MarkGlazer
New member
So what's wrong with Hoppe's? I currently use it on 3 9mm pistols, a 9mm carbine and a 357 magnum without issue.
Why spend money when you don't need to?
Why spend money when you don't need to?
1911 lubricant
- Thread starter kisamore
- Start date
An oxymoron. Calculate what it would cost for a quart of Hoppe's lube and compare it to a quart of Mobile 1 5W-30 synthetic motor oil. Why spend money when you don't need to?
(waiting for someone to interject the platitude, "Use lubes designed (SIC, "formulated"), for guns on guns, lubes designed for automobiles on automobiles.")
After reading many of the threads concerning "what lube to use", it has become evident that posters will recommend what they use themselves, usually without regard to any scientific tests. Should anyone care what someone states they use, without any credentials that qualify them as a lubrication expert? After all, the poster may be a new gun owner of all of six months experience.
I will eat my socks if someone can disprove that it really does not matter what you use to lube a 1911, as long as it is cleaned at appropriate intervals and re-lubed frequently...it is not rocket surgery after all.
Your use of grease could be fine. . .or maybe on a -30F day it could not be fine. . .On a semi auto, I won't risk it anymore. I'm not saying you are wrong, just that there are a lot of threads which start my gun won't run and end with removing grease, crud, etc.various said:
dahermit said:
I agree an this is probably a good solution for a gun lubricant. How does it do for removing carbon? lead? corrosion inhibitor?
Frog Lube and One Shot look good in this test, but is that related to lubing my 1911 at all? I did notice that Pensoil synthetic did rather poorly on the corrosion test. I would expect this. If your engine is in a salt spray environment, you are doing oil changes wrong! Engine oil has a huge lubrication component to the design, but corrosion should be based on a part being washed in oil and then held # days with a small percentage of condensation water on it.
Take your foot out of your mouth. I don't think that can be proven. What about a lazy person like medahermit said:
who might shoot their AR a fair amount(500 rounds over 6 months) and be too lazy to clean it?
I switched to grease from oil a few years ago and haven't looked back. I still use oil on the surface steel still but not as lubrication for major moving parts. For my firearms that I shoot (Springfield loaded 1911, izmash ak, swiss k31, Romanian tokarev, m44 mosin), I use hoppes elite oil on the springs, and small parts but use white lithium grease on anything of significance. My 1911 cost me 800 plus tax and through roughly 900 RDS has not malfunction one time. I use the two factory mags and a stainless kimber 8 rounder. I usually go 200 or so RDS between cleanings. The grease keeps friction down for a longer period of time than oil. Oil will get hot and dry up too
Aguila Blanca
Staff
And that product would be ...?agtman said:
Lube
I recommend Sentry Hi-Slip synthetic grease. It will not thicken at -75 below zero and lubes up to 700 degrees (from memory). Will not wash off in water. Approved for SEAL and Special Forces. I've used it for a few years now in conjunction with RemOil (I know, everyone hates RemOil.... but they are wrong (grin). The RemOil Teflon remains long after the oil has gone. The Sentry Hi-Slip comes in a large "Hypodermic Needle" applicator so it's easy to place it exactly where you wish.
The best thing about this combo is you can lube the gun then store it for many many months. Take it out and it will run like you lubed it ten minuets ago. I also think you could pretty much fire a weapon until it melts. And the lube would still work. Lube overall with RemOil. Put the Sentry Hi-Slip on rails and contact points on wear surfaces. I think the combo is unbeatable. But then again, what do I know? I'm just a shooter.
I recommend Sentry Hi-Slip synthetic grease. It will not thicken at -75 below zero and lubes up to 700 degrees (from memory). Will not wash off in water. Approved for SEAL and Special Forces. I've used it for a few years now in conjunction with RemOil (I know, everyone hates RemOil.... but they are wrong (grin). The RemOil Teflon remains long after the oil has gone. The Sentry Hi-Slip comes in a large "Hypodermic Needle" applicator so it's easy to place it exactly where you wish.
The best thing about this combo is you can lube the gun then store it for many many months. Take it out and it will run like you lubed it ten minuets ago. I also think you could pretty much fire a weapon until it melts. And the lube would still work. Lube overall with RemOil. Put the Sentry Hi-Slip on rails and contact points on wear surfaces. I think the combo is unbeatable. But then again, what do I know? I'm just a shooter.
walks with gun
New member
100% pure whale oil.
polyphemus
New member
OP writes:
shoots his gun and then he cleans it and # 9 is not sticking to the rails and is
leaking out.Or so it would appear.
What he's looking for would be something that's still there when he goes to use his pistol about once a month,he is not looking for high performance or heavy
duty all weather stress protection.He's only going to get confused by all those
specialized mysteriously initialed lubricants,what he's doing now doesn't work
that's why he wants advice,to solve his problem.Yet another pistol lube thread
is not bound to help.
He wants his lube oil to last at least a month because after a month he
shoots his gun and then he cleans it and # 9 is not sticking to the rails and is
leaking out.Or so it would appear.
