Young gun owner with some quite possibly stupid questions

K

krylon

Inactive
To start with, I'm sorry if I ask any redundant questions here. The forum search function isn't working for me for whatever reason. :(

I'm looking into buying my first (and quite possibly last) revolver. I'm 24, only started shooting about a year ago, and own a walther p22 (which, despite it's flaws, I'm fond of) and a yugo SKS (which came to me in great condition and is a plinkers dream). Recently I went to the range and shot .38s out of a friends S&W 686 and found myself falling in love.

So: I've decided to plunk down the money and get a revolver for myself, mostly for shooting targets but maybe for bedside someday. Seeing as how this'll be my first and last revolver, I plan on buying new unless something irresistible comes my way. Specifically I've been looking at the new S&W 520, which seems like it'd be a little lighter due to the titanium cylinder but still be hefty enough to still be able to hit targets (hence why I wouldn't bother with any of the more expensive scandium frames, despite briefly falling in love with the 327 before coming to my senses). The fact that it looks killer and won't break the bank also helps.

So, now that I have a somewhat stiff idea in my head, questions abound.
1. Anyone tried one of these out yet? Anyone have a compelling reason not to go this route?
2. I have no experience with S&Ws various frame revolvers (their selling point of being an "updated L-frame replacement for the well respected K-frame model 19 that is no longer in production" is greek to me). Would currently available 7 shot speedloaders designed for the 686 work with the 520? Do any surprises await for me after handling and enjoying a 686?
3. I'm aware that you can shoot .38 out of a .357, and I would likely usually do this at the range. My question is why are SOME revolvers (S&W or other brands) marketed as .38/.357 and some marketed as .357 only? Is there really any reason for this? I only ask because the 527 is classified as a .357 while other S&Ws are marketed as .38/.357, and I wanted to make absolutely sure there was no real reason for this before I plunked money down for a less versatile handgun than I wanted. Again, I know that asking the difference between .38 and .357 is a pretty common question, but I was curious and concerned as to this specific point.

Sorry to bore y'all with so much detail. Thought you might like a good story rather than 3 little dinky sentences, and thanks in advance for any kind words :D
 
Why only S&W?

If you can afford a S&W...go for it they are great guns.

I am a little biased but look into a Ruger GP100 4". Rock solid gun that will last forever and not totally drain your pocketbook.

Shoot .38sp out of it all day long and handle the hottest .357 rounds with no problem.

If I HAD to buy a S&W I would get a 686 4". Beautiful gun.
 
krylon, I don't know if this is the case, but the 520 being marketed as .357-only may have something to do with the two-piece barrel (or it may just be marketing to emphasize that this is "one tough revolver"). Your best bet is to ask Smith & Wesson directly or ask a stocking dealer.

Good luck with your choice, and good shooting!
 
Your questions are in no way redundant. Quite the opposite in fact. To the point at hand. The 520 is a modern day replacement for the famous Mod 19 which in S&W parlance is legendary. Both my son-in-law and I have 520's and they are an exceptional weapon.

Smith & Wesson identifies their frame sizes by means of letters ranging from "J" frame (quite small) to "N" frame (quite large). The K to L jargon means that the 520 is now built on a slightly larger and heavier frame (that's a good thing). The 7-shot speed loaders that work on the 686's will also work on the 520 - no problem there. I suspect that your liking for the 686 will be instantly transferred to a 520.

Anything built in 357 magnum will also chamber 38 special as well as 38 special +P rounds. The 357 is a slightly longer round than the 38's and, of course, is more powerful.

I suspect that if you go ahead and purchase the 520 you will be a satisfied customer for a long, long time.:)
 
Any gun that shoots .357 can also shoot .38 Spl. It will not damage the gun just remember that after shooting .38 clean the chambers before shooting .357 or the empty cases may stick when you go to eject them.

There are a wide variety of wheelguns for you to choose from. The best bet would be to go down to your local gunatorium or gun show and ask to handle a few. Ask, in the case of S&Ws which is a K frame, which an N or J so that you can see and feel the differences. Basically it's small, medium and large.

Local ranges sometimes allow you to rent out a gun. This is a way to see how they shoot and how they feel to you. Start up conversations with other shooters and often they will let you try out their guns.

Why a light frame gun? Generally these are useful for carry but sometime have the disadvantage of being a little painful on the shooter after a bit at the range. For a range and home defense piece a little weight is not a bad thing. It is also sometimes more comfortable to fire for awhile at the range, and practice is important. In the end it does come down to what feels best to you.

I doubt if you get a revolver that your first will be your last.

tipoc
 
I strongly advise against buying new period. Loo for good used revolvers. S&W M65/66s are excellent choicss in stainless steel. The M10/64 in 38 Special is a decent choice. Ruger GP-100s in 357 Magnum are fine. The best choice if you can find one is the Colt Trooper MKIII in 357 Magnum. You should be able to purchase any of the above for sub$400.00.
 
holy cow

As I suspected from reading other posts, there are some pretty smart and helpful people here!

