario is unlikely save for maybe a law enforcement person or military who is open carrying, not us real people.Oil will run out and down if the gun is carried. Under this circumstance I would use grease, so the lubricant stays in place. Some may tell you not to use grease as cold temps may effect functionality, but, with todays modern synthetic greases (Mobil 1 Blue) they operate in arctic environments...White lithium grease (a $2 tube will outlast your life) is essentially the same stuff the military uses as lubriplate. White lithium is fine as well, but does dry out and requires cleaning/reapplication over time. I believe RED grease is for fast moving stuff and GREEN for slow stuff life ball joints.
For carry guns, the BEST lubricant I have found that STAYS and makes the action feel like butter, not effected by temperature (and when you carry your own body heat keeps that gun from "freezing") is a product from CMD called Extreme Pressure Lube #3 - A concentrated center point lubricant.