What he's looking for would be something that's still there when he goes to use his pistol about once a month,he is not looking for high performance or heavy
duty all weather stress protection.He's only going to get confused by all those
specialized mysteriously initialed lubricants,what he's doing now doesn't work
that's why he wants advice,to solve his problem.Yet another pistol lube thread
is not bound to help.
Well than that solves it! That is good enough for me, the very best is semi-synthetic motor oil...what more proof does anyone need? Case closed, 'nuff said, absolutely irrefutable proof! Better that what the Marines use, better than what SEALS use. Anything else will result in worn-out, galled rails.
Gregory Gauvin
New member
^ agree. I've studied oils and greases in dept (bobistheoilguy) for various applications of lubricants, particularly in automotive fields, in all types of circumstances (sliding versus rotating, hi-speed versus low speed, high stress, temperature...etc)
I see a lot of overpriced lubricants specifically tailored for firearms to which the price is the gimmick. For a tiny bottle of Super-Duper Brand X in a 3oz tube/bottle, you could purchase 1 or maybe 2 quarts of synthetic motor oil which will work just a good and last more than your lifetime. As a matter of fact, just the residual oil left in much any quart of oil if left turned upside down overnight will yield enough oil to lube your 1911 for a year.
If range shooting is all you do, motor oil will work just dandy. I believe Bushmaster even recommends (or did at one time) 10w-30 on the bolt. Oil is must easier to clean after a range session than a grease, and thicker lubricants will attract more debris. Because the 1911 is "sliding" and not rotating, a thicker lubricant is preferred. I would opt to use a 50 weight motor oil (or better yet what I haven't tried but would probably work great is STP Oil Treatment / Lucas Oil Stabilizer). I actually fill a diabetic syringe with motor oil to utilize a pin point applicator.
Oil will run out and down if the gun is carried. Under this circumstance I would use grease, so the lubricant stays in place. Some may tell you not to use grease as cold temps may effect functionality, but, with todays modern synthetic greases (Mobil 1 Blue) they operate in arctic environments...White lithium grease (a $2 tube will outlast your life) is essentially the same stuff the military uses as lubriplate. White lithium is fine as well, but does dry out and requires cleaning/reapplication over time. I believe RED grease is for fast moving stuff and GREEN for slow stuff life ball joints.
For carry guns, the BEST lubricant I have found that STAYS and makes the action feel like butter, not effected by temperature (and when you carry your own body heat keeps that gun from "freezing") is a product from CMD called Extreme Pressure Lube #3 - A concentrated center point lubricant.
I see a lot of overpriced lubricants specifically tailored for firearms to which the price is the gimmick. For a tiny bottle of Super-Duper Brand X in a 3oz tube/bottle, you could purchase 1 or maybe 2 quarts of synthetic motor oil which will work just a good and last more than your lifetime. As a matter of fact, just the residual oil left in much any quart of oil if left turned upside down overnight will yield enough oil to lube your 1911 for a year.
If range shooting is all you do, motor oil will work just dandy. I believe Bushmaster even recommends (or did at one time) 10w-30 on the bolt. Oil is must easier to clean after a range session than a grease, and thicker lubricants will attract more debris. Because the 1911 is "sliding" and not rotating, a thicker lubricant is preferred. I would opt to use a 50 weight motor oil (or better yet what I haven't tried but would probably work great is STP Oil Treatment / Lucas Oil Stabilizer). I actually fill a diabetic syringe with motor oil to utilize a pin point applicator.
Oil will run out and down if the gun is carried. Under this circumstance I would use grease, so the lubricant stays in place. Some may tell you not to use grease as cold temps may effect functionality, but, with todays modern synthetic greases (Mobil 1 Blue) they operate in arctic environments...White lithium grease (a $2 tube will outlast your life) is essentially the same stuff the military uses as lubriplate. White lithium is fine as well, but does dry out and requires cleaning/reapplication over time. I believe RED grease is for fast moving stuff and GREEN for slow stuff life ball joints.
For carry guns, the BEST lubricant I have found that STAYS and makes the action feel like butter, not effected by temperature (and when you carry your own body heat keeps that gun from "freezing") is a product from CMD called Extreme Pressure Lube #3 - A concentrated center point lubricant.
I can't remember all the times when it got to forty-below and my 1911 froze up...well actually never because unless a gun is carried in an external holster and you are in the Arctic it is just never going to get that cold. Realistically, even in sub-zero, we carry (as you posted) under our clothing, from a heated house, to our heated car, into the heated store where no "freeze-up" is likely to happen even if you use a grease instead of an oil. The scenario is unlikely save for maybe a law enforcement person or military who is open carrying, not us real people.
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Dragline45
New member
Nothing beats a good moly grease as far as long lasting lubricant. I use Brownells Action Lube Plus. For gun oil I have tried them all and find MPRO7 to be the best, much thicker and longer lasting than most out there. I also found Hoppes Elite gun oil to be an excellent oil.