Things I predicted might come up:
Tipoc: In terms of lightness, you hit the nail on the head for why I moved away from the 327. If I wanted something to carry and have for intimidation factor, that'd be perfect. But as it is for now, just target and maybe defense some day.
DairyCreek: It's great to hear from someone who owns one! I've been looking around the net and haven't found too much in the way of info about them.
MostToysWins: I think renting a ruger is in order sometime in the near future...
SirWilliam: See I almost added this as another question: why the heck don't I just buy a used 686? A good answer to this might be Tipoc's point that this likely, despite my protests, won't be my last revolver. Another good point is that 120$ might be a small price to pay for a newbie looking to just get started and who doesn't know the ins and outs of buying a used handgun. The local pawnshops are generally a little scary and I'm not exactly very good at bargaining. There are though a couple of gorgeous used revolvers at the local pawn shop that I've been looking at, particularly one S&W with oversized wood grips and a dark blue/gray (literally blue gray, like a cobalt) frame. Maybe that sucker is worthy of an entire other post all its own.

Finally: thank everyone for the advice on the .357/.38 discrepancy. I'll likely find a way to contact S&W directly just to satisfy my own curiousity. The local S&W dealer is a pawn shop that I think the only seemingly smart guy quit from, so beyond them special ordering anything, I don't expect them to be of too much help.
 
Buying a S&W revolver

Hello
It seems you are focused on a .357 for a carry and Bedstand gun.I certainly would NOT buy a new model due to the Fact there are too many good used ones out there.;) I am NOT a fan of the newer light weight models period. I had one and the frames are "SPRAY-PAINTED" and WILL loose the finish from carry.:barf: I am also NOT a lover of the new sidelock as well.:barf: If weight is NOT and issue I would suggest and older model 66 like pictured. The only issue I am aware of with this caliber is some of the newer revolver's S&W says NOT to fire the light weight bullets like 125 Grain. I am not sure of there reason but like my ole-66, as it eats what ever I feed it. ;) The newer titanium cylinders are also touchy when cleaning them, as S&W has coated the metal with yet another SPRAY paint to preserve and protect it..:rolleyes: Just a thought. Hammer It.

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The Only Thing Wrong

With what I saw in your first post was the assumption that this will be your only revolver. Don't be so blind as to believe this. I agree with the guys above.... you would be better served to find a good condition used one.. You can't beat S&W Model 19 or somethng close... Or a Ruger... 357 is nice because you can practice with 38's and then astound your friends with magnum loads... especially shooting at dusk or night.

to branch into the rifle... theme... if you like your SKS... look for a ruger Mini-30... you'll never regret it.
 
www.smith-wessonforum.com

for hours and hours of entertainment, knowledge and... more ways to spend your hard earned $...
 
Skip the scandium aluminium guns, and get a good old fashioned stainless steel revolver.

The only reason for any of the light metal guns is to make them easier to carry. I concealed carry a 642 which has an aluminium frame. All of the wear parts are stainless steel, the cylinder, barrel, and internals. The reason for the light frame is to make it easier to carry concealed.

If you are buying the gun as a shooter, it will wear better and shoot better with a stainless steel cylinder, and you can clean it however you like within reason.

The 686, 619 (adjustible sights?) are great choices for a new gun.
 
Seeing as how this'll be my first and last revolver, I plan on buying new unless something irresistible comes my way.
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There's no real reason as I see it to buy used. As long as you know how to check a revolver over (see thread at the top of this forum), you shouldn't have any problems with your gun. It takes a lot to wear a gun out and most of us will never do it in our lifetime. Also, one can often find just as good a gun at half the cost by being patient and buying used.
 
krylon
I'm looking into buying my first (and quite possibly last) revolver.
Click to expand...

Don't bet on that. Most people say that and even mean it at the time, but somehow they end up buying another one and then another one and another one..........Have fun.:)
 
About this being my last revolver:

Everyone is right: it is a little short sighted to assume this will be the last revolver, much less firearm, I ever buy. I am planning on shopping around now though and seeing what i can come up with, taking into account the reccomendations for buying used posted as a sticky at the head of this board.

The reason I'm wary about this is that every used revolver I've ever seen has been around the 400$ range. The gun I'm looking at is only about 150$ more, which to me would be acceptable for a new firearm.
I live in Tallahassee, Florida right now, and the local pawnshops are more or less the only businesses in town that have used guns. Their markups are generally absurd though, and the people who work there I don't exactly trust.

There is a pawnshop that's an authorized S&W dealer around the corner that's staffed by relatively OK seeming guys. I'm probably going to head over there Friday morning and go over their used stock with a fine tooth comb while also checking out how much ordering a 520 would come out to. Again, thanks so much to all of you for your advice and I'll be sure to stick around this board and tell y'all how it comes out.
 
The reason I'm wary about this is that every used revolver I've ever seen has been around the 400$ range.
Click to expand...

So buy them from somewhere else! I very rarely buy a gun "out of stock" at a gun store or pawn shop. I buy nearly everything from gunbroker.com or gunsamerica.com. Or from the Classifieds here or on the S&W Forums. Locally everything either costs too much or the selection is too limited. Figure out what you want and then start watching for it online. Have your transfer dealer all lined up. Most of the time you can find a dealer to do that for $20 or so. You save the money anyway since you pay the seller directly and that avoids the whole sales tax thing.

Gregg
 
Harvesting a USED revolver

Hello
I WATCHED a long time before coming across this Baby. The seller tried to sell it to another forum member, and explained it was a shooter grade. It had some minor scratches on the finish, and a few nights with Good ole-Flitz made them disapear. This gun averages the high five to mid six hundred range typically on gun boards or selling forums. I have exactely 300.00 in this SHOOTER grade revolver and am GLAD, I found it.Along with the revolver came a set of dies, Holster, 500 once fired caseings, and 1000 hollow point bullets. Also TWO pairs of grips. Best regards, Hammer It.
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